Are you sure about that? 
3.45 x 3.45 mm for both right? Unless I screwed something up (which is common).
The factory centering ring fit just right for the xpl2 so Iām happy
My builds rarely go together as smoothly as this one did.
You are talking about the package size, 3.45 x 3.45mm is the standard āXPā package size.
The die is the yellow part of the LED that actually lights up. The die of the XP-L2 is just about twice as large as the die of the XP-G2 (depending on which version of the XP-G2 you mean, Cree modified it a few times). This means that in the same flashlight the hotspot will be twice as large when you replace an XP-G2 with a XP-L2.
This is also shown be the higher maximum drive current in the datasheet.
Visual aid XP-L W2 de-domed XP-G2 de-domed
Big difference in Die sizeā¦but we know what you meantā¦ 
Ha, ha! I see now. Thanks for the clarification. :+1:
Thatās funny, I also thought the overall size of the XP-L2 same as XP-G2. Bringing this kind small detail is so educative. Footprint is the correct word, not die. So now I can say that XML has same footprint has XML2 but different die. Thanks for the reading!
In Cree parlance, the footprint is XM, XP, XR, XB, etc. The die size is L, G, E, etc.
So XP-L and XM-L2 actually use the same chip (the L2), but one is in the bigger XM casing and the other is in the trimmed XP casing (you can see the 4 āslicesā taken off the dome).
Thatās not even counting the XHPs, the MTs, etc.
What slice?
May I introduce BLF Q8 Janus:
2 Heads, one white, one with red, green, blue and amber LEDs, heads and color LEDs individually controllable.
The modified MCPCB with XP-E2 color LEDs, and my driver which is used in both heads. In the white head populated with FET + 7135, in the color head populated with 4 x 7135 for each LED. MCU is Attiny 841. Full ramping UI of course. The reflector bottom had to be grinded a bit to make room for the outer LED wire pad. Reversed MCPCB polarity (batt+ at the outer trace to keep grinding at a minimum).
Cut a solid 6mm brass rod and soldered a spring on one end in order to bring batt+ to the rear head. Used tape to isolate the rod and drilled a hole in the tail PCB.
The threads at the rear end of the battery tube are too short to reach the driver board so I made cut outs (for the PCB screws) to a copper ring and put this ring on top of the PCB.
Btw., this is how I program my Q8 drivers:
You are Darth Maul.
Actually my initial project name was ālightsaberā. 
Impressive, can you cap off either end and have it work as a single light or is it fixed in this dual config now?
:laughing: Very cool.
I put a Samsung L351D HICRI led in my D4 Emisar and M43 Meteor lights ;)
Itās only screwed and can be separated easily for 2 individual lights. I just unscrew the rear head and pull brass rod and copper ring out.
Howās the output and tint of the Samsung Emitters?
Iām curious about the beam, I donāt think Iāve ever read any review/tests with samsung emitters
With the medium amp draw from the meteor it seems like a pretty ideal light for those LEDs.