First Post, choosing between a TR-J12 and FandyFire L1

Well that pretty much decides that then :)

*pulls the trigger*

Well I got back off holiday today to find it had arrives whilst I was away - seems to be DOA though :(

Will have to have a play later and see what's up, looks nice apart from that, good build quality and even comes with a decent little carry pouch.

It needs decent batteries or it will trip the protection

I'm using the 2400mAh TrustFire 18650's with the flame design. They're protected so maybe it's tripping the protection on the cell itself.

Will have a go with some unprotected cells later (hopefully I have some) :)

I'm waiting on a Trustfire TR-J12 myself. Should be here in a couple of weeks.

Where did you get the TF Flames? You tried using 3 x 18650? Batteries fully charged and verified with DMM?

DealExtreme, have had them a few months and been using them successfully in other torches; http://www.dealextreme.com/p/trustfire-protected-18650-3-7v-true-2400mah-rechargeable-lithium-batteries-2-pack-20392

Tried both 3 and 2 cells with the same results (ie: with and without the extension tube). Shaking the torch there doesn't feel to be any movement, ie: I expect that contact is being made on the battery terminals.

Haven't checked the cells with a DMM but I charged them less than a week ago when I took them away with me on holiday as back-up cells. I'm pretty sure they're charged.

:)

Hmm...that sounds about right. Tried using a key as a bridge to make contact from the -ve terminal to the body tube?

Ah, good thinking!

Just tried with a paper clip, no joy. Tried with two cells in the main body and also three batteries with the extender in place. Also tried cleaning the threads (they're not very smooth but there was a little bit of grease on them).

When I watch very carefully I do get a very tiny spark, but very very tiny. So I guess this would suggest that maybe it is tripping the protection circuit on the cells before powering up the LED. I guess I'll find out in around an hour once I get back home :)

Sorry to hear that. If you have a DMM maybe you can check the current draw on the tail, on the 20A setting of course. There sometimes happen little shorts around the positive terminal, by a loose solder or bent spring. Also sometimes battery tube can’t make contact to the drivers negative pole. Try reversing the tube or feed the light with a 9v power supply to see if it is the mechanics or the electronics causing this. Some of my p60 hosts could need a few unscrew-screw of the head to let the springs free and make a proper contact to the body.

Sounds like it's the driver or something at the head end that could be creating a dead short. Don't try unprotected cells in the light.

Thanks guys - all great feedback and advice. I'll try later with a DMM to get a better idea of what's wrong. I'll not try unprotected cells until I've been able to verify there's no shorts or anything similar :)

So... I checked with the multimeter and my cells seem fine and the tailcap is working fine, gives me good readings throughout the body and to the head. I see no reason to suspect the threads or anything like that.

There is resistance across the head terminals (driver end) and so it doesn't look like a total short. I've tried with a different set of 2 cells (Ultrafire 2600mAh greens) and some AW/IC 2200mAh cells I had (only had 2 of each unfortunately, so could only do this test with 2 cells).

However, when I shake the head I can hear wobbling, so it seems like the driver board is loose and I suspect that's where the issue is. I'm unsure how to strip the light down any further though, I don't see any obvious way to get at the driver - any hints?

I've unscrewed the plastic end-cap piece, but aren't sure how to get further;

Pictures here;
http://t.co/rSIrcsqD
http://t.co/gXbZwrWm

Soldering here looks pretty hideous, where, if at all, should I apply +ve and -ve in order to test the connections? I'm presuming one of those outer rings should be attached to the body of the light? http://t.co/eKXRjL05

*EDIT* I consistently measure 0 ohms resistance across the outer of the copper rings and the body of the light, so I guess that means that connection is fine too and the problem is the driver board itself.... so how to get to the driver board? Are these things sealed?

Looking at the pic of the back of the head, are you saying you removed that plastic contact base to see the driver and there is bad soldering underneath it? If so, how about a pic of the board exposed? If what you show in the pic is as far as you got with it then use a pair of needle nose pliers with the tips inserted into the two holes and unscrew that nylon disk with the contact in the center. Your driver is under that.

If that disk simply applies pressure to the base of the driver then using the needle nosed pliers, try tightening that white nylon disk. It's possible that it's not pressing against the positive contact of the driver PCB.

Thanks - I removed that piece too, it's in the pic: http://t.co/eKXRjL05

Applying a current direct to the outer ring of the driver (visible in that pic) and to that central spring still give me no light, so I'm suspecting the driver itself is at fault - unsure how to get at it though, I see no obvious way to remove it?

That nylon disk is a great way to hide a hellacious soldering job!

Have you tried gripping the top of the reflector (as shown in your first pic) and unscrewing the entire drop-in from the head? Once you have the drop-in out you should be able to unsolder or grind off the solder holding the driver into the pill and pop the driver. Once that is exposed you might find that a wire from the driver to the LEDs is loose or a component on the board is fried/burnt. Have you contacted the seller before doing this process?

It's possible that one or more of the leads to (or from) the LEDs has been guillotined during assembly.

I've seen several multi-LED torches now with that problem. The bottom of the reflector, or the body pass-through (depending on torch) has a sharp edge - during assembly, the wiring is twisted across the sharp edge.

The light may even work initially, then fail after just a short while - or it may arrive DOA, as in your case.

Further examination will require complete dismantling of the torch, so time to break out the soldering iron, and some de-soldering braid.....


Yup, pretty hideous isn't it!

I thought my soldering was pretty ropey, but I'm feeling a lot better about myself after seeing this ;)

I did try that, but I couldn't get it to budge (I was trying to be gentle though as I wasn't sure if it was supposed to unscrew). Having just tried again, either I'm weaker than I thought or it doesn't want to move.

I've not contacted the seller (DealExtreme), I was hoping to DIY fix it rather than go through their painful returns process. But needs must I guess, perhaps need to make a decision now before I start unsoldering things :)

Thanks - any way to test this electrically? ie: rather than have to dis-assemble the whole thing?

I'm happy to do that if I need to, just not too clear on where to start. :)

Removing enough solder from the bottom of the contact disc to allow access to the driver is a good place to start.