I’ve done this sort of thing too many times with a belt sander and a file. I still do some things that way, believe it or not.
I personally would rather add crenelations than remove them, as I head stand all my lights and like being able to see if I’ve left one on in moon mode or something.
It’s good to see some old customs brought to life.
I am planning my first ‘Foybezel™’ with a stainless C8 bezel after reading and seeing these beauties and informational posts
He was a good guy, shame he up and left again…
comesayhifoy
I haven’t really posted a mod in this thread in a while. Simple mod, but I swapped the LED in my ThorFire TK05. The stock “neutral white” XP-G3 was as blue as could be. I bought some Samsung LH351D 5000K from DigiKey and reflowed one onto a filed-down copper dtp board. Took some pics while I was in there, then put it back together.
Nice, truly neutral light now. And a lot more lumens. By my estimate, 50% more while in turbo and 33% more medium. Just as long of a runtime, too. More pics and details in this thread, but I’ll share a few here.
click for larger images
Beamshots [before], left to right: ThorFire TK05 (XP-G3), Klarus Mi7 (XP-L HI), Convoy M1 (XP-L 5000K)
Beamshots [after], left to right: ThorFire TK05 (LH351D 5000K), Klarus Mi7 (XP-L HI), Convoy M1 (XP-L 5000K). I apologize for the white balance difference between this and the last shot. But in comparing the three LEDs, you get the idea.
Runtimes. Disclaimer: the TK05 was tested with a Wuben-wrapped 600mah 14500. The Mi7 was using an Sanyo 800mah 14500. I need to retest with like cells.
Swapped the driver in my s41s to the x5/x6 driver, and swapped in a lighted switch. Both from BG.
Would like a better lighted switch than a single LED, but it works.
Loving this driver
Astrolux S42 with lux rc 334 module ;)
Charging and 2color button is also working here
LEDs are Samsung l351D 5300K 70CRI
A nice one…must be very efficient?
I don't know yet, but shape of the beam is beautiful. I didn't like the original optics and UI
Interesting…did you have to sand down the driver or optics to fit into the S42?
Everything fits exellent, but i made a copper 2mm spacer, because original optics a little higher, than carlco.
Gotcha. I don’t like the beam pattern of the s42 optics with xp-l hi and maybe this is the solution. I think using the stock mcpcb as a spacer might work. Have to sand it down to expose the copper obviously.
After several hours my first real Mini C8 mod is finished. :)
The JAXMAN M8 (formerly known as Mini C8) is one of my absolute favourite light still today.
A long time ago I got some of these cheap LED bulbs at the german Aldi Süd (12 V GU5.3 with 38 ° beam angle).
This mod features this large coin spacer with 62 grams weight. :)
Some days ago I noticed that the lens of it fits perfectly in the M8 head and I got the idea of a Nichia triple for floody high CRI light.
It looks small even in comparison with a Thrunite TiS / Ti3:
The beam pattern is beautiful, with flood everywhere.
The saturation is incredibly high, even higher than of the Lumileds Luxeon MZ 5700 K 90CRI I tested recently. In direct comparison the tint of the used Nichia 219BT-V1 R9050 sw57 is a bit rosy and more on the blue side, but not too much. The XP-G3 shown here is definitly warmer than the stated 5700 K (and a lot greener!) despite it was ordered at Mouser:
The M8 is powered by a good old 105c, with custom firmware (3 modes + 1 moonlight), with 2,800 mAmps current. I didn't want a dragster, but a useful and durable light for everyday use and I have the option for increase the current sometime. But I'm satisfied with that, and on highest mode (no stepdown) the battery lasts for more than one hour.
Moon 1.5 Lumens + 3 cd
Low 17 Lumens + 30 cd
Mid 208 Lumens + 400 cd
High 890 lumens + 1,700 cd after 30 sec.
Also very useful as photography light. :)
Nice build koef3. It reminds me of an old Lumens mod. :question:
Well thanks to BLF. More interesting mods. S41 triple with 219c that came out of D4 v1. 5000k 80cri.
Used a 20mm Tpad mcpcb as a spacer under the noctigon.
Can anyone help me out, I have one of the astrolux/Blf 17mm “Lighted’ tail switches. today I decided to change the colour of the LEDs. so i desoldered the current two and replaced them with some smaller 0805s, but, only one will light up? i have changed the polarity of the other one and even changed the LED a few times but still no light to the second LED. do i need to change the resistor values or something?
cheers
Modded a Klarus Mi7 14500 flashlight with a BLF X6 driver modded with a attiny85 and a east92 board modded with NarsilMQ8 firmware.
That’s a lot of modding. 
I’m afraid that requires troubleshooting yourself where the bad connection is. Did you pre-tin the leds?
Apart from a bad connection, if the two leds are a different colour (especially if one is red and the other not (green, blue etc.), the voltage difference is too big and only the red one sucks all the current and lights up.
OK, thats probably it then as one is red, and it is the only one lighting. ill try a different colour and see if it helps.
Thanks for the info Djozz
Another way to solve it is finding a way to solder a separate resistor for each led, then a red and other colour led is no problem. I did that once for this board: currently they are behind a common resistor, but if you cut the long trace that goes under the switch and add a extra resistor for the now ‘cut-off’ led between led and switch-pad (sorry, no picture but I guess you can think it out), both leds will work. The two resistors must have twice the value then, to have about the same combined resistance as before. Or you can tweak the values to have the two leds light up evenly.
