Sofirn C8F host. 21700 C8F Available

I can understand going to the Noctigon for it’s 3 oz copper traces, have no idea why the awesome reflector was cut into a spacer in favor of the boring CUTE-3 optics though. The triple reflector is what makes the Sofirn a game changer. Much tighter beam from the reflector. But then, I’ve built so many dozens of CUTE-3 optic triples…

Just goes to show, different strokes for different folks!

Can someone recommend me a driver and mcpcb for 3 xpl hi configuration?
Btw do I need to by extra centering rings for the emitters?
What’s about the lense, is it anti reflective?

Here is my build.
I think lense is plain glass.

Which mcpcb?

Stock, it came with a host.

I am waiting on my C8F kits (bought TWO) and I'm a newbie-- but I have had great help from several dudes here.

I also was wondering about a driver, but after chatting with Lexel... given my 30Q batteries (and other good high drain batteries available) AND using (3) XP-L2 LEDs (bought from Arrow last week), this light can run true direct drive using just the rear switch (and get a draw of about 12-14 amps into these three LEDs- a nice fit!). I maybe should have gone with XPL-HI LEDs for my application (hunting = throw needed), but I'm going to try the XP-L2 for now and "see" what I get for my pig hunting rig (as I don't shoot pigs past 150 yards anyway).

Lexel sells a cool little C8 "FET tail switch board" (to use with a pressure switch of your choice) for a hunting rig. I am using these for my "Pig Rig" (my 6.8 SPC rifle I shoot pigs with at night) where there is NO loss (not even drain loss) and FULL output is the result (since higher current lights otherwise lose a LOT taking the trip down the 16" or thinner wire and back on your run-of-the-mill pressure switches out there).

So my "Rev A" plan (was)... Use these FET tailboards as my ONLY switch in my C8Fs and going DD (Direct Drive). I WAS originally building for hunting ONLY-- as I wanted NO modes- just FULL on and FULL off for hunting.

But... I was ALSO JUST told by Lexel (nice guy, I ask him way too many questions- poor guy ) that I can ALSO use his Narsil driver too. This driver can be set-up for ONE mode (on and off) or run other modes. I thought it through and going with this driver is probably a better option to running pure DD... especially if you want some protection features for the batteries. Lexel said I can hunt with his FET pressure switch (using just the on/off full Turbo mode), but when done hunting- replace the original rear switch (going back to stock) and THEN... this C8F with his Narsil driver would ALSO work with the side switch (in any mode). :THUMBS-UP:

So I'm now going to buy a pair of Lexel's drivers as they will give me a light that will be useful to me the other 10 months of the year I am not pig hunting ;).

All I have to do is build a few tail switches (I have the FET boards, just waiting on the C8Fs kits so I can get started) and I can use the ones that come with the kit, OR buy a spare tail switch or two (or in my case, I HOPE to use the spare C8s tail switches in my spare parts drawer for the FET mods-- but have to see IF THEY FIT this C8F first!) Come on Sofirn Boat! FULL speed ahead please!

Interesting read, not quite sure how you’ll be putting tail switches in the side-switch equipped C8F. There’s only a flat pcb with a spring on it in the ones I have, no room for a tail switch to be added without using a different tail cap. Curious to see how you proceed.

I tailstanded the empty L2 host in a bowl what has a little water in it about half tailcap high to keep the black end cool. And then used blowtorch to heat the bezel side.

I’d be lying if I said I knew what I was REALLY doing here :wink:

I’ve read ALL your posts on this light Dale, and they have been super helpful to a newbie like me. Truthfully, I’m going mostly on what Lexel is telling me will work for this config. As I read that he just got a C8F in recently… I assume he’s got me in good hands. But I’ll ask him about the tail cap room for sure.

One thing that I am learning is that the C8 “standard” is kinda iffy when it comes to different makers. I started off buying the eBay stuff (and was surprised at the quality of several C8 styled lights I’ve gotten over the years). My headlamp is going strong after 4 years at $14 shipped then— uses a C8 head, reflector and decent glass.

Anyway, I JUST ordered a KDlitker C8.2 in the 2600 lumen (med-white) model- GREAT little light BTW. But when I went to use my (generic) C8 tails switches I had off another light (Convoy, I think) the tail caps didn’t threat— what??? I thought ALL C8s had the SAME specs :person_facepalming:

So learning the hard way I guess… and peeing on the electric fence a few times as I go :confounded:

The stock switch cover is semi-transparent like on the GT.
You can replace the tube with Convoy. It is fully compatible.
Lexel can you make an Emisar D4-D1-like FET+1x7135 driver design in multiple diamters for E-switch flashlights? I will be happy with a 17mm which will be great for this host and one that fit a Skilhunt H03.
It would be great!

THAT is SOOOOOOO… COOL VozzV6! — I’m grabbing my weed burner when these Cf8s get here!!!

Don’t forget to remove all O-rings and clean off silicon grease from threads because it will burn on them.

The original C8F from Sofirn had a tail clicky and no side switch, the new one has the side switch and no tail clicky, I’m sure it could be arranged to use a different tail cap to get a switch back there… :wink:

I can confirm Convoy C8 battery tube and tail cap fit on the Sofirn C8F
In fact, i bought a Convoy C8 host just to swap the tube and tail cap, because i personally like the classic C8, where the tail cap design matches the head design, and i prefer the Convoy knurdled battery tube too.

So now i also have a Sofirn C8 host without any switch… :smiley:

When I started this light project (for my gun), I thought… “OK, ya… I have a great soldering station AND I’ve soldered up OpAmps for my classic old API studio preamps (about 40 solder points on a 1” x 1" board)… so this is going to be a piece of cake!" :sunglasses:

- WRONG!

** But, after a few DAYS and NIGHTS reading up on all this, I'm starting to get most of it, but I realize I've got a ways to go. But I'm going to be around because I love building my own things: guns, amps, microphones, recording studios (ahem), anyway I am READY to float me some LEDs and solder me up one of the lights (after breaking open every light I already have today!)

Today, I pulled out my XP-L2 LEDs and the first thing I thought was, "they gave me the wrong parts!" 3.45mm is TINY! Thankfully, I also have a good magnifier on my bench too.

You are wrong!
It is a twisty switch :smiley:

Haha… I’m about to have a C8F with TWO switches! (I’ll figure that out then I get there)

THANKS Jerommel for that GOOD bit of news! I HAVE a C8 clicky tail cap I can convert using some parts Lexel gave me along with a remote pressure switch/wire he also sent me. Good to know I can ALSO work with modding a standard C8 tail cap as needed for Lexel’s FET board.

I think the trick to all this is to buy about 5 C8s from several sources until I make enough mistakes :beer: to: 1) know what I’m doing (then), and 2) have a drawer FULL of parts that MIGHT work with the next thing to come along

BTW:
KDLITKER sold me a “C8” pressure/tail switch WITH my C8.2 light I got in the same order. Yep… another hard “C8” lesson: it doesn’t fit the C8.2! I emailed KDLITKER and he said the same “matter of factly”. To his credit, he is giving me a partial credit for a future order (and so he’ll GET a future order)— good guy so far!

Me too, me too!
I have the side switch of the Sofirn triple head and the tail “main” switch in the Convoy tail.
So that leaves me with a Sofirn single LED host with no switch, or rather a twisty, if you must…
I’ll drill a hole and put a switch in that Sofirn tail eventually.

Oooh…. OK!! :+1: . Thank you for that info ZozzV6… :wink:

Hey . And why did you take what I put the reflector on the gasket?
Or is it features of machine translation?
I like the flood light of the optician Ledil Cute , I just polished the lens of the triple.
I want to ask the BLF forum masters: - Can I use the BLF A6 driver under the electronic button ?