All caught up. I’m glad the FW3A thread is easier to keep up with though. Let’s keep it that way.
I’ve been using the FW3A for several weeks now, and I really like it. The tail e-switch gives the ergonomics of a clicky tail switch but with extra functionality. The body’s slim waist makes it comfortable to hold and easier to clip onto things. Its lumen output spans five orders of magnitude for all occasions. The firmware/UI is how I like it, without really having to make any significant compromises. There are little things to improve in the next prototype, but overall I really don’t have much to complain about.
My other lights (especially 1x18650) have been lonely ever since the FW3A showed up. About the only other light I’ve used lately is a BLF Q8, and that’s because its diffuser works really well with candle mode. I’m hoping I can find a diffuser wand for the FW3A too.
Oh, um, we’ll probably make a team account at some point, and chown the thread. There just hasn’t been a huge need for it yet, since production is still probably months away. There are still several things which need to be done before then… off the top of my head:
Host design needs some updates and at least one more set of prototypes.
Some internals need adjustment, like the brand of 7135 chips.
Emitter type needs to be decided.
I should probably finish the firmware.
Lumintop is busy with other projects.
Figure out logistics for purchases and shipping and such.
Agree with team account!! When the project gets on full speed, if The Miller keeps absent, it will be good to have several members that can pass “structured” information to the interested members!
BTW, this is the list on post #1. Probably it needs to be updated.
And I would add a pepinfaxera as part of the team - if he agrees to!!! - , because of the efforts done so far in keeping the list updated and verified!! He deserves an honorable mention on this too!
Two questions for you:
What are the differences between Anduril and Narsil?
What diffuser are you using for your Q8? (got one made for Fenix but it sits really loose. One medium shake and it comes off.)
Quite a few. The general concept is the same, smooth ramp plus mode group plus extras, but beyond that it’s pretty different. The code is completely new from scratch, ramping and mode group share a single UI, the mode group uses whatever parameters you want, the blinkies are more numerous and adjustable, thermal regulation is faster and too smooth to see, config options are mostly attached to the modes they affect instead of being all in one place, etc.
Dale sent me one made by ZozzV6. I don’t really know the details, but Zozz would. It’s a very tight fit; I actually had to sand it town a little to make it easier to put on.
The switch LED has three states — high, low, and off. During use (when the main emitters are on), it runs at high or low to match the brightness of the main emitters. While off, the switch LED uses user config values to decide what to do:
Regular “off” mode: High, low, or off.
Lockout mode: High, low, or off.
Other modes with an “off” state (momentary, muggle): Currently just off. (might change)
To change the switch LED config, go to lockout mode. It then has a few available actions:
Click or hold: Momentary moon.
Two clicks or click, hold: Momentary moon.
Three clicks: Change lockout mode switch brightness.
Click, click, hold: Change regular “off” mode switch brightness. Let go when it reaches the desired level.
Four clicks: Exit lockout mode.
So… if you want the switch to stay on most of the time (while off) but want it to turn off sometimes, you could set regular “off” to “low” and set lockout-mode “off” to “off”. Then simply lock the light with 4 clicks when you want the switch to turn off.