Lets remember that this is the GT support thread, lets try to keep it on topic for support issues as much as possible. I do not want this thread getting cluttered like the other thread.
I realize that sb has closed the other thread for people to calm down, but I am not convinced that is a good idea. Way better to keep things out in the open and not in the dark where it can fester into real problems. Also there are a lot of people on the fence about actually getting a refund and now they have no access to team members. I will wager this inability to get or give information will lead to a lot of PayPal disputes that would not have happened if it was not closed. I guess it really doesn’t matter to sb either way but Neal could have more problems because of it. Just my two cents
I realize that sb has closed the other thread for people to calm down, but I am not convinced that is a good idea. Way better to keep things out in the open and not in the dark where it can fester into real problems. Also there are a lot of people on the fence about actually getting a refund and now they have no access to team members. I will wager this inability to get or give information will lead to a lot of PayPal disputes that would not have happened if it was not closed. I guess it really doesn’t matter to sb either way but Neal could have more problems because of it. Just my two cents
The issue is that there is simply no other information for me to give at this point and until there is the thread is nothing but a bunch of people getting upset over rumors.
Under FAQ emitter and output
How do I get a cooler color? RMM offers a cooler tint
Richard swaps the LED 8$ + shipping back and force. You had to send him your GT LED-Board for this. http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1257836#comment-1257836
Thanks for the info pommie, teacher, Jason. It really is appreciated. I have strap wrenches that I put a half-hearted attempt into removing the head but to no avail. When I am physically up to it I will get more serious and am pretty confident that if others are getting it apart I will be able to.
Thanks for the info pommie, teacher, Jason. It really is appreciated. I have strap wrenches that I put a half-hearted attempt into removing the head but to no avail. When I am physically up to it I will get more serious and am pretty confident that if others are getting it apart I will be able to.
I used a vice to hold my light because I had one. If you don’t have a vice you can position the wrenches so that one is pressing down on your bed and you push the other wrench towards it. Here is how AlexGT did it.
AlexGT wrote:
I used 2 strap wrenches, my bed and my whole body weight to open the head… it wasn’t that bad!
Steps First attach 2 strap wrenches like this, make sure you tighten them up real good
Then put on the edge of the bed, the bed will keep the light from moving and slipping and lock one of the strap wrenches
Last, hold the head so it doesn’t move and use your whole body weight on the other strap wrench to open it, the switch assembly will slowly start turning
Done!
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Hello, Haven’t heard anything for awhile about my shipment of BLF GT w/batteries ..and news ?
Thanks.. #957 .. i think lol
This is not the place to ask, but I don’t see any difficulty with your order. It’s to the US, but I see you asked for it to be shipped via registered mail. That may be why it was not shipped earlier. All registered mail shipments were delayed. Currently they are waiting on the next batch of reflectors to ship out more lights.
Unless you really want registered mail, and I’m not sure why you would, I think you should send Neal an email or PM with your shipping and receipt info saying you want to switch to DHL.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Hello : Thanks for answering well my only 2 choices were registered or DHL. Living here in Indiana for 9 years I have never seen a DHL truck or anything, stores,commercials anything. Didn’t know what to choose. I have never dealt with DHL ever in my life.. Thanks
I have a question regarding the Lumintop sticker in the tail cap, the one with the QR code that takes you to Lumintops site.
Some many millions of posts ago I read some posts regarding this sticker and removing it to disassembly the tail cap and there was a comment I recall about why that sticker was even in there and I don’t recall if this was a serious comment or not but someone or someone’s said it also served as a insulator to prevent accidental shorts from the carrier.
My question is, was that a serious comment, since I have now officially buggered up both my stickers fixing the swivels and if the comment about a possibility of a short from the carriers somehow causing a short, which I personally don’t see possible, should I take this serious then and make some plastic thin disks to use as potential short protectors or whatever you’d like to call them..??
I am looking for facts, not hypothetical conversation, of course if no one actually is certain about this there is one way that someone could take one for the team and simply loaded both loaded carriers and before screwing on the tail cap simply place a copper penny on the end of the last carrier on the center piece and then screw the tail cap on, but please video tape the results as this might be amusing at the least.
Thank You
Yes, the sticker is there to reduce the chance of a short if the carrier is inserted backwards. It is not a real good chance it would happen without it but there is a chance and a sticker was simple insurance.
You can put another stick or other item there to serve the same purpose or just be careful to not insert the carrier backwards.
Thank you TA, couldn’t have asked for a more precise and accurate answer by the most knowledgeable, greatly appreciated,
So the key is putting the carriers in backwards is the concern, now that I can see could be a problem and considering that recently I blew up a light by inserting a cell backwards, for the first time ever, that damage from a single cell was amazing, so couldn’t imagine the consequence here so I’ll be using thin plastic disks and a dab of hot glue to hold it in place.
Thank you sir..!
Yes, the sticker is there to reduce the chance of a short if the carrier is inserted backwards. It is not a real good chance it would happen without it but there is a chance and a sticker was simple insurance.
You can put another stick or other item there to serve the same purpose or just be careful to not insert the carrier backwards.
Dang it! I removed it and threw it away when disassembling the tail cap to clean and lube the O-ring of the rotating lanyard ring thingie…
Maybe I will stick the User interface paper with tape or velcro…
Exactly, basically thats a direct short from + from carrier to – (housing)
But since i dont have my GT yet, isn’t the inside of the cap anodized?
Offcourse, insulation will be much more safe.
Exactly, basically thats a direct short from + from carrier to – (housing)
But since i dont have my GT yet, isn’t the inside of the cap anodized?
Offcourse, insulation will be much more safe.
Glad I decided to potentially embarrass myself with what I thought was a rather stupid question, always like to know before I make a stupid mistake, the part I didn’t know was the inserting the carriers backwards being the reason, now that made sense,
It’s still there , you just have to go back a few pages.
Ok thanks,I’ve searched 5 page’s back and didn’t find it..
Important information like that should be more transparent,even if thread is locked,otherwise we will see lots of refund request
It’s still there , you just have to go back a few pages.
Ok thanks,I’ve searched 5 page’s back and didn’t find it..
Important information like that should be more transparent,even if thread is locked,otherwise we will see lots of refund request
How are you guys getting “7 pages”?
On the left side of the screen is a link that shows all your subscribed threads. Just click it and it’s easy to find.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
I plan to have the thread unlocked tomorrow. I was busy today and knew there would be a lot of posts when it is unlocked and wanted to be available to answer any questions.
Someone is already ripping off the GT? Interesting.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Lets remember that this is the GT support thread, lets try to keep it on topic for support issues as much as possible. I do not want this thread getting cluttered like the other thread.
You can talk about this other light here: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1272284#comment-1272284
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
I realize that sb has closed the other thread for people to calm down, but I am not convinced that is a good idea. Way better to keep things out in the open and not in the dark where it can fester into real problems. Also there are a lot of people on the fence about actually getting a refund and now they have no access to team members. I will wager this inability to get or give information will lead to a lot of PayPal disputes that would not have happened if it was not closed. I guess it really doesn’t matter to sb either way but Neal could have more problems because of it. Just my two cents
The issue is that there is simply no other information for me to give at this point and until there is the thread is nothing but a bunch of people getting upset over rumors.
When that changes the thread will reopen.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
A few suggestions to add:
Under FAQ emitter and output
How do I get a cooler color?
RMM offers a cooler tint
Richard swaps the LED 8$ + shipping back and force. You had to send him your GT LED-Board for this.
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1257836#comment-1257836
Under accessories
LensCoat Hoodies
(seems to be a bit better alternative to Op/Techs.)
Has a front disc in a pouch. It offers much better impact protection, fits better, and the rigid front keeps the hood from slipping around.
The XXL size fits better than the XL for the GT
https://www.amazon.com/LensCoat-LCH2XLBK-Hoodie-Large-Black/dp/B0087N28Y8/
Q:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1262819#comment-1262819 (around this post)
under accessories
Fabric Shrink Tube on the battery tube
please link to my next post, it contains a summery from different posts.
Fabric Shrink Tube
Fabric shrink tube on the battery tube
Picture and whole idea is from KawiBoy1428
From here http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1271136#comment-1271136
KawiBoy: How to aplicate Fabric Shrink
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1271167#comment-1271167
Lot of heat with a burner, heat gun is not enough.
Where to buy
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/819871#comment-819871
Jegs is probably a better place to buy it. The GT battery tube is 2.25” in diameter. Jegs sells it in 6’ lengths at 2 3/8 size for $20 bucks.
http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Fabric-Heat-Shrink-...
Fabric heat shrink tubing
Stoff Schrumpfschlauch
abrasive resistant, diesel, oil, etc.
As grip for battery tubes.
Exact match to : Tyco Raychem HT5000, Alpha Wire FIT FABRIC
https://buyheatshrink.com/heatshrinktubing/heat-shrink-fabric.php
Other tubing:
what to use? Shrink Selector
https://buyheatshrink.com/heatshrinktubing/heat-shrink-selector.php#search
textured, different surfaces
For handles or organisation your equipment
https://buyheatshrink.com/heatshrinktubing/textured-grip-heat-shrink-tub...
Special tubing
clear with text, diesel resistance, with glue, 4:1 shrink, etc
https://buyheatshrink.com/heatshrinktubing/****
Those are excellent suggestions & links joechina, thank you.
…..
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Jegs is probably a better place to buy it. The GT battery tube is 2.25” in diameter. Jegs sells it in 6’ lengths at 2 3/8 size for $20 bucks.
Thanks for the info pommie, teacher, Jason. It really is appreciated. I have strap wrenches that I put a half-hearted attempt into removing the head but to no avail. When I am physically up to it I will get more serious and am pretty confident that if others are getting it apart I will be able to.
I used a vice to hold my light because I had one. If you don’t have a vice you can position the wrenches so that one is pressing down on your bed and you push the other wrench towards it. Here is how AlexGT did it.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Hello, Haven’t heard anything for awhile about my shipment of BLF GT w/batteries ..and news ?
Thanks.. #957 .. i think lol
This is not the place to ask, but I don’t see any difficulty with your order. It’s to the US, but I see you asked for it to be shipped via registered mail. That may be why it was not shipped earlier. All registered mail shipments were delayed. Currently they are waiting on the next batch of reflectors to ship out more lights.
Unless you really want registered mail, and I’m not sure why you would, I think you should send Neal an email or PM with your shipping and receipt info saying you want to switch to DHL.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Hello : Thanks for answering well my only 2 choices were registered or DHL. Living here in Indiana for 9 years I have never seen a DHL truck or anything, stores,commercials anything. Didn’t know what to choose. I have never dealt with DHL ever in my life.. Thanks
I have a question regarding the Lumintop sticker in the tail cap, the one with the QR code that takes you to Lumintops site.
Some many millions of posts ago I read some posts regarding this sticker and removing it to disassembly the tail cap and there was a comment I recall about why that sticker was even in there and I don’t recall if this was a serious comment or not but someone or someone’s said it also served as a insulator to prevent accidental shorts from the carrier.
My question is, was that a serious comment, since I have now officially buggered up both my stickers fixing the swivels and if the comment about a possibility of a short from the carriers somehow causing a short, which I personally don’t see possible, should I take this serious then and make some plastic thin disks to use as potential short protectors or whatever you’d like to call them..??
I am looking for facts, not hypothetical conversation, of course if no one actually is certain about this there is one way that someone could take one for the team and simply loaded both loaded carriers and before screwing on the tail cap simply place a copper penny on the end of the last carrier on the center piece and then screw the tail cap on, but please video tape the results as this might be amusing at the least.
Thank You
Yes, the sticker is there to reduce the chance of a short if the carrier is inserted backwards. It is not a real good chance it would happen without it but there is a chance and a sticker was simple insurance.
You can put another stick or other item there to serve the same purpose or just be careful to not insert the carrier backwards.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Thank you TA, couldn’t have asked for a more precise and accurate answer by the most knowledgeable, greatly appreciated,
So the key is putting the carriers in backwards is the concern, now that I can see could be a problem and considering that recently I blew up a light by inserting a cell backwards, for the first time ever, that damage from a single cell was amazing, so couldn’t imagine the consequence here so I’ll be using thin plastic disks and a dab of hot glue to hold it in place.
Thank you sir..!
Dang it! I removed it and threw it away when disassembling the tail cap to clean and lube the O-ring of the rotating lanyard ring thingie…
Maybe I will stick the User interface paper with tape or velcro…
Or cut out a round piece of black ducttape
WTB: Jetbeam TCR-1 or Sunwayman V10R Ti
Thnx, that’s another option…
Maybe they should add a “Risk of short circuit, DO NOT REMOVE STICKER” to that sticker lettering for dummies like me ha ha ha!
So just to understand this more, Would the short circuit be from the center button of the battery carrier if inserted backwards, right?
Exactly, basically thats a direct short from + from carrier to – (housing)
But since i dont have my GT yet, isn’t the inside of the cap anodized?
Offcourse, insulation will be much more safe.
WTB: Jetbeam TCR-1 or Sunwayman V10R Ti
Yes it is anodized.
Glad I decided to potentially embarrass myself with what I thought was a rather stupid question, always like to know before I make a stupid mistake, the part I didn’t know was the inserting the carriers backwards being the reason, now that made sense,
Where is the original GT thread? I know it’s locked , but why is moved from the list?
How the he’ll people who waits will see that TA updated OP with new information about shipping with slower rate option without paying extra money??
It’s still there , you just have to go back a few pages.
Page 7 at the moment.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/50303
Ok thanks,I’ve searched 5 page’s back and didn’t find it..
Important information like that should be more transparent,even if thread is locked,otherwise we will see lots of refund request
How are you guys getting “7 pages”?
On the left side of the screen is a link that shows all your subscribed threads. Just click it and it’s easy to find.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Here is a link to it also.
TA’s latest update was this morning, 3 February; at 0936.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/50303
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
I plan to have the thread unlocked tomorrow. I was busy today and knew there would be a lot of posts when it is unlocked and wanted to be available to answer any questions.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Pages