Those many pictures confused my eyes. Yes, it’s even closer at only 0,0004
- Clemence
Hi Maukka,
Do you think now Nichia is using TM30 as their reference?
- Clemence
Just to add to the soldering discussion:
For soldering wires to the MCPCB pads, I use a faulty 60W soldering iron.
It doesn’t stop heating, keeps going hotter and hotter, until it glows dark red (you can see it when you turn the lights off). When you then touch some solder wire, the solder evaporates or something, at least it’s not on the soldering tip.
But holding the tip on the mcpcb, and then adding solder works perfectly, like working on a normal pcb.
I believe the Rfx00 rank is just their own nomenclature and nothing to do with the TM30 Rf/Rg. The Ra, R9-R15 are just part of the CRI CIE method.
You just made a portable hot plate(tip) hahaha
- Clemence
thanks.
Thanks for clarifying. I also notice the 3 steps Macadam Optisolis adheres closer to the BBL than earlier Nichias.
As a side note: looks like the Optisolis use two different blue pumps (or violet), 420nm for CW and 440nm for WW
- Clemence
I received my sm203 E21A today and immediately put it in an S2+, together with a 4x7135 biscotti driver. The reflow went well and soldering the wires was hard (as expected), I had to hold my 60W soldering iron on the pcb until the whole pill heated up.
The tint is not as orange as I thought it would be, but it is the warmest I’ve seen yet from a led and it’s very easy on the eyes, I think this will be my bedside lamp from now on. The beam shape with an orange peel reflector is pretty good.
Some pics (tint is warmer in reality):
Spent an hour playing with the 3k, 4k and 5k e21s. Somehow the soldering just went easily this time.
Now I can say that the funny patterns of tint shift I reported earlier were not real. Each cct has very visible tint shift. On the other hand, it is much less of a problem to me as compared to that of 219b 9080. First, the shift is from neutral to green rather than from rosy to green, and this is much less annoying. Second, the green rim starts developing considerably farther from axis, so it would be better cut off in a mule head.
Overall, I am very pleased with the 3k and 5k, not that much withthe 4k but I think this is just me. I just prefer either incand like or true daylight tints.
Will be ordering the 6.5k and 2k versions right after I got the incoming drivers and finalize the host.
Clemence, thanks much again for making these leds and the boards available!
How does the quad E21 look in reflectors? Considering putting one in my L2 but not sure if I will get a donut hole or not.
Clemence, any chance you could bring back the sw40 219B?
Will work okay as long as the optic are either faceted TIR or OP reflector
- Clemence
Yes later next month with the next shipment
- Clemence
Wow, that’s great! Thanks.
Have you tried a quad E21A in the Armytek Prime yet?
EDIT: Ooops sorry, you meant Armytek Prime. No I haven’t 
Currently too busy soldering those MCPCBs. Time spent to solder a VR16SP4 equals to soldering 20pcs Sinkpads or Noctigons
- Clemence
ArmyTek Wizard Pro XM-L2
Nichia E21A 6500K R9080 & 5000K R9080
Next mod on the right……
:+1: :+1:
And how is the tint? I have a few of the E21A 6500K R9080 leds but have not used them yet.
Jos, did the 2000K packet arrived? The last 6500K shipment was relatively fast.
- Clemence
maukka’s test
