C8 build with XHP50.2 in C8 with LD-B4HV 6A driver. It's bright, ceiling bounce shows 275lux, all my XM-L2/XP-L builds have 110-120lux, so this light should have ~3300-3500lm OTF. But tint/corona is absolutely terrible! Worst tint I've ever seen, and also there is annoying purple cross in center of the beam with smooth reflector, which becomes purple spot at larger distances.
Few build details:
LED is on mosX, and because NTC connection must be with 2 wires, NTC is soldered as in picture, other wire is then soldered directly on free NTC pad.
I soldered power wires in wrong direction,but i was to lazy to correct that, it works fine this way:)
^ my best XHP50.2 build is with a KDIY F8 host and a 5700K 90 CRI XHP50.2, so a heavy OP reflector and a thick phosfor layer over the led. The beam does show tint shift but it is not so obvious that it is annoying, even not for a flashaholic.
The beam of the XHP70.2 (80CRI 5000K) in my Convoy L6 with smooth reflector looks very good btw, you can tell that it is a new generation Cree led if you look for it but the beam is fine anyway.
(but if you have an OCD for both tint, CRI and beam, Cree is not for you )
In general Convoy S7 was my most used light since I built it almost 4y ago. It had XM-L2 U2 1D paired with nanjg 105c twin group with 12x AMC7135s and HE2. Today it got upgraded with blf 17dd+1 driver, AWG22 wires as well as bypasses with same wires, XP-L2 V6 3D, AR lens, brand new switch and VTC6 battery. I saw it pulling 8A and its bright for sure although tint is not up to my liking but probably I will leave it as is since I like it better than SST-40 which I also tried in it .
What I found interesting is that old bypass broke even though I use blob technique. Probably because everything is very tightly spaced inside tube.
Newkie Brown used to be my favorite beer when I lived in England for a year in the eighties. Nowadays I can buy it even here in Holland, in fact I believe it is even brewn here.
Thatâs pretty sweet. I imagine it would look amazing if someone could make (3d print?) the center piece of the switch out of a clear material.
I love lit tailswitches and the metal switches, but have never been satisfied with just using the clear gasket on the metal switches. It just doesnât let enough light through.
I have used an old cotton T-shirt together with Brasso
The finish of this flashlight is not 100% smooth, as you can see on the image
It came that way actually, but it is not very well visible on the first picture with the patina on it.