Dale, this may have been brought up already, was this statement you posted way earlier in this thread a mistake? (post #81) I only see the C8A with XP-L2.
This was pointed out in another thread and I wanted to clear up any confusion, including my own.
Are you asking about the early version of the C8F?
It had no side switch. Had the aluminum mcpcb. Had xpg3’s. Had a rear tail switch.
They don’t sell that version anymore as they tended to burn up the emitters.
They redesigned it to what you see today. I wish they had changed the name to signify the difference, but they are both called the C8F. Hopefully everyone will forget about the first version.
No I’m not asking about the C8F v1 (I have both v1 & v2)
My question for Dale was for his statement (I put in bold and underline) in his earlier post (post#81) where he stated that the “NEW” C8F comes with XP-L2’s. But as far as I know it didn’t, only regular XPL. Unless I missed something.
.
I’ll edit out the first part of his quote in my post to avoid this kind of confusion in what I’m asking about.
Oh. Okay.
Yeah, Dale made a mistake in saying that. It comes with xpl’s.
I’m sure he’ll be a long soon to give more details.
See his review over here.
Just FYI I have the XPL2’s in mine as well (built from a host, not from Sofrin) and the few hundred lumens increase comes with a yellow corona trade off. You aren’t missing anything unless all you care about is MORE POWER!!
Did you swap to a better quality FET to get even more output? The one Sofrin uses is not so efficient.
It’s a MTN fet+1
Doh. :person_facepalming:
The host does not come with driver. I forgot.
I am still a novice when it comes to building lights (so far built a 85cri-nw with Convoy S2+ and a cyan with Convoy M1). I am in the middle of building a triple r9080sw45 219b (thanks clemence!) using this host. I plan to run it at a conservative 2A (I hate turbo modes and my country has warm climate), and the experience so far has been daunting.
I couldn’t use Sofirn’s fet driver as the current would be too high. So I thought I would go with a Nanjg 105C. Could not afford a Pomona soic clip, so hand soldered the attiny and flashed momentary star firmware with some modifications. Now the thick driver retaining ring of this host refuses to fit over (the 2x7135 heatsink tabs on the backside of the driver obstruct the ring). So I must manage this somehow using excess solder. And the spring of the 105C is too short, so I have to buy some new springs :(.
The light engine part is complete though, but that was not easy either. For that I first reflowed the 219s to the dtp board, then attached wires, then screwed on the reflector to the board (this must not be too tight), then applied arctic alumina to the pill, then pushed the reflector-dtp-wires assembly inside (making sure the wires come out properly through the holes to the other side), then tightened the bezel and finally screwed on the center screw (this must be tight for good thermal transfer) going through thr reflector.
What are you doing? You keep bringing this thread up to the top of the list with this post why?
How would that be possible with only 2 posts? ??? I don’t understand.
That’s why I asked, “what are you doing”?
Unless there was a glitch in the system? Kept coming up as a new post? I read the same post 4-5 times and refreshed in between by hitting Recent Posts….
With only one post in this thread...
Maybe t18d16 keeps on editing their post?
I did not know it works like this. I am not a native English speaker, so I edited incorrect grammar multiple times, sorry guys.
And I did hit the edit button each time, not the reply button, like this time.
Don't worry about it. 
I sometimes edit my posts many, many times when I find small errors.
The host is a bit tricky to put together but i’m surprised you needed a longer spring. Is the driver sitting in the usual spot since you couldnt use the retaining ring or did you solder it further back? In other lights sometimes people just take some material off the inside of the retaining ring to make room if it’s close.
No problem. :+1: …… Welcome to BLF!! 
+1
I edit the crap out of my posts… My BLF account has this weird bug, it automatically edits my posts with a lot of mistakes so I keep having to go in and correct them 
Thank you. Whatever flashlights I have built would not be possible without this forum.
I have not soldered the 4 wires to the driver board yet, but just eyeballed that the factory spring would just touch my flat top cells (spring begins where the threads just end), but I will double check.
EDIT1: I was wrong! The shorter spring also works. And I have completed building this flashlight. While light output from the 219B triple is average at 2.4A, it actually renders things better than sunlight in red region (tested with wooden doors, skin, tongue, red multimeter leads, red buckets). Totally puts my 85cri Cree T5-5D1 to shame, which despite having a rosy tint looks orangey. Thank you JohnnyC for writing the awesome firmware (star momentary 1.6) that I used in this light.
EDIT2: If a beginner wants to repurpose Nanjg driver like me, please do not use solid core wires as they are not flexible, you may have a hard time pushing the driver down.