Sofirn C8F host. 21700 C8F Available

No Iā€™m not asking about the C8F v1 (I have both v1 & v2)

My question for Dale was for his statement (I put in bold and underline) in his earlier post (post#81) where he stated that the ā€œNEWā€ C8F comes with XP-L2ā€™s. But as far as I know it didnā€™t, only regular XPL. Unless I missed something.

.

Iā€™ll edit out the first part of his quote in my post to avoid this kind of confusion in what Iā€™m asking about.

Oh. Okay.

Yeah, Dale made a mistake in saying that. It comes with xplā€™s.

Iā€™m sure heā€™ll be a long soon to give more details.

See his review over here.

Just FYI I have the XPL2ā€™s in mine as well (built from a host, not from Sofrin) and the few hundred lumens increase comes with a yellow corona trade off. You arenā€™t missing anything unless all you care about is MORE POWER!!

Did you swap to a better quality FET to get even more output? The one Sofrin uses is not so efficient.

Itā€™s a MTN fet+1

Doh. :person_facepalming:

The host does not come with driver. I forgot.

I am still a novice when it comes to building lights (so far built a 85cri-nw with Convoy S2+ and a cyan with Convoy M1). I am in the middle of building a triple r9080sw45 219b (thanks clemence!) using this host. I plan to run it at a conservative 2A (I hate turbo modes and my country has warm climate), and the experience so far has been daunting.

I couldnā€™t use Sofirnā€™s fet driver as the current would be too high. So I thought I would go with a Nanjg 105C. Could not afford a Pomona soic clip, so hand soldered the attiny and flashed momentary star firmware with some modifications. Now the thick driver retaining ring of this host refuses to fit over (the 2x7135 heatsink tabs on the backside of the driver obstruct the ring). So I must manage this somehow using excess solder. And the spring of the 105C is too short, so I have to buy some new springs :(.

The light engine part is complete though, but that was not easy either. For that I first reflowed the 219s to the dtp board, then attached wires, then screwed on the reflector to the board (this must not be too tight), then applied arctic alumina to the pill, then pushed the reflector-dtp-wires assembly inside (making sure the wires come out properly through the holes to the other side), then tightened the bezel and finally screwed on the center screw (this must be tight for good thermal transfer) going through thr reflector.

What are you doing? You keep bringing this thread up to the top of the list with this post why?

How would that be possible with only 2 posts? ??? I donā€™t understand.

Thatā€™s why I asked, ā€œwhat are you doingā€?

Unless there was a glitch in the system? Kept coming up as a new post? I read the same post 4-5 times and refreshed in between by hitting Recent Postsā€¦.

With only one post in this thread...

Maybe t18d16 keeps on editing their post?

I did not know it works like this. I am not a native English speaker, so I edited incorrect grammar multiple times, sorry guys.

And I did hit the edit button each time, not the reply button, like this time.

Don't worry about it.

I sometimes edit my posts many, many times when I find small errors.

The host is a bit tricky to put together but iā€™m surprised you needed a longer spring. Is the driver sitting in the usual spot since you couldnt use the retaining ring or did you solder it further back? In other lights sometimes people just take some material off the inside of the retaining ring to make room if itā€™s close.

No problem. :+1: ā€¦ā€¦ Welcome to BLF!! :slight_smile:

+1
I edit the crap out of my postsā€¦ My BLF account has this weird bug, it automatically edits my posts with a lot of mistakes so I keep having to go in and correct them :smiley:

Thank you. Whatever flashlights I have built would not be possible without this forum.

I have not soldered the 4 wires to the driver board yet, but just eyeballed that the factory spring would just touch my flat top cells (spring begins where the threads just end), but I will double check.

EDIT1: I was wrong! The shorter spring also works. And I have completed building this flashlight. While light output from the 219B triple is average at 2.4A, it actually renders things better than sunlight in red region (tested with wooden doors, skin, tongue, red multimeter leads, red buckets). Totally puts my 85cri Cree T5-5D1 to shame, which despite having a rosy tint looks orangey. Thank you JohnnyC for writing the awesome firmware (star momentary 1.6) that I used in this light.

EDIT2: If a beginner wants to repurpose Nanjg driver like me, please do not use solid core wires as they are not flexible, you may have a hard time pushing the driver down.

:+1: Me Too!! :person_facepalming:

I never had to do that back when I had an error-correcting modem.