The host is a bit tricky to put together but i’m surprised you needed a longer spring. Is the driver sitting in the usual spot since you couldnt use the retaining ring or did you solder it further back? In other lights sometimes people just take some material off the inside of the retaining ring to make room if it’s close.
+1
I edit the crap out of my posts… My BLF account has this weird bug, it automatically edits my posts with a lot of mistakes so I keep having to go in and correct them
Thank you. Whatever flashlights I have built would not be possible without this forum.
I have not soldered the 4 wires to the driver board yet, but just eyeballed that the factory spring would just touch my flat top cells (spring begins where the threads just end), but I will double check.
EDIT1: I was wrong! The shorter spring also works. And I have completed building this flashlight. While light output from the 219B triple is average at 2.4A, it actually renders things better than sunlight in red region (tested with wooden doors, skin, tongue, red multimeter leads, red buckets). Totally puts my 85cri Cree T5-5D1 to shame, which despite having a rosy tint looks orangey. Thank you JohnnyC for writing the awesome firmware (star momentary 1.6) that I used in this light.
EDIT2: If a beginner wants to repurpose Nanjg driver like me, please do not use solid core wires as they are not flexible, you may have a hard time pushing the driver down.
Sorry, my mistake on the XP-L2 statement… the emitters I got in mine were XP-L V6 2C/2D. Nice tint, nice output. Yes, the 3000 lumens out of the box was correct.
Another good news guys! I tried to convince Sofirn to sell switch tailcaps separately. So if you want you can lockout the C8F with it. I hope they will have it in the store soon.
Confused, sorry-- I guess you have a FEW of these C8Fs ;) But your batch of XP-L2s (that you mention earlier) from Arrow... I ordered the same (I think), anyway wondering if I'm remembering right where you DO have BOTH an XPL Hi and XL-L2 FC8, right? If so was wondering if you had an opinion to share with regard to the differences between the two?
Also, didn't you also try the SST-40? (or what that another light- you write about so many!)
You would need to swap to a mcpcb with 5050 pads. Mtn Elec had a few pads left the last time I checked. You could also go with 3 x xhp50 and 2 x 18350 Aspire cells and get 10k lumen! According to DB Custom.
I would describe the hot spot as VERY strong and very white. There is a noticable yellow corona you see best in pic #2 and the spill returns to a whitish color as you get further away from the yellow ring (white > yellow > white). It’s quite floody overall but the hot spot is very bright white.
Moon:
Turbo (ISO200, WB @ 4700K)
Regulated, couple feet away:
~1ft:
Bonus E2L Nichia 4000k 90CRI with same Camera settings:
However, it doesn’t look nearly this rosy to me in person so I’m not sure how this helps? Am I supposed to keep the camera settings consistent for comparisons?
Personally, if I’m trying to show someone what the colors look like, I will adjust the images tint, etc… to make the picture resemble what I’m seeing with my own eyes. Why, because cameras can be funky! Lol