Review : Utorch UT01 Flashlight (XP-L V6 / AA & 14500 / e-switch)

Thanks for responding with your advice of using a LiIon battery to reenable use of NiMh. I tried that, and also a NiZn and a LiFe battery, but no luck, it will only turn on with a LiIon so my driver must be in error.
But I got the 4’th level back, it only disappeared because the LiIon was nearly flat.

has anyone tried to mod this light? i’d like to drop in a nichia, and i would LOVE to change the UI so it was hold to change modes and single click on/off. I guess if i could get the head off I could reflow the led but I have no idea how to go about changing the modes.

I have a UT01 on the way, and plan on trying to use protected 14500s in it. Can someone detail how to do the paperclip mod to be able to use protected batteries? TIA.

There are two remedies. First, the ‘paper clip’ trick is easier accomplished if you have a bit of small diameter (rosin core) solder handy. Just roll a tight circle around an AA cell and fit it inside the tail cap (trim length as necessary), against the outside circumference, so when the cap is on it’s squeezed between the cap and the rim of the tube, thus adding inner length.

Start with a piece of wire or solder exactly 50 mm in length, and you might have to trim it just a hair. (Mine measured 49.46 mm, I just now straightened one out and measured it. The solder diameter is 1.5 mm.)

A paper clip works too, but it’s a stiffer and harder to work with.

The best cure is to carefully reach inside the tail cap and cut off about 3/4 of the outer spring. As issued, the springs ‘stack up’ and rob length. If you leave the bottom 1 or 1 1/2 rounds of the outer spring, it still serves its purpose but pushes down around the inner spring rather than on top of it.

Whatever you choose, do it before you ever put a battery in for the first time! I think most of these lights are getting damaged right from new, when owners put a battery in a brand new light, screw down the cap and crunch the switch & driver. They’re terrific little lights, but the tubes are just too short.

I don’t know for sure about protected 14500s, I only use Energizer Ultimates and Eneloops. I’ve clipped the springs out of four now, and they all work flawlessly with those - protected 14500s might be still too long. I suppose you could do both the paper clip AND spring cut, that should get you a lot of inner length.

Thanks for the info. The UT01 looks like a little powerhouse, perfect size for a coat pocket light, and a bargain at the coupon price. Sure hope the switch works on mine. I’ve also got a Jetbeam Jet-1 MK on the way, cool little light also.

Here’s a photo of my “paperclip” (posted earlier - post #349)

You can’t use an actual paperclip, not thick enough (copper conducts better anyhow) I used a section of 12g copper wire (like Romex) I wrapped the wire around an AA battery to help shape it into a circle, (but keep in mind it will need to be slightly larger than the battery diameter) a 14500 protected button top fits nicely now, but I probably should have used 14g wire instead because now there’s only about 2 full turns of the threads screwing the cap on, just barely covers the o-ring when snug… but it works fine.

I didn’t really want to clip down my spring yet, wasn’t sure how short of a battery I may occasionally use or if it would be a problem otherwise. (I’m not saying clipping the spring is a bad idea though, I just didn’t want to go that route yet)

And definitely what Tumbleweed said about not putting in a long battery before the mod, I only had protected button tops at the time, so I just tried it with alka-leaks until I did the mod for fear of crunching the driver.

Anyone have both the 5000k and the 6500k models, and can say how they compare? I’m wondering which one might be better. Thought I’d read the 5000k is pretty yellow,so I ordered the 6500k model. Might want to order another one, but not sure about the 5000k, which is what I usually go for.

Have both. The 6500 is not any brighter surprisingly. I’m going for another 5000.

I find my UTorch UT01 (supposedly “neutral-white”) has a yellow tint that doesn’t look that good (compare the warm yellow from the Convoy S2+ XM-L2 T6-4C below)

https://imgur.com/a/Hptyd

(reference: Nichia 219B 90CRI ~5000K from Astrolux S41S)

(XP-L HD ‘3D’ ~5000K from Astrolux S1 3D)

(XM-L2 T6-4C ~4300-4500K from Convoy S2+ XM-L2 T6-4C)

(XP-L HD ?? 4000K? from UTorch UT01 “neutral-white 3D”)

I confirm, it is ugly yellow and as measured, it has 3750K and not declared 5000K. The flashlight and UI are great, that’s why I will exchange the LED on the U6-3A, which is the perfect 5000K. I already have one and it has a perfect shade.

And it will look like after transplantation:

Awesome examples and info, d_t_a_ and komeko. Thanks. I’ll stick with the 6500K model if I order another one. Komeko, that beamshot on the right looks really good. Is that using the U6-3A LED that you changed to? If it is, I might have to try doing this as my first shot at modding.

This is an example from another of my flashlight that has just been modified. The throw will be different, but the color will be the same. Once I have this diode in UT01, I will take pictures and show them.

Tint is a matter of personal preference, and sometimes that can change, or vary for different uses.

Personally I like the so called “ugly yellow” 3750K in this NW version, but for the most part I never preferred warmer neutrals, I was always only going as low as 5000K because I thought I’d only want “pure white” with no blue or yellow then I got a few convoy lights with 4C, I didn’t like them at first but later tried again and found the warmer tint to be somewhat pleasing, at least for certain uses.

I’m using this little UT01 primarily indoors and the warmer than normal neutral is very pleasing to me, especially late at night when my eyesight is already adjusted to low light. or for example, in a movie theater.

Looking at comparison photos of the tints shined against a white wall in my opinion is not a great example of what you’ll see in normal use (unless all you use a flashlight for is illuminating white objects and walls) Naturally if you see a photo of a yellowish light shined on a wall next to a pure white beam you’re going to think the pure white beam looks better, but to see how it is for you in real-life use you’ll have to just get one and try it. I also really like high CRI like the Nichia.

In fact using this NW UT01 has me wanting to try WW 3000K in a larger light, so I’m considering the Sofirn SF36W as the first WW addition to my large collection of NW lights.

.

All your pics are no show…

Click on them, they’re links EDIT: sorry you’re right! I was looking at his sig thinking those were the photos, yes komeko’s pics are not showing…

crz6662… BTW, I live about 20min out of PGH. !

In fact using this NW UT01 has me wanting to try WW 3000K in a larger light, so I’m considering the Sofirn SF36W as the first WW addition to my large collection of NW lights.

I also love the tint on my NW UT01. Normally I prefer something like a 4C tint. I also have the Sofirn SF36W, 3000K …… and love the tint on it. I have never seen tint like this before :slight_smile: If you like the “ugly yellow” of 3750K, you’ll like this one too.

…… to each his own

Thanks for the feedback on the SF36W tint! Yeah like I said it’s a matter of personal preference,and sometimes that can change :wink:

I have both. As a night light (ceiling bounce) on the lowest setting, the 5000k version is fine. For all other purposes, I prefer the 6500k version.

Cool. I’m in Bellevue. Nice to meet you…

You by chance gat a BLF GT ? Awesome freaking light…

Same to you, yeah we’re close I’m right up 28N

Don’t have a GT, just getting in to some throwers but nothing that big, I had to chuckle when I saw the size of that thing, it was a WTF moment :smiley:

Can’t say I’m not curious though, would be real interesting to try it at the vista in my back yard that overlooks the Allegheny river valley. I guess it’s coming out as a production model, Astrolux MF04? I just found the Astrolux MF03, and that’s the one I’m really interested in, if it really happens.