I don’t think there is any 14500 nor 16340, nor 18350 light that can maintain 500 lumens for more than a few seconds.
here is the Klarus runtime plot:
if you want to shift to a shorter option than 14500, consider a 16340 light such as the S Mini
if you want an 18350 light with a 1000 lumen turbo, consider the PT-16
And you then proceed to show a plot that clearly demonstrates over 500 lumens for what looks like about 3 minutes?
I have the Klarus M17 and the Utorch UT-01.
Both have their strengths, the Klarus is thinner and slightly longer, and has a cooler tint with a defined hot-spot giving decent throw and very useful spill.
The Utorch is nearly all flood, much better for close to room-size purposes, but no significant throw for outdoors.
I believe the Klarus is the better all-rounder, nice direct access to moonlight, turbo, and easy lockout with battery check as well.
The Klarus Mi7 accepts protected 14500 without any issues too. Its a steal for $20 with code.
Forgot to mention, the Klarus won’t accept flat-top 14500’s , I don’t remember if the Utorch does, but I now have Soshine 14500 button tops, working perfectly in both, and genuine 850mAh, non-protected. Available from Electronic Apartmetn Store . Best service I have received from an AliExpress store yet (but probably only because I haven’t bought direct from Convoy so far)
I have several Utorch Ut01s. With a 14500 they are supposed to do 800 lumens. It is a very bright little light but probably more in the 700 lumen range. They are programmable for output in each mode and it’s very easy to do. From the factory, they are not set on the highest setting for Turbo so don’t be disappointed with initial output. with a code, they can regularly be had for $10 shipped.
thanks for keeping me honest, you’re right, 3 minutes of constantly dropping brightness above 500 lumens, is a lot more than just a few seconds
but that does not make what I said inaccurate:
“I don’t think there is any 14500 nor 16340, nor 18350 light that can maintain 500 lumens for more than a few seconds.”
a note about the Mi7 spec:
Over-Discharge Protection automatically lowers output levels to protect rechargeable batteries
imo, that is not true protection, it is a step down in brightness but the Klarus will continue to drain the cell, it won’t actually stop draining at 2.7v, so it can over discharge if a light is forgotten in the ON position… Of course no self respecting flashaholic would fail to notice, but granny might… Moral of the story, Klarus is not for Granny 
My Klarus Mi7 has such bad parasitic drain that I can’t really use it unless I physically lock out the light. Klarus’s customer service hasn’t done anything about it so I won’t buy another.
Love my Nitecore MT10a and EA11, if you don’t mind the larger head. That being said, I EDC a UTorch UT01 with neutral tint. Just got a spare for around $10 on a coupon. I actually carry 2 UT01’s. One with a 14500, the other I run off alkalines from my junk drawer. They claim 400 lumens off an AA. The turbo is plenty bright for me. One caveat: Mine doesn’t accept protected cell 14500 unless I use the paperclip mod (I use copper wire, not a paperclip).
All things considered, I think it’s pretty hard to beat the UT01. Interface works for me, like the deep pocket clip, side button so shorter form factor, more than cheap enough, especially with a coupon. Length-wise, it’s just barely longer than my Lumintop tool AAA. I would like a tail magnet, but to be fair, not sure how often I’d use it.
As far as Lumen output goes Lumintop EDC05 is not in the same league as the UT01 and Manker E11. The difference in lumen output is slight but noticeable…. thread here:
Here is a Manker E11 runtime plot, you can see it cannot maintain 500 lumens for more than a second or two, on its declining brightness output
(pic is a link)
I have not researched why those lines are wavy, maybe PWM, or maybe thermal regulation, but either way, there is no flat regulated 500 lumen output, in fact, there is no flat regulated output at all.
as far as who copied who, Manker, Utorch, Lumintop, to me it makes no sense to claim any copied the other… imho, these cheap Chinese lights all source their parts from the same sources, they just make some changes to the knurling, pocket clip, and logo, and maybe to the driver too, but the basic parts stock all comes essentially out of the same factory… The branding is by different companies, yes, but the parts supply and original manufacturing, are pretty much generic and interchangeable.
That is why we see so many “clones”. They aren’t really clones, they are just different batch orders with different “branding”.
Sure, I was just using the manufacturer specs as I don’t have means to confirm or to measure it myself! All 3 are advertised as 800 lumens that in practice may not be reached, of course.
All the outputs provided are based on what the listed specs are! 
I missed this code…any help?
go join this site, then you can get the secret code
https://m4dm4x.com/m4d-m4x-deals/
he requires us not to tell the code, nor the price, so that he can keep getting commissions. Use the link on his site too, its all part of a marketing and promotion scheme. There are at least 3 people who post on this site, that get commissions for discount codes, if people use their affiliate link… its all hush hush in open forum, you have to communicate with them privately
the deal is real, go for it!
thanks for the help…i’ll sign up.
sorry i didn’t mean to suggest a bypass or anything of the coupon guys setup…from my short time here I know there has been issues with that.
Acebeam M10
With 14500, Looks equal in output to my Klarus Mi7, and I much prefer the
Basic tail switch and UI
None of the 14500 lights will do an honest 1000 OTF, so scratch that off the list entirely. I don’t think they will do a constant 500 OTF either, due to thermal issues. So think of ~500-600 Lumens as short burst only. Either the CPU will throttle them down, or I suspect just thermal heating would reduce lumens significantly.
Even the nitecore EA11, despite its bigger size/mass… can’t sustain 500 OTF beyond either a timed or thermal step down.
The UT01-E11-EDC05 can defeat the Turbo timer step down. Its only accessible in the advanced program settings though. I have only used this mode a couple times when out foraging for fire wood at night. In that scenario I need as much light as possible, both Lux and Lumens… as I
am trying to find DRY wood off in the distance. I had the UT01 in my hand. It was around 45-F, with plenty of cold damp air to cool it as I walked. If you can identify wet/dry wood from a distance it can save you some walking. It got uncomfortably hot to hold after maybe 2-3 minutes, and I had to manually turn it down.
(FWIW, these lights also have a battery level indicator. I have since upgraded to a Thorfire D26-26650 for the above purpose, and general camp search light… much much better, but I take a significant size + weight penalty)
Guys, you all are wrong… :smiling_imp:
This is what you are looking for: Armytek Prime A1 Pro Xpl.
With 14500 battery produces about 560 lumens and after 23 minutes still about 530 lumens (thens starts rapidly steping down). So, 23 minutes (with Olight 14500, 750 mah) almost flat regulated output is really impresive, isnt it?
Prime A1 shines with an AA batteries too. I measured 455 lumens (with eneloop).
sounds good, but do you have evidence to support that claim?
Please post a link to a runtime graph
I can see why it maintains output for 23 minutes: it is huge! In that aproximate size you can buy a BLF X5 and have 1400 lumen on a 14500 and some cool throw too :party:
I don’t know how the size compares, but the Jetbeam E10R and the Thorfire TK05 are both good “14500” lights.
Here we are… This is the measurement I did with my tools (home made lightbox, cellphone with ceilingbounce app, callibrated with Olight S1A and ZL SC62w)
Armytek Prime A1 Pro with Olight 14500(750 mah)
!
!
Some numbers:
0s: 580 lm
30s(=100% in the graph): 553 lm
24 min.: 522 lm
24min 20s : step down…