ok
just posted 19 pics with explanation and then browser does the job....
Here are the pics, too tired to write the darn thing again...
Ask guestions please, its too early morning again tomorrow to write it again *?##¤%"&?*#*¤% !!!!
Edit: Ok, I´m up´n´running.
Set my clock to wake me 0400 instead of regular 0425 to get some thoughts here.
Here´s the side-by-side comparison with UF 980L.
UF has more aggressive bezel, yet is shorter in size.
980L for the reason I would compare this more to it than a random maker random spec C8...
There is no knurling on body but you can see 5 deeper grooves. They are quite grippy. If you use cigar hold like me, this should work well.
I take it from the grip ring near tailcap but with large hands, you can grip by using those grooves.
Anyway, since it has two of those rings, it does not need knurling much IMO. You can fit your palm in between those, gives a really solid grip and feel, really not slipping anywhere.
On the other hand, if you like smooth surfaces, you lose them with these rings.
Tail ring provides anti-roll, the one near head is not touching the ground when sideways, unless left on the edge of table. The dents in them are not "syncronized", so it might still roll.
ALL the threads are good for a budget light, lubed slightly. O-rings are big enough to make contact. Clicky is a solid feel one.
Over all, this is really a solid feeling thing for some 24$!!! Really one of those jawdroppers considering price/quality compared to those C8´s I´ve had.
Pulls 3+amps on high and the spot is smaller than in 980L, so will throw nicely. Beam is good no rants there.
The head, reflector.
Notice the dirt and debris, more later ->
LED is IMO centered enough, the interiors do not let the reflector to go far at all from center.
Headshots.
Some difference in size here also.
Notice the different shaped reflectors near the LED.
I like the less aggressive profile of bezel on Romisen.
Tailcap from inside. Bodytube has anodized threads so contact is made through the bottom.
Xtar 18700 inserted. You do notice the gap on right side but it is because on that side there is the minus-lead to PCB.
There is no batteryrattle at all. I have shaken this very hard and have had nothing, no mode skipping whatsoever.
It is not tight, it is just the right size!
Body tube has really flat machining, no ano. Allows lock-out and you have to twist it only 1/5 turn at max.
Driver has some oxidation, not to worry, works well.
Maybe these have been sitting on the shelf? Save them, while they last.
Here´s a good one.
Tube has been thinned inside on the head-end.
Contact is not made by bodytube pressing to the pill but through threads. I had one C8, took pill out and screwed it too far against reflector and started wondering, why it is not working anymore? Impossible to make it happen here.
EDIT: this was possible only with a fake C8, my original C8 structure has that typical pill which can be bought as sparepart also.
Reflector, notice debris.
2nd shot.
The LED.
Some dirt here also.
LED is a XM-L on 20mm star. Trasnparent insulation plastic there.
LED is quite centered, but there is a bit "generous" amount of that paste under it.
Definitelly a thick layer, I will scrap it off when changing emitter ( U2, T5 neutral, give feedback ;) ).
Pill removed.
On pille (see up) there were really shallow grooves to turn it from with pliers.
Take a turn or two from bezel ring, after it´s loose, the pill will screw out just gently turning from the spring of the driver :D
Not bad threads there, either...
Put some paste here, get that heat out from pill!
The amount of paste is ENOUGH!
Lens is a 40mm one, UCL anyone, is there a right size available? 8)
Ok, ok... it is not 4mm body, I admit it.
But a good one still at almost 3mm of thickness. Should be a good mass to take same heat after head has warmed.
The pill itself. Have not taken the driver or led out, will take shots when operating it.
Lenght of the pill
Wouldn´t it be nice to have this made in copper?!
At least I will check, how thick the plate the LED is sitting on is. I work in metal industry so I think I could get a lathe man to make something interesting there...
Reflector, it has NO FLAWS!
My 980L has three biggish blemishes. Very happy with this one. Smooth surface, no rants here.
Overall, this compares to me much more to 980L than C8. Ok, it is very plain looking maybe compared to fancier 980L but the quality is there.
Especially the reflector blemishes have dropped points on my 980L against this one. Threads are also better in this and so is battery fit.
980L is VERY tight pressing the batts with tailcap spring when using long ones, body tube is bigger etc... This is done properly.
Did I tell, a local battery maker (Lumilight) adjusted their batterys minus plate according to some pics I took of the old one used in 980L?
It had pressed the battery a dent. There was a "pretty plate" in minus end, not the usual PCB we tend to have, it was too weak so they changed it.
Got even 3 free batteries for a quickie review :)
Size of reflector.
On the left edge of the reflector, notice that small bump.
That is the cause of all this debris inside lamp. The fit of reflector in head is really good, no rattles whatsoever, impossible to misplace. So, this small bump was absolutely too much to fit in. It had been jammed there a bit, so small particles were all over. All in all I feel good about fitment of parts, really nice fit for the price compared to my 4 C8 experiments.
My rants go to lowish PWM rate, blinky modes, thats about it.
It´s a good one, consider this very carefully if needing a "C8" style flashlight for just added 4$.
This one is from DD.
thanks for the detailed pics
yeah thanks! didn't expect to see the larger diameter reflector vs the 980l..
Nice shots, Cheap Thrills. Looks like a quality light up close.
How does the Romisen compare with the XinTD C8? Are the brightness and throw comparable?
UPDATED with comments.
Highly recommended, 4,5/5 and the half point is gone because of some debris, PWM and 5-mode blinky.
If you can take these things, it´s a good one. Anyway if compared to C8 it´s a no-brainer, if grip rings or general looks don´t argue against it.
Really a better overall quality or else all my 4 C8´s have just been bad ones.
First thing I noticed, this has real looking anodizing and not that paint feel like C8´s...
anyone have any discount codes for Dino Direct to use on this light?
saypat,
I have a $5.00 off $30.00 coupon by the light and a set of batteries.... DDSAVINGISBELIEVING ends on 2/29/2012
Thanks for the good pics. Just placed an order to DD!
Dude, I totally know the feeling man, I once lost nearly 2 hours worth of work that way...
LOL, you sir are a true flashaholic! 
Thx for the detailed pics and write up!
wow, kewl. much appreciated, THANKS!
Yes, it works for everyone for minimum purchase $30!
Well… Almost got late from work, signed in 4 minutes before deadline.
What do you think about modding the pill in general?
Better to make it from thicker aluminun, brass or copper?
Does it make any sense to do it in first place? (add heft to pill for heat)
For coupon, does FLASH10 work anymore on DD?
Flash10 for 10% off no longer valid at DD...
yeah I used flash10 when I got mine..had some DD points also..total price was 18$..i'm happy to here about the battery fitting tightly and the large heat contact area..I will use this on my bike and may order another for dual beams..
Ok, got rants here:
When I keep it on table on High for say 15min, it looses modes and clicks on only to High.
It finds modes again when it has cooled down for about 10-20seconds. Modes function still, no problem.
Weird, would have expected a burnt driver but no. Has anyone had this kind of features in other lights?
Anyway, I was going to change it (PWM) to either KD V2 3A driver with 2-3 modes OR to 105 with 2,8A.
Asked today from a lathe worker, he is able to make heftier pills if needed :)
I know, a light worth of 24$ etc... But still! :D
pill looks pretty big...maybe pot the driver w/ thermal epoxy