Zebralight SC64c (XP-L2) measurements or "why 2-step means squat"

Is this light a good candidate for a 219C swap? The voltage is correct, but I don’t understand the output characteristics of the two emitters well enough to know how it would affect things. There were also some issues swapping a 219C into a much older ZL light.

ZLs have glued bezel and a reflector finish that doesn’t handle heat well, I tried to repair mine/mod mine a while back, ended up just picking out the driver.

If you want 219C in a headlamp I recommend modding a skilhunt instead, super easy to do.

Are you sure it was glued? Which light? I was under the impression the bezels were just press fit based on the limited modding reports I’ve read. I do actually have a 219C headlamp, but the SC6x series with a high CRI emitter that doesn’t look like crap is kind of a dream EDC light for me.

The LED is mounted on the driver. The driver has components on both sides. Part of the bottom side is flat and used for heatsinking.
And yes, the bezel is press fit.

It’s generally a very difficult mod.

I see what you mean from this old CPF thread about the SC52. It’s not so much getting it open, but what to do once it’s open. Even for a straight emitter swap, unless you can reflow in situ (I assume not), it would be almost impossible. I’ll echo maukka: Just give the ultimate EDC light to us with a decent emitter, please.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?353932-Zebra-SC52-let-the-modding-commence-NOT!

On the other hand, I believe the right angle lights still use a separate MCPCB for the emitter, which opens up the possibility of using some of Clemence’s new boards. There is the issue of removing the bezel without damage, especially with the frosty lens, but you can approach it by pulling out the switch cover and working your way inside. Too bad the thread OP on CPF seemingly intends to take the secret of how to remove a press fit bezel without damage to their grave and is still ignoring PMs years later.

All true and so sad. I still EDC a SC62d with an underperforming Philips LUXEON T emitter that looks great at the cost of reduced output per watt.
Would love to mod any of my ZLs but the last one I was able to do was a SC600 before they integrated the driver. Beyond my ability now.
Yeah, this is all “first world problem” and nitpicking and all, but it’s nice to have choices. Any of these flashlights would’ve seemed like alien technology 20 years ago but I think even then some people would’ve noticed all the color variation across the beam.
I’m glad Maukka mentioned the “brownish spot”, I was always afraid to use that term because it sounds ridiculous that the hotspot of a flashlight would have such a thing, but there it is.
It’s hard to replace the SC62d because the clip and pocket fit are just perfect. I keep buying lights anyway, wonder if I’ll ever kick this habit?

I also returned an SC64c because of ugly yellow tint, and the “brownish spot” was quite visible on my sample. Very frustrating Zebralight go out of their way to offer a high CRI version of my favourite EDC light that looks much worse than the regular XHP35 version.

The huge oscillations in maukka’s H1 runtime are a new thing for ZL. Their lights traditionally have a very flat PID output. Both new ones I tried have more accurate temperature limits, sustain turbo longer, but hunt a lot more when stepped down. It’s slow enough to not be really visible in use, but kind of a weird change.

(Note: this was measured with a Pixel 2 which unfortunately has a terrible lux meter output resolution. It’s actually much smoother.)

Well, that’s a big disappointment. I wonder why the gen4 series is downgraded compared to gen3.

Thanks for all this info. Decided to purchased the SC600w Mk III Hi before they are all gone. Maybe they will do better with gen5

Not a bad choice. The Mk III H600Fd and SC600w HI are two of my top 10 lights. Lovely UI, lovely tint, great size. Hope the Vs will step up the game once again.

Thanks Mauri. I have the H600Fd III as well. Great headlamp

I’ve been thinking about pulling the trigger on the new H604c. I’ve been waiting to hear reports of how the beam looks.
It uses:
Cree XHP50.2 Neutral White LED
Nominal CCT: 4000K
Typical CRI: 93-95
Tint deviation: 3-step

This testing you’ve done on the two step xp-l2 has me worried. I too have found the Cree HI emitters to look real nice with nice even color. I think all their full flood mule headlights use domed emitters though.

Its a shame. You’d think they would do some tint sorting and offer good ones in their “c” color and “d” daylight offerings, and leave the green, yellow and brown tints for other models. They certainly charge enough to justify the extra effort.

The SC600w III HI came in. Like you said, very nice even tint. The UI is great, just like the H600Fd Mk III.

I have an SC600 IV Plus.

It’s quite nice. Compared to the III HI, the IV Plus is much brighter with much brighter spill and a wider, but dimmer hotspot.

The maximum output is quite a bit dimmer dimmer than my XPL HI D4s, but not by a hugely noticeable amount since more of the light is concentrated in the narrower hotspot.

Also the heatsinking in the SC600 is excellent. After a minute tailstanding it hasn’t significantly dimmed and is enormously brighter than my D4s, which all dim quite rapidly as they heat up.

Looks like Zebralight tweaked the PID tuning at some point during production. This is a brand new SC64c from an Amazon reseller.

They would look basically the same of you did the measurement for the same length of time and scaled the graphs identically.

It’s actually the same graph, but the second image is zoomed in.

Ah, yes. I thought he was comparing two different lights and their respective graphs. :person_facepalming:

I don’t know what all this means. But I am wondering if H2 run time, hit 10% 30 seconds before 50%.

Also, saving this post for the next time I hear someone say CRI is more important than tint.