Here are the pics, too tired to write the darn thing again...
Ask guestions please, its too early morning again tomorrow to write it again *?##¤%"&?*#*¤% !!!!
Edit: Ok, I´m up´n´running.
Set my clock to wake me 0400 instead of regular 0425 to get some thoughts here.
Here´s the side-by-side comparison with UF 980L.
UF has more aggressive bezel, yet is shorter in size.
980L for the reason I would compare this more to it than a random maker random spec C8...
There is no knurling on body but you can see 5 deeper grooves. They are quite grippy. If you use cigar hold like me, this should work well.
I take it from the grip ring near tailcap but with large hands, you can grip by using those grooves.
Anyway, since it has two of those rings, it does not need knurling much IMO. You can fit your palm in between those, gives a really solid grip and feel, really not slipping anywhere.
On the other hand, if you like smooth surfaces, you lose them with these rings.
Tail ring provides anti-roll, the one near head is not touching the ground when sideways, unless left on the edge of table. The dents in them are not "syncronized", so it might still roll.
ALL the threads are good for a budget light, lubed slightly. O-rings are big enough to make contact. Clicky is a solid feel one.
Over all, this is really a solid feeling thing for some 24$!!! Really one of those jawdroppers considering price/quality compared to those C8´s I´ve had.
Pulls 3+amps on high and the spot is smaller than in 980L, so will throw nicely. Beam is good no rants there.
The head, reflector.
Notice the dirt and debris, more later ->
LED is IMO centered enough, the interiors do not let the reflector to go far at all from center.
Headshots.
Some difference in size here also.
Notice the different shaped reflectors near the LED.
I like the less aggressive profile of bezel on Romisen.
Tailcap from inside. Bodytube has anodized threads so contact is made through the bottom.
Xtar 18700 inserted. You do notice the gap on right side but it is because on that side there is the minus-lead to PCB.
There is no batteryrattle at all. I have shaken this very hard and have had nothing, no mode skipping whatsoever.
It is not tight, it is just the right size!
Body tube has really flat machining, no ano. Allows lock-out and you have to twist it only 1/5 turn at max.
Driver has some oxidation, not to worry, works well.
Maybe these have been sitting on the shelf? Save them, while they last.
Here´s a good one.
Tube has been thinned inside on the head-end.
Contact is not made by bodytube pressing to the pill but through threads. I had one C8, took pill out and screwed it too far against reflector and started wondering, why it is not working anymore? Impossible to make it happen here.
EDIT: this was possible only with a fake C8, my original C8 structure has that typical pill which can be bought as sparepart also.
Reflector, notice debris.
2nd shot.