Your choice of Nichia E21A emitters. Mixing tints should work nicely with the frosted lens.
This all seems like too much work. I should start a flashlight company and make expensive stuff that doesn’t have anything seriously wrong with it. I’d sell dozens of them, I’m sure.
zak.wilson by the way as you can see at first picture mk4 have clip.
About holder. For outdoor use Armytek holder is the best way to lose headlamp)
The only point I agree with you is LED and MCPCB. It is really great light source.
I haven’t lost a Wizard yet, nor heard of anyone else having issues. I’ll admit it’s more likely to fall out in theory. I also haven’t heard of anyone else getting a clip included with their Zebralight H600-series, but it would be a big improvement if this is standard now.
zl’s reply
“1) We are aware of the high current through the spring, and that’s the exactly why we switched to multiple pins in our flashlight products. High output headlamp models will move to the pin design in the future. Different spring materials or bypass won’t help much because some of our customers will still insist on using their low quality high resistance protected batteries.
2) We are aware of the ringing/oscillating in the Mk 4 18650 lights. We’ll try to fine tune the PID parameters (and possibly setting up a new calibration process) in future. ”
That’s a bizarre response. Nothing will help if the user puts in a battery that can’t handle the light’s current draw, but a better spring will certainly help with the issues you described when an appropriate battery is in the light.
I am pretty sure he is blowing the spring issue out if proportion. He didn’t even say if the spring was discoloured. I am sure ZL tested the light and I bet as long as a good quality cell with an appropriate current rating is used the spring will work fine. Plenty of other users have reviewed this light and no one else has said anything about an issue with the spring. Just use the lights guys and if there is an issue ZL has great customer service and a good warranty.
Simply not true. You may try to read the reports again.
What has been one of the excellencies of previous versions was the perfectly constant brightness output in all levels - it is a wreck right now. :confounded:
And their response just make no sense whatsoever.
I am returning the H600Fc mkIV and going back to Armytek Wizard Pro v3 (much better, smoother PID with stable output at turbo) and H600Fc mkIII (not happy about it, since I like the XHP50.2 and especially the new UI that saved me from accidentally blinding myself trying to start in moonlight in old UI). Will buy mkIV surely again after they fix it.
I have read the reports and no one mentioned anything about the spring overheating or discoloring.
If you are talking about the PID ringing, while I agree it should have been better tuned, it is not noticeable in normal use and the gen 4 thermal regulation is much improved over the gen 3’s in other ways(2048 micro levels vs 384, smoother less noticeable ramping).
It’s pretty funny how people blow issues out of proportion even if they have little to no effect on actual use. It’s also funny how people disregard all the good things about a light and just focus on the flaws no matter how insignificant. No light is perfect but, ZL make some of the closest ones I have found.
Have fun sitting in the dark when your Armytek dies lol. And, there lights have pretty bad ringing too by the way…
may be, PID in IV version isn't optimal (tuned for max.output), but what we have in practice ?
1) max. mode for continuous use in any weather is 280lm (may be, except very hot nights), this mode has no PID.
And no problems with PID, no problems with springs.
2) In cold/moderate cold weather (as currently in my city, ~~0C) 580lm mode will work without PID and may be used for continuous use. (yes, in case of hot weather brightless will be decreased by PID.)
No problems with PID, no problems with springs.
3) For short time in any weather we can use turbo mode, 980lm, for 1-2min. With PID, but in any case we 'll receive 1-2min of bright light. It's more than user usually need for "turbo" purposes from headlamp,
for many years I use turbo mode in my Zebra headlamps for few tens seconds, <1min.
No problems with PID, no problems with springs.
4) watercooled / hard cooled tests + continuous use of 1560lm mode,other "bdsm" use, etc.
Yes, in these modes we 'll have problems with PID and problems with springs.
If you don’t know Ohms law , I can not help you to understand this simple fact.
FYI discolored take place under very hi temperature higher than the melting point of the solder.
My point is there is no safety issue and the light will still work just fine even if the performance on H1 isn’t optimal.
These are still great lights and one of the best choices for a headlamp of on the market even if they have a couple of small things that can be improved. Scaring people away from them when these are very minor issues is doing them a disservice imo.
As for these minor issues, ZL is always refining their designs and I am sure they will be improved in the future. These are brand new models and there is always a risk buying the first run of anything. Just like vehicles buying the first of a new design is always taking a risk and if want the least issues then you have to be patient and wait for all the bugs to be worked out and not buy from the first few runs.
But honestly, these issues are so minor that I doubt they would even present an issue with most people in real world use. I know for a fact the PID ringing is more of a “light meter problem” and has little effect on normal use. The new thermal regulation on these lights is so smooth that you can barely even tell its working in ideal conditions when you are trying to see it so the occilations won’t even be noticed.