It’s even more frustrating as 4sevens Quark lights aren’t exactly cheap/budget lights.
Why don’t you email 4sevens and see what lube they suggest??
their suggestion is listed on their website: Deoxit
no way i am gonna use this. i had already trusted in buying the Quark "quality", that's enough.
from what i can tell, the Nano-Oil.com stuff should be the best .. but before i spend another 16$ on lube, i better buy a new anodized flashlight for this kind of money ;) Another Romisen or so. Apart from the choice of lubing product, the Quark's threads and machining is indeed "not on a quality level with Sunawayman or Klarus" .. to phrase it extra 
mildly.
If the threads themselves were thicker and top-quality stuff, then i would look into buying the Nano-oil; it would be worth the efforts and investment.
Since the Quark threads are the way they are (you named it, i didnt!!), there is definitely no point in buying even better lube than the Superlube. I will continue to observe and report back. So far my observation:
Superlube oil kills the friction (mainly caused in the fat Quark o-rings) but the Quark bare aluminum still gets eaten up with the twisting action and you dont feel it because Superlube kills all friction. This makes one wish for a Titanium Quark (too expensive and heavy!) or anodized threads!!
Anyone has tested the esoteric Nano-Oil??
I just bought a bottle of this same Radio Shack Precision Lube today, and it's great. I did a little research and lo and behold this is "Super Lube" oil. It's even got a "Synco" pocket clip on it. I assume Synco (makers of super lube) sells it to Radio Shack and then Radio Shack slaps their name on it. They call it "Needle Tip Precision Lubricator". It cost me around $3.99 for a 7ml bottle.
good info, thanks!
my superlube oil works extremely well on (any kind of) o-rings and anodized threads.
it kills friction in bare aluminum threads (e.g. Quark threads) but doesnt really reduce abrasion (build up of "grey crap" is still there)
on titanium threads it doesnt do anything noticeable. i even get build up of the grey cr*p which i dont seem to get with other/no lubes. thats why i dont recommend superlube oil on titanium threads. maybe superlube grease works better on Ti threads.
I thought I remembered hearing it was on a CPF thread once. Works pretty good. I remember hearing this being the best low cost option since it was compatible with most of the metals and rubbers in lights.
Unfortunately not carried at all retail locations. They also carry a Anti-Corrosive Lubricant Spray which I have found useful. Like WD-40, but leaves a slight oil film. It has help me unstick a few pills/switches that seized up.
Kreisler, I found this at the super lube website:
After using Super Lube®, I sometimes see black on the metal surface. What is this?
Super Lube® also acts as a cleaner. The black you are seeing is dirt that has been drawn from the surface.
Hmmmm, not sure I agree with that assessment. I clean threads with mag wheel/aluminum cleaner before I apply grease or lube. Doesn't matter, threads still turn grey regardless.
was an ironical post of mine :)
Doh! 
Missed that; You need to use more smilies next time. 
I'm usually better at spotting ironicals.
I use faucet grease. Very inexpensive and every hardware store has it in stock. Only a couple of bucks for a lifetime supply size.
Mmmmmmm, Fawcett grease.....
sweet.
i also like Fairchild and Fonda :love:
Fonda :-(
That Fawcett will never be greased again 
Sadly, no... 
But as kreisler noted, there's always Fairchild Paste and Fonda Wax!
After asking about this lube and having not much of a response, I picked up some of the Contralube 770 lube today.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/contralube-770-connector-lubricant-346030
It's excellent clear synthetic grease with good consistency. I've applied it to the threads of one of my Solarforce L2P hosts with excellent results.
Highly recommended for us UK people!
i had asked the superlube company about the grey buildup in the suberlubed non-anodized bare aluminum threads (e.g. in Quarks or Klarus P1A) suspecting that the superlube oil would dissolve the unprotected aluminum and the answer i got was:
and yesterday the maker of Nano-Oil (a substance which i assume works a little better on unanodized aluminum threads) who is wary of making any kind of promises regarding the performance on unanodized aluminum threads commented:
Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread
Originally Posted by Nano-Oil.com
I do agree that my response was cryptic to a level, I do apoligize but there are reasons,
I cannot & will not promote Nano-Oil in CPF
ex: I always use the verbage "use a good anti friction lubricant of your choice"
From google cache one can see that 1 or 2 years ago he was selling Nano-Oil on cpfmp but then he stopped the dealer's subscription on cpfmp. In any case, as far as i can tell the original problem of
unanodized soft bare aluminum threads (male rubbing against female)
is still unsolved. But it's good to know that superlube does not dissolve the material. As stated earlier, superlube does kill the friction in the bare aluminum threads. Feels really good and smooth. (Not so good on Titanium threads, though). No wonder that nobody wants to promise anything or promote the oil further on CPF: we flashaholics are highly criticial (some with asperger's) and much of our Chin*se threads are just made of cheap aluminum quality. I'll continue to assert and promise that there is no lube on earth (< 20$) which solves the original problem to kreisler's satisfaction.
With typical lube (superlube, nanooil, silicone oil, etc.) we will always end up with grey crap in our unanodized aluminum threads. Simple as that. It's maybe comparable to the example of stainless steel kitchen countertops: when you try to clean/scrub the kitchen counter with a dishcloth, the dishcloth will end up grey from the stainless steel abrasion.
I really wouldn't worry about the grey gunk! You seem a little too concerned about it!
It will not effect the threads in anyway and the lube will still do it's job even if it's a different colour. The only slight annoyance is when you place the light down during cell change over, the discoloured lube will leave a mark (if your not careful) on surfaces.
Apart from that, just EMBRACE the grey gunk. 