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Hey guys,
I’m debating on my next build and would like some input from y’all. I’d like to add a clear anodized C8 to the collection, and I want to use a XHP for some serious output. I recently put a XHP50 in my L2, and I love it. But the L2 is just too huge to lug around. So I think the C8 will fit the bill.
I’m undecided on a few things though:
- XHP50.2 or XHP70 (both in 6v: plan on using 2 efest 18350’s)
- I’ve never opened up a reflector to accommodate a larger emitter, so the XHP70 will be an added challenge if I go with that.
- SMO or OP: I’d like a usable beam. I figure either XHP will give me plenty of spill even with a SMO, so OP might be overkill flood.
- All of my builds have FET’s so I don’t think there is any reason to change things up now :smiling_imp:
- I’d really like a lighted tailcap, but I keep reading that they cause issues with the drivers. This true?
I know this will put a ton of heat out, and won’t be usable on high for very long… but that’s what the other modes are for :sunglasses:
Thanks for your input!
I built a Supfire L6 ( C8 with 26650 tube/ 2 - 26650 ) with a XHP70 5k tint OP reflector/ fet driver —I shaved the dome also—made a very nice light — 3800 lm 60klux —— one of my favorite lights—— opening the reflector up is easy —- I used multiple bits graduating up very slowly
Nichia 144A! Or quad E21A on the new Virence board; E21As are borderless, so that works in a reflector just like an XHP does. You can even wire that for 3V.
But if you’re going with XHPs, I really don’t like the beams made by any of the XHP.2 emitters. They’re… multicolored. I’d go with the original XHP70 in the OP reflector for the best looking beam.
Also, Aspire 18350s and the new Keeppower 1200 mAh will significantly outperform those Efests.
Chops, did you have any issue with the reflector chipping where you were drilling? I was thinking maybe this would work best?
I’ve never owned a Nichia emitter; I kinda assumed they stereotypical sacrifice output for higher CRI…. and I don’t mind the color difference personally. I’ll have to check out the Aspire and Keeppowers for sure. I appreciate the help!
Not so much the Reflector chipping —The metal is very thin so the bit cuts very fast—I found if you try to go too big too fast —it cuts the hole off center and out of round—- I bought 3 reflectors—trashed the first one going too fast—second was acceptable—third was almost perfect but I only cut 3/32 at a time—- A cheap Ryobi bit set from HD—- also I have a drill press—Al;most forgot—- Slow Speed
Then you don’t know what you’re missing. The easy way to find out is to put a 219C in a 3 volt light. Use it to illuminate objects that aren’t solid colors, but have some variation. Details become much more clear, like where one leaf on the ground ends and the next begins, or whether that long, sort of cylindrical object partially obscured in the grass is a stick or a snake.
The 144A is in the same ballpark for output as the XHP50 at low to medium current, but can’t be effectively driven as hard. I have a couple of them in Armytek Wizards that came with XHP50s. The one that’s actually the correct voltage lost about 6% (1429 lumens to 1343).
I use those things for rough work, like forcing a larger hole in a steel plate for a bigger bolt, screw or nail. But I would not use it for something accurate as widening the opening in a reflector. There is a big risk that the drill will get jammed, which almost automatically will off-set the center of the opening. I would rather use something like this:
where yiu can buy this?
I made a Convoy C8 XHP70 not so long ago. Here is the thread.
Maybe there is answer for some questions.
If your going to be a tint snob then just put the MT-G2 in there.
which is my vote anyway.