Well, that’s the price of CRI and a tint that doesn’t change to purple near the edges. I don’t like the tint of the 219c’s in my d4 as much as I do the middle of the spot from 3d xpl’s; the 5000k is actually a bit over that cct instead of under; but it’s nice enough otherwise and plenty bright. I’ve got the q8 with the 3d xpl’s and vtc6’s and I like them well enough, but I only run a sanyo ga in my d4. I can see it will be hard to pick one option…
If I understand correctly, if the FW3A sells well, it’ll probably be the first in a series. FW3A for aluminum, FW3B for brass, FW3C for copper, FW3T for titanium. It shouldn’t be a once-only limited-time thing unless something goes wrong.
However, like most of these projects, the price may be higher for the general public after the group buy is done.
I have a lot of lights… and the FW3A is what I’ve been using the most lately. It’s not the prettiest light in my collection, but it does seem unusually practical. It’s one of the smallest 18650 lights, one of the most versatile, it’s mod-friendly, and it has a good clip and good ergonomics. So I hope it’ll stick around.
My vote is for A D, but I’m Ok with C. People (muggles) already complain about the flickers in the GT and Q8. We don’t need extra indicators to really confuse the muggles…
What flickers? The blink at each end of the ramp? I maybe could understand a muggle asking what it is, but not complaining about it. I’ve heard zero complaints personally.
There is also a blink in the middle at highest regulation level (I think). So, yes, people that don’t know what it is think they have a malfunctioning light. I have seen a few complaints on FB groups.
No, this isn’t designed for muggles, but it might be given to them and/or eventually sold to the general public at which point Lumintop might get a flood of complaints for an actual feature thinking the light is a POS. I would hate to sour Lumintop’s experience with BLF. (Sure, they could turn that off for the public version, but would they?)
My 2¢
I stick by my A, D, and non-committal C vote.
I think this will be a great pocket edc. and am looking forward to the completed product.
—
“Facts don’t care about your feelings.”
~Ben Shapiro
My vote is for A D, but I’m Ok with C. People (muggles) already complain about the flickers in the GT and Q8. We don’t need extra indicators to really confuse the muggles…
What flickers? The blink at each end of the ramp? I maybe could understand a muggle asking what it is, but not complaining about it. I’ve heard zero complaints personally.
There is also a blink in the middle at highest regulation level (I think). So, yes, people that don’t know what it is think they have a malfunctioning light. I have seen a few complaints on FB groups.
No, this isn’t designed for muggles, but it might be given to them and/or eventually sold to the general public at which point Lumintop might get a flood of complaints for an actual feature thinking the light is a POS. I would hate to sour Lumintop’s experience with BLF. (Sure, they could turn that off for the public version, but would they?)
My 2¢
I stick by my A, D, and non-committal C vote.
I think this will be a great pocket edc. and am looking forward to the completed product.
How about making the blinks at 1×7135 and 8×7135 configurable? Maybe the default is no blinks. But have a hidden configuration option that would let the end-user turn on the blinks if desired.
That way you get the best of both worlds: Smooth interface for muggles, with the option to go to a more detailed interface for flashaholics.
My vote is for A D, but I’m Ok with C. People (muggles) already complain about the flickers in the GT and Q8. We don’t need extra indicators to really confuse the muggles…
What flickers? The blink at each end of the ramp? I maybe could understand a muggle asking what it is, but not complaining about it. I’ve heard zero complaints personally.
There is also a blink in the middle at highest regulation level (I think). So, yes, people that don’t know what it is think they have a malfunctioning light. I have seen a few complaints on FB groups.
The Q8 and GT only have the faint blinks at the top and bottom.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
I first got a few flashlights with xm-l2, xp-g2 and xp-l, and after I got my first 219C emitters I’m baffled at how someone wouldn’t like the tint and quality of the beam. I understand one not wanting to trade output for CRI, but not liking it? Preposterous!
Just out of curiosity, how difficult would it be to make it ramp down smoothly rather than distinct step downs when it starts to get too hot? Just a random thought that occurred to me, but I thought it might be one of those subtle differences that bumps up the impression of a high quality piece. I know its something that I would like to see on my D4 at least.
This may have been suggested or mentioned before; apologies if it has, Ive not yet had a chance to read through all the posts.
The modern firmware revisions that would be used in this light have seen some work, and will not only ramp down smoother (maybe not perfect; I don’t remember how it’d been going), but also ramp back up just as well if you cool it off by for instance going outside into colder air, or by putting water on it. Though this light won’t have much metal to absorb the heat, so it will not last very long before it has to step down, it should be much better at managing heat and brightness.
I own a bunch of 4000k to 5000k 219c and 219b flashlights. Although they have the highest CRI, their tint is nowhere near as beautiful as the perfect XP-L HI 4000k 5D tint, which contains no yellow/green at all. Just a beautiful neutral with a slight hint of rosiness.
But I think XPG3 R5/R6 bin would be more efficient because the XP-L HI 5D tint only goes up to V2 bin. So the XPG3 would still be the ideal emitter for this light.
Hmm… 50 grams was the weight I heard for this one; that amount of silver is about $30… interesting.
The specific weight of silver is about 4 times the specific weight of aluminum. So, if you want your silver light to be as big as your aluminum light, you need 200 grams of it. Well, make that 150-160 gram. Because the reflector, lens, led-board, driver and switch are the same.
—
You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.
The modern firmware revisions that would be used in this light have seen some work, and will not only ramp down smoother (maybe not perfect; I don’t remember how it’d been going), but also ramp back up just as well if you cool it off by for instance going outside into colder air, or by putting water on it.
Hold on, I don’t remember the driver circuitry being that advanced. Maybe ToyKeeper can clarify.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Hmm… 50 grams was the weight I heard for this one; that amount of silver is about $30… interesting.
The specific weight of silver is about 4 times the specific weight of aluminum. So, if you want your silver light to be as big as your aluminum light, you need 200 grams of it. Well, make that 150-160 gram. Because the reflector, lens, led-board, driver and switch are the same.
Derp; I absolutely was way too distracted when I said that. Density matters, who’da thunk it. Thanks for the reminder.
The modern firmware revisions that would be used in this light have seen some work, and will not only ramp down smoother (maybe not perfect; I don't remember how it'd been going), *but also ramp back up* just as well if you cool it off by for instance going outside into colder air, or by putting water on it.
Hold on, I don't remember the driver circuitry being that advanced. Maybe ToyKeeper can clarify.
I'm sure she could elaborate, but the plan is it's going to be a PID like job, which is a big step up from current lights. There's a bunch of code you can read over if you want to dig around in here. I think it was closer to PD than PID when I last checked, but as to whether the code will step back up after a step down if the light cools off, it's definitely going to be capable of that.
… just as well if you cool it off by for instance going outside into colder air, or by putting water on it.
Hold on, I don’t remember the driver circuitry being that advanced. Maybe ToyKeeper can clarify.
It is not the driver it’s in the software.
If throttled for thermal reasons and you put ice on a D4 it gets brighter. Same as FW3A.
If you flash Andúril on the Q8 it should also work. But you need to get the regulation right for every type of lamp.
Fixed a bug in thermal regulation and LVP, which were both running about 1000X faster than intended. So, those work again. Thermal regulation uses 512 internal steps while searching for a sustainable level, which makes the adjustments invisible by eye. A lux meter is needed to see what it’s doing.
Fixed a bug in thermal regulation and LVP, which were both running about 1000X faster than intended. So, those work again. Thermal regulation uses 512 internal steps while searching for a sustainable level, which makes the adjustments invisible by eye. A lux meter is needed to see what it’s doing.
Thats exactly what I was hoping for, just havent read that far yet. Thanks!
I’m not a fan of the 219C. I have a D4 with that and don’t like it. Produces just as much heat as XPL HI, while producing far less light.
My first group buy purchase, so hope I’m following protocol here…
1 please!
My first group buy purchase, so hope I’m following protocol here…
1 please!
Yeah, definitely no point in using the 219c. Just the heat to light ratio should disqualify it for this light application.
Well, that’s the price of CRI and a tint that doesn’t change to purple near the edges. I don’t like the tint of the 219c’s in my d4 as much as I do the middle of the spot from 3d xpl’s; the 5000k is actually a bit over that cct instead of under; but it’s nice enough otherwise and plenty bright. I’ve got the q8 with the 3d xpl’s and vtc6’s and I like them well enough, but I only run a sanyo ga in my d4. I can see it will be hard to pick one option…
We need a silver version too!
Also put my vote down for a nichia emitter
Hmm… 50 grams was the weight I heard for this one; that amount of silver is about $30… interesting.
There is also a blink in the middle at highest regulation level (I think). So, yes, people that don’t know what it is think they have a malfunctioning light. I have seen a few complaints on FB groups.
No, this isn’t designed for muggles, but it might be given to them and/or eventually sold to the general public at which point Lumintop might get a flood of complaints for an actual feature thinking the light is a POS. I would hate to sour Lumintop’s experience with BLF. (Sure, they could turn that off for the public version, but would they?)
My 2¢
I stick by my A, D, and non-committal C vote.
I think this will be a great pocket edc. and am looking forward to the completed product.
“Facts don’t care about your feelings.”
~Ben Shapiro
That way you get the best of both worlds: Smooth interface for muggles, with the option to go to a more detailed interface for flashaholics.
The Q8 and GT only have the faint blinks at the top and bottom.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Hi guys – please add me to the list for one. Thx!
please add me to list NW
I first got a few flashlights with xm-l2, xp-g2 and xp-l, and after I got my first 219C emitters I’m baffled at how someone wouldn’t like the tint and quality of the beam. I understand one not wanting to trade output for CRI, but not liking it? Preposterous!
In my Tree
My collection: Emisar: D4 / D1 / D4 (broken) ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / HC33 / TIP / TIP CRI / TINI ― Lumintop: Tool AAA / Tool AA / HLAAA / EDC05 ― Sofirn: SF10 / SF12 / SF12 / SF14 / SF14 / SF14 / SP10A / SP10A (gifted) ― Jaxman: E3 ― UTorch: UT01 ― Trustfire: Z2 ― Skyfire: SF-065 (trashed)
Just out of curiosity, how difficult would it be to make it ramp down smoothly rather than distinct step downs when it starts to get too hot? Just a random thought that occurred to me, but I thought it might be one of those subtle differences that bumps up the impression of a high quality piece. I know its something that I would like to see on my D4 at least.
This may have been suggested or mentioned before; apologies if it has, Ive not yet had a chance to read through all the posts.
The modern firmware revisions that would be used in this light have seen some work, and will not only ramp down smoother (maybe not perfect; I don’t remember how it’d been going), but also ramp back up just as well if you cool it off by for instance going outside into colder air, or by putting water on it. Though this light won’t have much metal to absorb the heat, so it will not last very long before it has to step down, it should be much better at managing heat and brightness.
I am interested in 2 please..
I own a bunch of 4000k to 5000k 219c and 219b flashlights. Although they have the highest CRI, their tint is nowhere near as beautiful as the perfect XP-L HI 4000k 5D tint, which contains no yellow/green at all. Just a beautiful neutral with a slight hint of rosiness.
But I think XPG3 R5/R6 bin would be more efficient because the XP-L HI 5D tint only goes up to V2 bin. So the XPG3 would still be the ideal emitter for this light.
The specific weight of silver is about 4 times the specific weight of aluminum. So, if you want your silver light to be as big as your aluminum light, you need 200 grams of it. Well, make that 150-160 gram. Because the reflector, lens, led-board, driver and switch are the same.
You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.
Hold on, I don’t remember the driver circuitry being that advanced. Maybe ToyKeeper can clarify.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Derp; I absolutely was way too distracted when I said that. Density matters, who’da thunk it. Thanks for the reminder.
See Post Interest list updated by pepinfaxera
Your name is on the list updated by pepinfaxera: nº # 1008
Your name is on the list updated by pepinfaxera: nº # 1008 and # 1061
Sorry for my bad English
(google translator) , (https://www.deepl.com/translator)
It is not the driver it’s in the software.
If throttled for thermal reasons and you put ice on a D4 it gets brighter. Same as FW3A.
If you flash Andúril on the Q8 it should also work. But you need to get the regulation right for every type of lamp.
It seems it’s already done
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1267460#comment-1267460
Thats exactly what I was hoping for, just havent read that far yet. Thanks!
Im new this whole thing as well please put me down for one (1)
I’ll take 4
808Hi
I’ll take 4.
Thanks
cjoe
Your name is on the list updated by pepinfaxera: nº # 1036 , # 1041 , # 1042 and 1047, … Total 4 units .
.
.See Post Interest list updated by pepinfaxera
.
regards
Sorry for my bad English
(google translator) , (https://www.deepl.com/translator)
.
How many lanterns do you want in total? . . . … 8 units? .
Sorry for my bad English
(google translator) , (https://www.deepl.com/translator)
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