BLF GT official support thread [FAQ updated 11 Jan 2018]

+1… Well said.

Also remember you are on your own if you decide to do this.

If you screw up that one time & burn or blow up your light… don’t complain. You did it to yourself. Any warranty WILL NOT apply. :wink:

BE CAREFUL IF YOU DO THIS!!!

Yes people please be careful!

And all of you members in the U.S. that have those older battery carrier lights, Acebeam Lumintop, Phoenix, Thrunite and such, I’m willing as a public service to take those off your hands, so PM me and we will set something up (might be willing to pay for shipping for the really dangerous/possibly lethal 6-8 cell non protected carrier lights) so I can dispose of them properly for you! :wink:

So please, do it now, before it’s too late!

I can help about this and take care of EU users :stuck_out_tongue:

I knew somebody would step up and help out our BLF European Brothers and Sisters!

I commend your for your brave and selfless service to the BLF community Sir! :beer: :+1:

I sold an HID light several years ago because the battery died, this was before I realized it could be rebuilt for less then the $80 they wanted for a new battery.

Texas_Ace, chrisc

Out of curiosity, did anything ever happen with The Gadget Show?
Would be very interesting to see how much they can misrepresent a light like this because “its too big”. Its been many years since I have watched an episode and not needed a heap of salt to go with what they say…

how did you got it open?

With this ones:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B003XMWQOU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It doesn´t work with mine BLF GT.

Did you loosen the head first?

I showed how I did it in post #93.

Loosen the head first, then the bezel if you need to.

+1 +2 +3

Yep. Only do at your own risk.....

I have no idea actually. ChrisC was the one talking to them and I never heard anything more after the last contact with them.

Well, the gadget show has its own thread:

after someplaying i found time to notice my Turbo is only 7% more Lumens (ceilingbounce in 3 locations) than full ramp :(

using my BenchPowerSupply (@16,8V) it draws 1,9A full ramped and 2,5A on Turbo

any idea?

btw:
using 4 30Q BT i get 1% lower numbers in front cage, and 3% lower numbers in rear cage

Yep, exactly what it should be. 2A at the top of the ramp and 2.5A in turbo.

Lumens are not linear. They drop exponentially as power increases, which is why the ramp stops at 2A, over that you do not gain much.

You can see this is the LED test here:

In testing I was barely able to see any difference between Turbo and High. From memory I measured just over 10% difference in output but that was with the proto led.
High should be 2 amps at the led and turbo 2.5 amps.

Here is MRsDNF runtime chart for 4 30Q from post #4 of the main GT thread. You can see that at 2.5A your run times suffer quite a bit (blue line). At 2A the runtimes are much better (red line). So for short usage where you need max output turbo makes sense, but for long runtimes (at almost the same output) it’s better to use 2A.

If you look at that 160 line (roughly when output starts to drop) the 2.5A reaches it in 35 minutes. The 2A reaches it in 55 minutes. At the 2A setting you get a 57% boost in run time for a tiny bit less output! I think it’s for this very reason that NarsilM v1.2 was designed to have the ramp stop short of max. (Correct me if I’m wrong)

So 2A is definitely the mode to run for practical purposes and longer run times. The 2.5A is there for max output and distance even though it drains the batteries way faster.

Same to mine, but Texas_Ace is right.

Lumens are not linear.

From high 2,0A (2490lm) to turbo 2,5A (2630lm) there is only a higher output of 5,62, so 7 are not bad ;).
Or from 1,9A (about 2440lm) to 2,5A about 7,7% in your case.

If I will get open the GT, a TLF colleague will programm the driver with ramping to 100% output (2,5A) and also put a XHP35 Hi E2 3C 5000K on it.

Ramping to 100% is good for me, because I want to use ramping and I don´t like the short flicker if I will change to turbo with double click.

I know this short break (light off) is necessary, if you don´t want to flash the light in turbo for a short time, if you will use the battery level indicator or the electronical lockout.

sorry for my poor English ;).

The XHP35HI is maxed out at around 2.5amps so you cant expect to many more lumens. Plus it depends on the binning of the LED.

New binning is E2 instead of D4.
Amps will be same at 2,5A.

Binning D4 is about 550lm at 85°C at 350mA and about 4,8 times more at 2500mA (2630lm, Test Texas_Ace).

I know that calculated lumen are most not correct, but I hope, that with Binning E2 I can get:
Binning E2 about 590lm at 85°C at 350mA and about 4,8 times more at 2500mA, so about 2850lm, so about 8% more lumen output and perhaps 8% more range.

that is very optimistic I know… :wink:

8% more lumen and sqrt(8) = 3,9 more range.

Really?
So I don´t change the LED… and don´t need to open the flashlight.
Driver can be removed easily.

Thanks