I don’t know yet, maybe a custom battery tube would need to be made. That would actually be a better solution anyhow because I could skip the p60 pill (bad for heatsinking) and integrate the heatsink into the battery tube.
Such a tripple might actually pull too much current though pushing the LEDs past their maximum brightness.
BTW: Samsung 35T are already listed here.
Can somebody post a link for the MZ 90CRI 3v 5700K from digikey? I can’t seem to find the correct one.
Those Luxeon MZs are definitely rather expensive for such small LEDs.
Since max power dissipation is 15W for the FET on the LED PCB, the max current should be much, much higher than 25A? Which FET are you using? What is the internal resistance when it is “on”?
Also, would it be possible that you offer a FET-based switch like this ? It makes a lot of sense for DD lights.
Thanks!
Just place an order for the Lux V. Thanks!
MZ leds are not small at all, at least not by total die size area,which is ~8mm2 - they are equivalent to non-existing XHP50(.2) HI.
On mosX boards mosfet can handle a lot of power, more than 25Amps is it works in DD mode, I use PSMN2R4 mosfets in lfpak33 package.I agree that 1288 switches are not enough these days.
They cost twice as much as the XHP50.2.
Thanks. So it has a typical resistance of 2.6mOhm (max 3.2).
I’m not sure how to read the datasheet regarding maximum current. 70A seems to require a high voltage?
MZ 3 years old LED, at that time 8mm^2 of die area for 7-8€ was ok price.
On mosX it can handle enough current for any flashlight application, other components are usually more challenging at 20+Amps.
By looking at the datasheets of both it should be reasonably compatible. Luxeon MZ light emitting area seems to be around 3x3mm, which would mean around 4.25mm diagonal. CUTE-3 bottom hole diameter is 4.4mm according to the datasheet, so it would work but for best efficiency the optics would probably have to sit lower than the default.
I haven’t checked if CUTE-4-SS bottom holes are the same but I would guess they are.
CUTE-3-M is basically the same optic as CUTE-3-SS but with a stronger honeycomb pattern.
CUTE-3-W seems to be shaped differently and have wider bottom holes, I guess it should provide the best compatibility but it will have basically no throw.
There are few versions of CUTE-3-SS and 4-SS, and they have different tir shapes, for ex. XR versions have bigger entrance holes and smaller tir area.
For those of us looking for e-switch drivers, do you still have LD2’s?
No, LD-2/3 are not available anymore.
I finally tried 0805 RGB slow flashing LEDs on ILC-0 to see if they work. I think djozz is the first one that tried to use them in illuminated tailcaps: RGB tailcap flash
Problem is RGB flashing LEDs draw too much current with low resistor values, and with normal bleeder values LEDs spend quite a bit of time in red only mode, and stay almost 100% of time in red when battery voltage drops below 3.8V or so.
ILC-0 RGB actually works nicely, but only when used in combination with LD-x4's bleeding which limits current to ~1mA max. with fresh battery. With 380Ohm resistor bleeder, it works but tailcap is too bright (2-3mA) and spends a lot of time in red mode after some time, and usually most leds have similar transitions.
With ILC-0 RGB + LD-x4 bleeding colors become random for each LED after few minutes which looks great, and tailcap doesn't stuck in red mode.After 12hrs test it still works the same way. Below ~3.8V blue becomes more rare, and below ~3.5V green appearance is also more scarce, so when battery is nearly empty red is dominant - nice "self-made" feature. Below 3V ILC-0 goes to sleep like any other ILC-0 and consumes 1.2uA, so battery is safe from over-discharging.
Random color mix looks really nice,but it's hard to capture it without good camera, here is one capture with non-pro camera(colors in reality are much more saturated):
I'll try to make a video tonight with two tailcaps, one with LD-x4, other with resistor bleeder.
Few videos:
In this video tailcap on left is in light with LD-x4 driver vs. light on right with 380Ohm resistor bleeder:
After few minutes light with resistor bleeder doesn't really works, it's mostly in red mode for a long time, with occasional short green color appearance, blue doesn't show up at all even with fresh battery.
led4power, did you consider making complete LED engines with LEDs and driver on a single DTP board?
For like a light fixture or something? Curious what is the purpose of that.
Flashlights.
Frankly, sometimes I’m just throwing ideas around to see if they resonate. This is one of the cases.
We know that some light makers do light engines like that.
But all that I’ve seen use non-DTP boards for that.
It seems to me that the led4power tech would be better in this regard.
Such use has a number of benefits, but also creates some problems.
And even if it makes technical sense, for almost all hosts it won’t be significantly better than separate board because they already have space for such board. But maybe there are benefits other than size? Or maybe there’s a market that I don’t see?
I’m curious what people, especially led4power, think about it.
It definitely has it’s use in some lights. Not sure about the market value for someone to make them though, to me it seems more a custom job for specific lights.
Yes I guess it’s like putting a $120 371D driver in a Convoy S2+. I’ve seen people do it but not sure why.