The DRY is 47mm and uses 3*18650, Nitecore TM11 is 50mm and uses 4*18650, so much betetr design on the TM11. Now if the King didn't had that large back end it would have been just perfect.
A 3-emitter light with 3-mode WITH strobe...
Why not make it a one mode only, drive with 0,5A and set the PWM on 20Hz tops and consider it to be well driven 1-mode 24/7 strobe...
You could also leave out the on/off button. Useless, insert batteries and it´s on! Yey...
I seriously doubt it'll have the issues the TM-11 is experiencing due to the fact it has a completely different driver and less complex UI. As for heat dissipation, you really can't run any of these compact 2000 lumen lights on high (Turbo) mode for very long anyway. But a medium setting would have been better rather than , high-low-strobe.
They seem to have done a nice job copying the basics for the TM-11, so I'd say it's a fair bet it'll handle the heat much in the same way. I can't wait to get my hands on one of these.
4x18650 in parallel? how about driver?
I don't know about the driver, but it's designed for parallel from this photo.
Where? And are they better than the 3xXML that this thread is about.
Just take a look at the second link and look at the size of that driver.............
Its almost as big as the tube. I mean BIG !!!
Looks good except the bold color choice. However, it's a Sky Ray and that right there makes me nervous. I just can't spend any serious amount of money on a Sky Ray product considering the number of poor experiences with their original triple XM-L offering.
Have your 7135 drivers ready for when it burns up...
See post #11
No thanks. It's a FryRay.
Who cares about the colour and frying driver, you use it for not more than 4 mins at a time. (TM11 would cut in at about 8-9 minutes). It's TM11 size!!
EDC?
Problem is that the TR-J12 5xXM-L is already an amazing flashlight. But this one has 4 x 18650 and it's 80 bucks.
Extreme runtime for 200-400 lumens...good enough. My experience is that other than for very low light work like visual astronomy work (with red filter), point zero X and few lumens usage is literally of no use in real life for most of us. Few lumens for going to the toilet use....
Wow. Not often does a clone come out that looks this good and tempting. I am eager to see a review or two on this thing!
Honestly I wasn't expecting a TM-11 clone, or at least not one that looked so similar in size with a side switch for that price range.
What i am also afraid is that DX would come out with one for 68 bucks. hehe....
I have the Solarforce L2P "Yellow", which is a lighter shade of the current Gold version. It looks ok actually...this one would be quite close.
Very tempted to pull the trigger. But I just purchased a bit of telescopes/eyepieces/accessories, and waiting for my wife to find out about that purchase! 
Looks like Nitecore TM11 clone to me 
This is made by Skyray, hopefully this will not be another "Fryray"... (like some members here mentioned about?). And I am curious about its current draw, 3A or above? Not?
2100, I care about the frying driver...
If frying drivers bother you and one does not have the discipline to run it under 3-4 minutes, then you'd need to go Nitecore TM11.... (thermally regulated). The issue is usually that the driver components/design are somewhat inefficient and as you know the drivers are not exactly heatsinked well. Boost drivers are the worst of the lot, lots of current + inefficiency. Coupled with the heat from triple XM-Ls plus lightweight light (not sufficient "heat mass"), operating in such conditions for > 5 hrs total is already very good.
In Indonesia during CNY, i actually gunned the Xtar S1 24 by 7, just kept feeding it with 18650s and recharging 24 x 7. 24 x 7 also was the operation mode for the UF-H2 and UF-H3. Very nice.
PS. Output was at the absolutely lowest, of course.
quality doesnt come cheap
Since I won't have to purchase another set of batteries and have on hand 4 Redilast 18650-2600's, I decided to place an order for this light. If something turns out to be wrong with the electronics, I don't know if it would be worth sending it back. In that case, I'll be depending on members of this forum to give me a hand helping me find a driver to make the repair myself. Thanks folks.