New binning is E2 instead of D4.
Amps will be same at 2,5A.
Binning D4 is about 550lm at 85°C at 350mA and about 4,8 times more at 2500mA (2630lm, Test Texas_Ace).
I know that calculated lumen are most not correct, but I hope, that with Binning E2 I can get:
Binning E2 about 590lm at 85°C at 350mA and about 4,8 times more at 2500mA, so about 2850lm, so about 8% more lumen output and perhaps 8% more range.
that is very optimistic I know… 
8% more lumen and sqrt(8) = 3,9 more range.
Really?
So I don´t change the LED… and don´t need to open the flashlight.
Driver can be removed easily.
Thanks
I’m really lost on what your saying here. Are you trying to remove the driver?
If your wanting to reflash it you have room to do so without removing it. Check post #33 and you can see the room you have.
I calculated the square root of 1,08 wich is 1,039.
I don´t have know how and equipment for flashing drivers, so I removed driver and switch board and will send it to a colleague.
Driver will be reflashed with NarsilM, but with changing Ramping up to 100% (2,5A).
LEDs on switch board will be changed to blue or orange, or complete switchboard will be changed.
I like blue and orange indicator very well.
thanks.
Thanks Wieselflinkpro :+1:
I changed the LED of my faulty BLF GT and fitted a 2nd centering piece. I made some more pics:
German: Superthrower Lumintop BLF GT - Laberthread und Versand | Taschenlampen Forum
English: Superthrower Lumintop BLF GT - Laberthread und Versand | Taschenlampen Forum
Picture-Galery:BLF GT | Taschenlampen Forum
nice idea with that centering piece!
Danke fürs zeigen!
I have seen it somewhere in the GT-Thread.
I am the second who showed it.
I’m not sure who to send this to so please excuse me ,To anyone that could help me Thank You
I haven’t heard anything about my BLF GT w/batteries starting to get a little concerned at this point if it will ever show up, could someone please let me know what’s going on ,Thank You I think I was # 975 I paid for it on 12-10-2017,Thank You I’m not sure if this is the right Neal to contact.
Any Help would be greatly appreciated…
Check post #1 of the GT thread. The last orders (about 50 lights) should be picked up by the shippers today. Sometime after that Neal will get the tracking numbers and send them out to the customers. That’s the latest news I’ve heard.
Just noticed something strange; when I turn on the GT it flashes 3 times and then dims a bit. If I perform the battery test (triple tick) it looks like it is indicating 2.2V? I have tested (and recharged) the batteries and they are at 4.2V.
Also, sometimes when I turn on the light it flashes 8 times and then switches off. I have performed a ‘factory reset’ (perhaps my son played around with it and messed up the configuration) but this gives the same results. What could this be?
That is very strange. It is possible that the resistor that lets the driver know the voltage is messed up I suppose but it is a rather odd thing to have happen.
Are you using button top cells?
Did it always do this? Or did it just start doing it?
NarsilM thinks the voltage is too low.
3 blinks indicate low voltage protection kicks in and the lamp steps back.
But I have no clue about the reason
I ordered the light together with the recommended button top batteries (so directly from Lumintop).
It has been working fine for the last few weeks, last night I saw the issue for the first time and decided to look into it this evening.
Personally I’m not that handy with a soldering iron but I have some colleagues who are; is there a way they can test if the resistor is not functioning properly?
Hmm, that is very strange indeed, particularly if it was working and is not now. That makes even less sense.
First thing I would do is rule out the batteries and carriers. First look over both carriers by eye for any signs of damage, shorts, loose or missing screws. Then try some other cells if you have them. Only use one carrier, try that single carrier in both the front and back position, try the other carrier ect.
See if any combo of cells and carrier makes a difference.
If none of that helps at all, then I think we have ruled out the cells and carrier and the issue must lie in the driver.
Next step would be to pull out the driver, this is pretty simple and you can try getting a good picture of it for us to look at. See if you notice any shorts or missing components.
Do you have the ability to reflash the mcu?
Thanks for your rapid response; I will try everything you mentioned above and report back here with the results.
I have no experience with reflashing an mcu but always can dive into that if needed…
Reflashing the MCU should not be needed, it is just another thing that is reasonably easy to test if you have the flasher.
Do you have a multimeter? That will be needed to test the voltage on the driver if nothing else works.
If you have a multi meter, you can also test the 4 cells when they’re mounted in the carrier and make sure they are around 16+ volts.
Yes, another good test to run.
