New VirEnce MCPCB for E17/E21/119/144/233U

Nice, I’m planning the same on my wizard, but with a pretty wild combo of emitters :smiley:
2x 3000k + 5000k + 6500k. I’m curious how the resulting tint will look. Should be around 4500k I guess.

Based on Maukka’s test. The 6500K is closer to 7000K. So you can use this info for your next mix.

- Clemence

The result might lean closer to 5000k then, especially since the cooler emitters are a bit more efficient.

New VR16SP4 (alpha board) thermal test result from Jensen567:

At the same 5A the new board is 26C cooler. Peaked in ~6A (the resolution used was 500mA). Using my previous lux-current test result, the peak should be ~6,4A (3,1A/LED). As you can see from the phosphor temp result, the BLF max rating is 4,8-5 A in 2s2p config (2,4A/LED).

Thanks to Jensen567!

- Clemence

So if I ordered a VR16SP4 WITH 4 E21 SM403’’ and put them in a Convoy S2+ or S3 with a MTN 17DDm would I want to MCPCB set up as 3V, 6V, 9V, or 12V? I’m really curious to see how these would perform in a Convoy S2+ or S3 host with a high drain 18650.

I supposed the new 3, 6, 12V order received is yours. Only heavy OP reflector and pebbled/frosted/faceted TIR optics will work with the new quadtrix board. The extra gap made for maximum performance creates donut with SMO/plain tight TIR optics.

- Clemence

No wasn’t me, I don’t want to order until I figure out how I should set the LED’s up. Would it be possible to run these on a 8x 7135 driver at 3 volts or 6 volts?

I can’t comment on this since I never use/try any 7135 based drivers. As long as the drivers of your choice designed for 3/6/9/12V LED config it’s good to go. The max safe current limit (BLF max) for each configurations (using 4 x E21A) are: 10A(5,6A) for 3V, 5A(2,8A) for 6V, and 2,5A(1,4A) for both 9V / 12V. Lower values in brackets are OEM L70 50.000 hours absolute max.

- Clemence

I can confirm quad E21A works very well with 7135*8 driver: What did you mod today? - #4693 by g_damian

However FET fot that configuration is not the best choice. I tried quad E21A with Lexel’s bistro-hd driver and it ended very fast, I saw 16A on clamp meter, then one of E21A died… :frowning:

It itches me to find a pair of jumpers to connect the pairs of minus soldering pads of a quad board. With the jumpers closed all 4 LEDs are powered with jumpers open - just 2 LEDs. In my new 2x 5000K + 2x 6500K config it’d give me an easy access to 6500K, 6200K, and 5700K output. Just screw out the bezel, pop in/out the jumper(s) and put the bezel back.

Someting like these or ” these”:http://www.mac8japan.com/parts/smt/jumper/hhp.html, but with a lower profile .

DIP switches would be much better but I don’t think there exists one that small for 1+amp

I noticed today the VR16S1 I’ve been testing for a few weeks is ever so slightly too large for the cutout in my Wizard Pro, which meant it hadn’t been making any contact with the body of the light. To get it to contact the surface I had to file a tiny bit off all the edges of the MCPCB and carefully deburr everything. It’s now seated properly and making good contact. Performance isn’t a whole lot different, at least on 18350, which I assume is because the 6V emitter is very underdriven. I will have to make similar adjustments to the VR16SP4.

Posting this just to prove it actually worked before I put it out of its misery :smiley:

This was mostly just very rough job to see how easy the VR16SP4 is to modify for the Wizard. Definitely not something you want to do with a populated board you care about, since the phosphor coating is just as fragile as reported. Now of course I need to order more boards…

You can rework it, just change the damaged LED only. With careful handling reflow soldering E21A is relatively easy, it takes more time though. Avoid using lead free solder whenever possible.

- Clemence

I actually had to reflow a couple of the LEDs already and was surprised to find it wasn’t too difficult. I only want to replace the MCPCB because the alteration I made is pretty ugly and I want extras for other lights :wink:

Clemence, do you still have the old gapless quad boards for sale? Looks like if the board is shifted so that 2 of the 4 LEDs are centered then their dies are in quite a good focus in an aspheric, even with the gap between the LEDs, the gapless board is going to be even better.

The plan is to sand and recenter the board with just 2 individually adressable LEDs, in a way that djozz did in his triple setup with the rgbw driver, so they would never operate at the same time.

Why? I am in love with the 2000K E21 (had never imagined that) and want to have it for the low modes

Clemence, are you still planning to proceed with triple boards? I really hope so. Just in case it is not too late to suggest things: it would be great to have individual addressing for color mixing.

Are you aware of Charles Wiggins dragon 2-channel driver?

I wonder if there is a alternative 16mm mcpcb that would host more than 3 Optisolii, clustered around the center point? Either 4x like those quadrix one for e21a, or 5x, cross type, or 6x = 2x3? The more the better, ideally I am dreaming of the LEDs populating the entire board and creating kind of light emitting honeycomb.

- Clemence

Thanks Clemence, I am aware of these. But they are 20mm sized so would not fit an aleph head which I prefer now. And the location of the pads is not ideal for a mule.

You can make your own using thin copper and JBweld.