Thanks Funner, OK I see, I thought you wrote the E6 cost $10, now I see it was the dropins, sorry, my eyes were deceiving me from sleep deprivation!
I did find a discount code for KD, kd5off for 5% off, its not much but better than nothing.
EDIT: The code only works on items that aren’t already discounted, so it won’t work on the E6 hosts because those prices are showing as a “Discount price”
Same goes for the XP-L and Nichia drop-ins.
When a flashlight gets hot, in one way its a good thing… means the heat is transferring away from the LED and into the body, making the body a heat sink to take heat away from the LED.
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No offense meant, but this is pretty much a contradiction of terms. If it did a great job with transferring heat, it wouldn’t stay really cool.
For the P60 lights the body won’t get hot because the heat stays in the dropin (poor heat transfer to the body due to the air gap) that’s why people wrap those dropins. For the most part I think it’s not necessary with low current “off the shelf” dropins, but if you build your own hot-rodded dropins they’ll need wrapped.
I wish KD made an 18350 or 18500 tube for the it.
I wonder if the E6 will lego with Solarforce, anyone know?
Just noticed KD’s newer drop-ins are upgraded with large brass pill for better heat dissipation, nice!
http://www.kaidomain.com/Search/SearchResult.New%20KDLITKER%20P6
I just turned it on for a couple of minutes until it warmed up. The heat transfer throughout the upper half of the body vs my S2+ which the heat is in one spot. Which makes it more difficult to notice.
After it was on I then pulled out the drop in and the heat was the same as the flashlight body.
I will put the drop in in another light to feel the heat transfer.
The E6 host seems to spread the heat out through the whole end of the light.
Every time I use it it has been outdoors where the temp is 20-40 F so that helps to keep it cool and that is why I noticed almost no heat.
One thing I have noticed with the E6 is if. You jar, shake it, tap it hard, or tap it hard on the counter it will change modes.
I would think stiffer springs would resolve this. With 2. Batteries it is more likely, I think because the more moving weight of those 2 vs 1 battery.
I will see if I have some stiffer springs or make a double spring setup. I did try stretching the springs a bit and it seemed to help, stretching a bit more would probably help. Or adding a copper spacer with nylon outside would tighten the tension on the springs helping this.
Still like the light though.
Great, thanks for the testing, sounds good!
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Are you using a flat-top/short/unprotected cell, or a longer button-top protected one?
Maybe blob some solder on the end of one spring?
Or a magnet on the cell?
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Also do you have any Solarforce lights/host to see if the tubes/threads lego with the E6?
Pretty sure they don’t LEGO
Tried the solarforce ring guard tail cap and it doesn’t work.
There’s a gap of almost a cm when you screw the head on the front end too - the light still works but the kdlitker when on a solarforce body the p60 globe moves around.
It might be amusing to try one of the silly solarforce attack bezel rings on the front - I will maybe give it a try later today after I wake up if I remember.
do you know if these hosts are compatible with p60 heads, tailcaps and bezels?
They aren’t compatible with solarforce stuff.
I don’t have any surefire lights to test them out with sorry.
I just bought the e6s, and I am getting ready to purchase batteries for it, the batteries that they sell On kaidomain are 69mm, would it be okay to get batteries that are slightly shorter (like the 30q buttontop) or should I try to shoot for batteries that are round 69 mm. Ty for any help!
I just purchased the KDLITKER E6 with triple (individual colour) XP-E drop-in (I chose red, blue, and amber options) and have to say that it is an amazingly good value for money light. About 50% brighter than the RGBW Ledlenser P7QC, but at 25% of the price. A review will be coming soon!
I’m thinking I should pick up the new 21700 version of this. Put myself together a high capacity EDC tube light. Looks perfect for that. I already have a bunch of drop-ins. Perhaps I will de-ano it too.
Just be aware that there is no tactical ring for the 21700 yet, do if you need that (I do to stop the light rolling) you might want to stick with the 18650 version.
I’ll probably just make some kind of lanyard that I can use to prevent it rolling. There’s no momentary on with the reverse clicky, so I don’t really need the tac ring for that. I wonder if the tailcap would take a McClicky?
Hello all!
I bought a KDlitker E6S (18650) with a far red (730nm) module for rat hunting 
I am wondering if there is a remote switch that fits this flashlight?
Thank you!
Regards
Christian
Will this tail cap accommodate a McClicky switch?
I checked one of mine the other day and it appears to have the same switch type (Omten 1288 looking switch) and pcb dimensions as a Convoy S2+. (i.e. small diameter.) I’ve got both the 18650 and 21700 versions.
Let me know if you want actual measurements.
Well I just tried and found that he thick threaded shoulder of the McClicky will not fit in the space of the original E6 cap.
I’ll search for a different style of fwd clicky.
Post up what you find.
I was contemplating just buying some Convoy S2+ Omten 1288 switches- fitted with the better springs for mine. I need to double check the diameter is okay first though. The springs Kaidomain use are a bit “lightweight” in tension and diameter. I’m not sure what brand the switch is either.
