What did you mod today?

Nice job, you made it smoother than mine!

I put an E21A 2000K 90CRI led in my Tool AA, on one of my 119 boards. Centering is always a challenge with this led but I got it done well. I used a sanded down to paper-thin centerpiece to get the reflector at the correct height, but the hole was too big so it needed some shuffling around until the reflector sat right over the led.

On max: 50 lumen on an Eneloop, 200 lumen (1.6A) on a Soshine 900mAh 14500.

This led is a real reflector tester; in the Olight M10 Maverick I got a perfect beam, in this Tool AA some ringing occurs (Olight:1 - Lumintop:zero).

Another Lumintop meh: at the 3 lumen low on an Eneloop I measured 76mA !! That should be less than 35 if the boosting is anywhere near efficient.

New definition of pocket rocket? :smiling_imp: :smiley:

Made some minor tweaks to my C8

I have filed down the reflector even more and now the bottom is really thin, just as the gasket, i think this is all i can get out of it, very happy.

To clean it i have rinsed it using running tap water and blew it out using my new dust blower which recently arrived. After that i used 70% rubbing alcohol which i still had lying around (kidsā€¦) and used cotton wool which worked great.
Blew it out once again and it ended up really well!

XPL-HI V3-1A with BLF X6 driver

Where did u get the stainless steel bezel?

It look nice

Please scroll up :slight_smile:
Itā€™s the standard C8 SS bezel, filed down.

I did some brain surgery on my modded Tiara today. Some time ago, the switch bezel was a bit loose, and carefully tapping it down somehow resulted in the tiny SMD switch exploding into a bunch of little pieces. I set it aside until I was a bit more experienced at soldering, but ordered some replacement tactile switches in the mean time.

Itā€™s a somewhat involved ā€œmodā€ because the switch board isnā€™t really accessible without removing the front bezel and desoldering the three tiny control wires attached to the back. In my case, I had to melt the optic to make a channel to grab the bezel, but the approach would be different with a stock Tiara. After desoldering the leads, I used hot air to reflow the switch board and pick off the broken switch (extremely nerve wracking with those tiny components beside it), then added a replacement and put it all back together. Itā€™s working perfectly now, and Iā€™m pretty stoked I was able to complete the repair considering Iā€™d never held a soldering iron before a few weeks ago :smiley:

Good work on the Tiara. Even Armytek can not prevent their lights from being modded :smiling_imp:

Nice bling on the C8 bezel Yokiami! And that sounds like a perfect focus for the XP-L Hi.

If you build it they will come.

Then they will disassemble it, chop it up, hack all the internals, reassemble it screaming in output! Because thatā€™s how they roll at BLF. :smiley:

Must have been very difficult polishing that optic back up :smiley:

Well done :+1:

Both, might have to blow it out again using a compressor, maybe i can use the one that comes with my car, since i donā€™t own a spare tire anymore

I demolished a brand new Solarforce Z2 today, trying to get the bezel off by heat and force. The centerpiece around the has melted, the reflector started flaking bits off, the threads on the pill section were chipped open in multiple places, and the bezel will still not move.

Decided that it was a lousy host after all anyway.

I changed the LED of my faulty BLF GT and fitted a 2nd centering piece. I made some more pics:
German: Superthrower Lumintop BLF GT - Laberthread und Versand | Taschenlampen Forum
English: Superthrower Lumintop BLF GT - Laberthread und Versand | Taschenlampen Forum
Picture-Galery:BLF GT | Taschenlampen Forum

Nice job on the extra center piece! In hope that the new led will be trouble-free!

Nice job on the centering ring, ring! :+1:

I wonder if painting it black will take some of the Halo away?

Is the centering ring bar tight to the mcpcb hold down screws, or is the clearance around the screws?

Thanks!

I could paint it black, it could take a bit of the corona around the hotspot. ā€¦ but its only aditional light output wich would be lost. ā€¦ dont know, if I want to make it black.

The centering bar is not screwed donw, it lies lose on the mcpcb around the screws.

Nice job wieselflinkpro!
I tried to open my GT in the vice, without success, i definitely need to use bigger tools

A few quick documentation photos of another Armytek mod I did recently, following the excellent instructions from Clemence here. The Prime Pro bezel has no thread locker and can theoretically be removed with just friction, but mine was so tight I had to make the tool Clemence suggests here, which worked perfectly. The hardest part of the mod for me was threading the leads back through the rivet holes while working around the delicate control wires behind the switch board. My C1 Pro now has a 219C and Iā€™m using it with a slightly floody optic while waiting on a few options from Aliexpress.

I sacrificed my old C2 to get the remains of the Shadow JM35 working again, after I botched the pill removal. Driver is a CF-FX-17A. I also used an extension tube which I think I bought from DX years ago.