It was supposed to peak 1000m throw and have 300,000cd the XHP35 HI but sadly the final units didnt reach that for some reason and even more weird why post that kind of numbers if not live up to it ? 
The only light that comes close to this value is Terry’s 35 that initially did about 6000 lumens. With a spring bypass he got close to 7000 lumens, and the lux value should be close to 300k cd I guess.
Spring bypass = loss of warranty
It is typical to DD driver: higher Vf = lower current
Does anyone really care about warranties? I always void the warranty shortly after getting a light. I’m weird like that.
The 35 light does not use DD, does it? We know the 70.2 light does.
I’m not sure what kind of driver the 35 lights use. Is it possible to use a FET driver with such a large voltage difference and not get too much current and burn up the emitters?
I was thinking it might be a buck driver like you see a lot of other 4 cell (16.8v) to 12v emitter lights.
The two drivers do look very similar. I really don’t know.
>> Does anyone really care about warranties?
I’m sure many people do, even those who mod lights. I sometimes pay a premium for what I consider (or hope will be) a premium product, intending it to be plug’n’play, expecting it to last and be covered by warranty should it fail. I would certainly put a $100+ flashlight in this category.
If spring bypass make a diferences it must be DD driver.
Vf XHP35 HI in 2.3A = 14V
4 cell Sanyo GA discharged 2A ~16V
+spring resistance
+driver resistance
And the right resistor will do the trick
JasonWW i care about warranty for a 100$ light as i dont have the skills required to do it and if u dont know what u are doing its better not even try.
I have seen pictures of the driver here in this thread. The drivers looks the same, but the 35er has no AMC7135 on the driver.
I gave a link to the pictures to Lexel. I’ll report back what he thinks.
Lexel says the 35 driver looks like a 1 channel FET driver. There are no 7135 chips because 8 or so volts is about their limit.
He says they might have a limiting resistor mounted on the mcpcb to help disipate it’s heat, as apposed to being mounted on the driver.
I do remember Terry saying it was driver related and not so much a different resistor on the mcpcb, so who knows?
Has anyone seen the 35 mcpcb?
Edit: Talking about it on the GB thread, a person has said there is no limiting resistor on the mcpcb.
I can't stay on tonight. I have a ton of work to do both in the office and in the shop but, I will point out to you what TA and I have found to first off be totally unnecessary and second it is defiantly causing the flickering or people that get a blink when they try to turn it on and that is all they get is that blink they nothing.
There was a capacitor that was added to the original design and we can find no reason at all for it having been added.
I will post a picture of the capacitor that we have very carefully removed. After removing it all of the blinking and flickering issues where people were having to tighten or loosen the tail cap are all gone.
TA measured the Parasitic drain just to be sure someone did not add that to try and lower it. ANd after removing that capacitor parasitic drain is better than it was before the cap was removed. 220ua
Removing it is pretty simple as long as you have the temperature controlled on your iron and don't just go at it wide open. The side connected to the pad is the easiest side to start with, once I get that side loose I just put the tip of my iron on the capacitor itself just until it gets hot enough to pull away from the other side.
If you know what you are doing and have soldered components like this before it will be a breeze. But, if you are not familiar with soldering these types of components it would be best left to someone that has much more experience.
The back side of that capacitor connection must not be over heated, you will pretty much kill the whole driver is that tiny little part get damaged in the process.
I have been testing one of each unit for over a week now with this modification to the driver and both units are working great.
Please remember I am not telling anyone to or not to attempt removing that capacitor themselves I am only telling you what I will be spending most of the night doing to the stock I have here on hand and my next shipment as well when it arrives. So this is what was decided on as being a problem.
I will probably not be back on tonight as I said I have about 15 or 16 here that I have to do. It honestly takes longer to get to the capacitor than to remove it.
Just trying to keep you informed about things happening... LOL I had not abandoned you I just had to get to work and find the issue and get it fixed.
Someone surely decided to put it there for a reason. Is Haikelite aware of this modification that you are suggesting? I’m quite unfamiliar with drivers, but isn’t that capacitor acting like a soft start for the leds/driver by any chance?
And unless we hear differently from Dale, please remember you will be voiding your warranty by removing cap.
I reposted Terry’s above info in the GB thread as well. We were talking about the drivers over there. I was trying to. Lol
Hi guys
Need some help please, I brought this light from someone off Ebay. I can’t find it in my purchase history anymore!
I would like to know if it is the 3x CREE XHP35 - Hi or 3x CREE XHP70.2 version
I know it’s Neutral White but that’s about it!
Also has the previous guy removed the springs for better connectivity?
Thank you !!
3x CREE XHP70.2 version
looks like the first owner removed the plastic round disk so flat battery can work. I did the same with mine.
Springs are still there. The batteries are two up and two down. Be sure to place the bottom of the battery on the spring and top of the battery on the spring-less contact pad.
Thanks for the responses guys, much appreciated!
Have a good weekend!
Hi guys
Am I correct in saying that on the 3x CREE XHP70.2 version:
Max output in Neutral White is 15,000 lumens?
Max output on Cool white is 25,000?
I have the Neutral white so I am just trying to figure out what is the max lumens for the one with pics that I posted above
Thank you
Not at all, in fact, some of the NW had higher output than the CW. I don’t think any version measured as high as 25,000. They seemed to vary from about 17k-22k. Iirc.
These are direct drive lights so they are not regulated. The output will vary based on the battery used, the forward voltage of the particular leds used, how much resistance there is in the springs, etc… The only way to know for sure is to measure the output.
What batteries are you using? Do you know what UI is on it? Is it the Haikelite UI, or is it NarsilM? I don’t know which driver you have. I might be able to estimate an output for you.