New Convoy C8 – Clearly better

That sounds like the driver used in the Convoy L2 (3A, 900mA, 80mA; with half-double-press for strobe).
I’m not sure if the Convoy L2 at low modes has PWM or not though.

can you fit S2+ body into C8 head?

I tried with my red S2+. It has smaller diameter threads than the C8 so they don’t engage at all. They also have a different thread pitch.

Convoy C8 clear anodized reigns supreme! :smiley:

A friend asked me to build a host C8 in clear ano for him, at first he wanted a triple, mega power, but after some talking to him he decided on an XHP-70.2. So today I built his light.

I had some issues with the 70.2’s I had on hand, mostly they were previously used and removed for whatever reason, but the main two I tried only had two working dies. One produced dim light, the other a lot of light but still only two dies. So I removed a sliced and diced 70.2 from a Solarforce light I have that is never used, the orange peel reflector is heavy enough that it fares better with a 70 anyway. And WOW!

I built a Zener modified FET driver with 6 modes, Vishay SIR800DP MOSFET and 20 ga leads. SinkPAD board, stacked a couple of copper discs on the spring pad to clear the retaining ring and the two Aspire 18350 cells fit right in, no other modification necessary aside from opening up the reflector to clear the larger 70.2 substrate. Would you believe it does 11.82A at the tail and 6676 lumens out the front? Crazy C8! My friend is just gonna fall out! lol

It is hard to believe those 18350s can pull that many amps. I have a “close” setup, but using a pair of 26350 and a xhp70 and can only get maybe 8 amps from them.

I was thinking it’s the limit of the purple batteries. Maybe a 70.2 will pull more power from them?

I’m waiting for Lexels boost driver. It should do at least 6A at 6v so you can run a 70.2 with a single 18650 or 26650 and gave consistent output.

So 80W in a Convoy C8, impressive! That must be close to the heat build-up speed in a D4. If only you could have Toykeepers D4-type thermal management in a clicky driver, that would be very useful in this light.

I know, right? Heck, I about fell out when I saw the meter! Really close to the output of a fully modded L6, from a C8! Of course, run time will be counted in seconds instead of minutes, but my buddy likes the wow factor so it’s right down his alley… lol

Those purple 26350s are not very high drain cells but the Aspire 18350s are the best in their size.

Okay, thanks.

Surely y’all jest! I’ve used the purple Efest 18350’s for years, made a great many monster lights with em, albeit small in stature. :wink:

We were talking about the 26350 batteries.

Oops! Missed that. Carry on… :wink: ( I guess the statement about purple 26350’s that included Aspire 18350’s confused me, especially since this is the C8 thread and the C8 takes an 18650)

The little light lavender colored 26350’s run my L2 XHP-35 pretty well.

Would be great if some of you could help me. I’m pretty new in the flashlight world but got hooked last year after buying some cheap chinese ones from gearbest. After reading a bit around a bought a BLF A6 and the clear convoy C8. After some time i installed a BLF A6 driver i bought at banggood and also tried to bypass both springs (failed but there is just some bits of solder left on the springs and they are not extremely stiff. The light worked fine for some months - until it started to bug around and flicker on off and changing modes. Often it would just light up at the lowest mode and halfclicks would just bring it to the lowest mode again until it suddenly decided to switch modes just to fall back to the lowest mode over and over again. It was also extremely dependent how far i screwed the head and tail on the light.

I thought it was a driver issue and ordered a new driver which i installed tonight. Before that i tried to switch the tailcaps with the A6, but the light wouldn’t turn on at all.
Right now the light works fine but i can only lock it out by completely removing the tailcap. As soon as the tail touches the body somewhere, the light turns on. Is this normal? On every other light i got (gifted my dead the Eagle Eye X2R), half a turn or a full turn locks the light out.

You may have a short on the switch spring that is bypassing the switch, causing the light to come on as soon as your tail cap touches the tube. Look closer at your bypass to see if it’s loose and touching the outer ring somewhere. Flickering and inconsistent operation is, many times, associated with a loose ground, so make sure your retaining rings are tight and the bypasses are good.
Pictures are worth 1000 words. :wink:

Thanks for your help!

Here are some pictures:

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Just for clarification:
I can turn off the light with the switch.

The only way the light should come on as you put the tail cap on is if the switch is in the on position. If the switch is off, it shouldn’t engage the light.

I don’t see a problem anywhere in the pics, the shot that shows the switch assembly out of the light seems to have some solder paste loose on the masked part of the board, that could be causing some issue, try cleaning it off with some alcohol.

That spots are factory glue/resin not solder. But shouldn’t it als turn off if i turn it on and unscrew the tail? It just never looses contact. If i turn my Blf A6 for half a turn i can’t switch it on anymore.

Could the battery tube be inverted? Usually the end of the tube that screws into the head is non-anodized, the end that takes the tail cap has anodized threads so that it can indeed lock out. If the tube fits inverted, the tail cap would be in constant contact, unable to lock out.

I noticed Banggood and Aliexpress are selling the clear Convy C8 with the new firmware for about the same price but Banggood says 900 lumens and Convoy Store at Aliexpress says 1000 lumens and 7135x8. Are they exactly the same or is there a difference as I know sometimes the specs are not correct sometimes.