Wellp, a lot of this is why I find it perplexing why people prefer an instant-on with a simple click vs click’n’hold. It makes it that much more unlikely to accidentally turn it on.
People piss’n’moan about having a hard time finding the switch if it’s not raised and is instead flush with the case. But then they piss’n’moan when anything just squishes down the button flush and turns it on in a pocket, bag, etc. Manufacturers just can’t win…
Me, I never had any issues as you mention with switching modes, etc. Maybe you got a lemon, dunno. Sounds like it.
I like keeping it on firefly mode, so even an accidental-on puts it in its lowest mode, unless subsequent clicks make it brighter. A doubleclick from anywhere goes right to turbo. Perfect.
And yeah, I did suffer Glowing Pocket Syndrome at least once that I caught it.
EVERY SINGLE LIGHT I’ve used for EDCing, that has either a side-clicky (especially) or tail-clicky, has been accidentally turned on, most times long enough to run down a cell, even a pricey Li primary. Hell, even my holstered ’502, I’ve bapped the tailswitch on an armrest when sitting down (twice, no less!) and felt this nice warm glow cooking my side.
The only lights I’ve never ever ever had accidentally turn on? Twisties. And lots of people here claim that twisties are easy to turn on. Ha! You’re essentially doing a TCLO but on the head, not tail, when turning off a twisty.
Every other light? Assume it will turn on by accident. Fact of life.
@eas & Lighbringer ; i have read over (thrice) all that you both have written ....and i agree with all of it, many excellent points and much solid advice there from you both, thanks very much. eas ...yes, i did check all the things you mentioned ...but as you pointed out, i should have un-screwed the tail-cap, you are absolutely correct ...this is the first side-switch i have owned, so not used to that ...and frankly was not thinking (Cest La Vie). also, i think you are both right ...the SP10B i purchased is more than likely a dud (lemon) ...but i have carried it for 3 months now (pocket wear ...although Not connected to a key Fob, was just simply loose floating around in my big front pocket with the factory lanyard attached), and the ebay seller would never take it back or exchange it unfortunately (and i already left him a nice feedback after the light arrived in the mail, although defect is not his fault). live and learn :) at any rate, tis true ...re-chargeable batteries are the way to go (i have actually been researching this, and will soon be purchasing a good Opus charger too, based on all i have read here on BLF). Lightbringer, your point about twisties is VERY well taken, frankly if there was a high CRI or Neutral White Twisty (that i knew of) that was the same size as the SP10B, and could output the same power (my plan was to order a 14500 rechargeable battery for the SP10B for max power), i would purchase that light to carry in my front pocket on construction sites and such ...because i am very used to using the Trunight Ti3 twisty on my keychain (love it), and i too have never ever had any problems with my trusted Ti3 twisty accidentally turning on as you said.
Well, being on BLF means you are already in the nicest place to find info about making an adequate flashlight into an almost perfect flashlight. Emitter swaps are quite a fun thing to do, so you can take a high CRI neutral white emitter and stick it in your favorite EDC
very true ...excellent point :) always best to think outside of manufacturer's specs or supposed limitations ....as i have many times read (and seen pics) of the many amazing things that some talented people have done here on BLF ! cheers :)
Couldn’t agree more. I picked up a Sofirn SP33 a few weeks back. It has the side switch click and hold to turn on method. Drove me nuts for a few days until I got use to it. Now I don’t understand why every light doesn’t do this. Being a 26650 light what are some other lights that use that feature? Something in a more pocketable 18650, 18350, 16340, or 14500. I’d buy a few.
Wellp, someone (Enderman, I think) said that with the simple-click on/off, it would easily pass the Granny Test. Ie, give it to your granny and see if she could work the light without reading an instruction manual. Anyone could click it on/off, even if a longclick would be needed to switch modes, but would be able to simply click it on/off.
So there’s an advantage to that, too. Depends on your point of view, preferences, etc.
A little Goop and a stainless washer works wonders. Probably will extend the switch life too. Less lateral stress . Less downward stress. I found a nice thin 1/4” one and drilled it out to 5/16” . This keeps the overall size smaller . Polished up with some metal polish, looks like it came stock.
Sorry for being dense. You mean you found a thin washer that you drilled out to the same diameter as the switch and then glued it on top of the existing bezel so the switch is now flush?
Yes . The goop is the trick . Use a tooth pick to apply a very little around the perimeter of the switch being careful not to use too much. Let it sit overnight. There are many different use Goops . Mostly the same . My favorite go to glue.Amazing strength yet removable without damage.
A lot would depend on which bin of each your comparing. But according to test done by members here I’d say it be a good increase. I haven’t checked the current draw on mine but from the advertised 573 lumens that looks to be about 2.5 amps. A xp-l2 V5 should do about 950 lumens at that current, could possibly be more with it’s slightly lower vf.
Everyone gets a lemon every now and again. I’ve got an embarrassingly large number of Sofirn lights, and have had few if any problems with them. Loose retaining-ring on the driver, fixed easily by just snugging it up.
As much as I’ve had similar good experiences with Thorfire, I had one go boom just by tipping over(!). Fixed now thanks to percussive therapy, but still… (Never a problem with any other.)
Even my trusty’n’crusty bobofett light (a beat-to-Hell 3buk Inland/MicroStore 1-mode light) is going south, as its switch is getting all flickery and unstable.
Point being, every brand, even rock-reliable ones, can have a lemon sneak through.
I have a coupla SF14s on the way, so will see how they shake out.
I’ve had it (SP10B) turn on in my pocket. A twist to snug up the tailcap is easier for me than bapping the button a bunch of times to unlock it. Also positively cuts out any parasitic drain.
Something could’ve been blocking the switch or something, as swapping out the used alkaleaks for brandy-new ones wasn’t enough. Percussive therapy from several different angles and directions knocked something back into place, and it’s been pretty much working fine ever since.
hey All ~ just wanted to update my situation/issues with my SP10B that i posted about earlier in this thread. after contacting Tracy at Sofirn directly about the specific issues i was having with this light, she most graciously sent me a Brand New replacement SP10B (which works perfectly). based on the detailed information that i provided Tracy with, Sofirn determined that the issue on my defective unit was the driver (unstable firmware). just wanted to let everyone know that Sofirn does truly care about it's customers and they stayed in constant contact with me to fully resolve this problem/situaion. i want to express my sincere appreciation to Tracy and Sofirn, and i do now consider them one of the better (Top) manufacturers in terms of both excellent customer support and excellent build quality (i use the replacement SP10B every day at work in harsh conditions without any issues for 3 weeks now). i will certainly be purchasing other Sofirn products in the future, and i now look forward to any upcoming models that they manufacture as well !