If heat output is low enough, you could design your own pcb and make a cob lantern out of it. Itād take an ungodly number of these ledās to get decent output and efficiency though. Iād want a thousand emitters, maybe a lot more, and thereās no way Iām reflowing that many emitters.
It seems unsuitable for light bulbs. Maybe itād be okay for panel lights, and excellent for lighting film sets. Computer monitor backlighting may be a good application.
This Graph doesnāt make sense to me. This new LED should have a lower color temperature. There is more red spectral content in relation to the blue peak compared to the other LEDs.
Any update on these Clemence?
If nothing gets in the way, they should be available in May
- Clemence
output test is in the make
Packet to Maukka in the make too
Some more informations:
- Clemence
Saw it already. Looks like you could increase the current a bit further
- Clemence
I'm curious how the Optisolis performs in my setup. Overall the performance and efficiency looks very nice, even better than expected.
Maybe they can beat the 260 lumens at more than 1.0 - 1.4 Amps... - could be a great replacement for my JAXMAN M8 Triple...
Looks like a good choice for small key chain lights.
And good test!
So do these fit the quadtrix board? Else I might have to cut up a 5050 board like djozz did, but ofcourse that will give some insulation issues with DTP.
No quadtrix board doesnāt fit. Another quad board for 757 series is still work in progress.
- Clemence
I wonder if I could use a 3535 board with the central thermal pad electrically insulated by arctic alumina adhesive? Would an iptisolis fit then?
An XM-board works as quad board like that, see post #2 in my Optisolis test-thread.
You used the adhesive to insulate the board from the pill. What I had in mind was insulating the led from the board
The astrolux S1 has an anodized shelf right? Might buy one of thoseā¦
After seeing Djozzās unexpected amazing result, we know that the Optisolis can be used for flashlight applications. At least for ultra high CRI small low powered EDC. I took some tint shots and the results were not as expected. Like Djozz said earlier, the extra āultraā canāt be noticed as obvious as if we compare R70 to R9080. The difference compared to R9080 is too subtle for most people to notice in everyday scenes.
In natural scenes only those with extra CRI snobism will spot it. The biggest difference seen on blue (subtle), green (looks darker), and obviously any turquoise (cyan) colored stuff.
This perhaps looks like Lumiledsās ācrisp whiteā. When shine onto white fabrics it looks whiter than the R9080 while still retain the strong blue, red, and green.
Donāt expect anything magical like the swap from R70 to R9080. IMHO, Red is more critical than cyan, even the move from R9050 to R9080 usually gives instant improvement. This is a great choice for ultra high CRI, low glare, evenly lit lighting system.
Retail price estimated USD 0,4-0,5/pc for the highest CRI rank. Itās cheap CRI/output wise, but very expensive for 757 class. The extra āhiddenā performance tested by Djozz makes it an economical alternative for your own ultra high CRI home lighting.
See it for yourself. Not much difference from the already superior R9080:
I had to find suitable objects to show you the difference made by the Optisolis. The NF2W757GT-F1 (Optisolis) ran in 4S (4x series).
- Clemence
The more ānicheā a led becomes, the more I enjoy it! :party:
Thanks for the pics, I will try to make some comparisons too if I have time tonight.
It is interesting how color perception differs from one person to another. If my display renders the colors correctly, then the gain in green/blue area that I see is very considerable. And whites (the coconut) look very different, but again I need to see it in real life (1-2 days from now) to understand what is in fact more natural.