New Convoy C8 – Clearly better

That spots are factory glue/resin not solder. But shouldn’t it als turn off if i turn it on and unscrew the tail? It just never looses contact. If i turn my Blf A6 for half a turn i can’t switch it on anymore.

Could the battery tube be inverted? Usually the end of the tube that screws into the head is non-anodized, the end that takes the tail cap has anodized threads so that it can indeed lock out. If the tube fits inverted, the tail cap would be in constant contact, unable to lock out.

I noticed Banggood and Aliexpress are selling the clear Convy C8 with the new firmware for about the same price but Banggood says 900 lumens and Convoy Store at Aliexpress says 1000 lumens and 7135x8. Are they exactly the same or is there a difference as I know sometimes the specs are not correct sometimes.

I’m measuring almost exactly 2.8A for the Convoy C8 with XP-L Hi V2-1A (cool-white) and U6-3A (neutral-whte) — both with new Biscotti firmware, 7135x8.
Would that be 900 lumens or 1000 lumens?

For the older Convoy C8 with XM-L2 and old 5/3-modes group, 7135x8, I measured 3.0A tailcap current.

(I think the Convoy C8 new firmware XP-L Hi uses “35A” or 350mA per chip so 8x chip = 2.80A
whereas the Convoy C8 old firmware XM-L2 uses “38A” or 380mA per chip so 8x chip = 3.04A)

I measure 800 lumens from my Convoy C8 clear with the new firmware (bought from Banggood last summer). It’s a 3A tint with 8x7135 chips. There’s probably some variability in output, so maybe mine is a little low (or my measurements are off), but I don’t think you’ll get 1000 lumens, except perhaps from the cool white version.

To get higher, I think you’ll need a version of C8 that uses a different driver than the 7135 chips.

@DB Custom Thx for the tip. I tried it both ways (both fit) and have to same problem on each side. Could the coating just completely scratched off? Since its clear, i can’t actually see it. Would still be strange since even the slightest contact turns on the light (if the switch is on).
Do you know where i could order a new switch? Don’t really want/like the LED one which is sold on banggood.

Could i just try to spraypaint the threads to get rid of the problem?

Wasn’t Simons clear anodizing electrically conductive? I remember someone testing it with a multimeter.

Most anodized finishes are insulators, but not all.

Hmmm. So i might have just fixed the flickering/not able to switch mode issue and lockout is just not possible? Sadly i can’t really remember if it ever was possible.

Lockout is really about an e-switch light anyway, just don’t need to lock one out with a tail clicky most of the time. If it’s critical, remove the cell or place a bit of tape or paper over the end and replace the tail cap.

Don’t have to get a new driver to hit 1000 lumens, stack an extra chip (or 2 or 6 or….) There are 350mA chips and 380mA chips, 8 of the 350’s net 2.8A while 8 of the 380’s net 3.04A. Add a chip. Problem solved.

Can you really see the difference between 800 and 1000? I’d bet no. Certainly not in a stand alone scenario. Possibly a side by side comparison you could detect that 200 lumen difference but not likely you’d see it just grabbing a light and heading out into the night. Keeping the 2.8A draw is good for run time, if you need more you need more but there’s that balance to find…

My clear C8 can lock out if I unscrew the tail cap slightly. However, if I leave the switch on and continue to unscrew the cap, it will flicker and stay on in certain portions. Unscrewing the head does not affect connectivity until it is all the way out. This does seem to indicate that the tail threads are anodized and is not supposed to be conductive, but mine is fairly new and very lightly used, so the anodizing on the tail threads haven’t worn through yet.

KuoH

Ok, thx for clarification!

Also, the Convoy C8 doesn’t really get that hot on maximum. The 8x7135 is a pretty-good balance for those that want maximum output for long periods of time. It might get hot enough to melt plastic fabric, but probably doesn’t pose a fire hazard even if it comes on in a back-pack or something.

I’m only concerned about lights that over-drive the LED, such as those with FET drivers. Great output, but you do have to be careful about heat. Also, small lights can get hot even if they don’t overdrive the LED, but the C8 is not a small light.

Upgraded it with the BLF A6 driver :wink:

Yes, that is exactly the Astrolux C8 version of this light. (Though with black anodizing, rather than clear.) My only complaint is that the BLF A6 driver, with its 45 second step-down, is too short for a C8.

I read that the l6 will have a new better looking clear ano. Any chance they will give the same treatment to the c8?

We (Jared’s team) have seen samples of a machined finish clear ano that is like a jewelry grade light, this was on the L2, but we’re pushing for Simon to do it with the C8 and L6 and get em out there… should be very successful as the finish is just nothing short of beautiful!

Edit: So much so that mine is in my line-up of my scratch built lights. :smiley:

Just got my C8 after they were held at Canadian customs for two months . It’s everything I hoped it would be. The machining on the threads is really good quality. I was worried the beam would be too narrow but it seems to have enough spill that it still lights up a large area as well. It gets quite warm on high which means the flashlight is dissipating the heat effectively, not sure if it would get hot enough to damage anything if left on high for a long time. I also ordered the holster Simon has for it and glad I did, keeps it safe and good for walks or camping. I believe it’s U6 3A tint so one warmer then the coldest, quite like the colour.

I don’t think it will overheat. I have a couple of the 8x7135 clear C8’s, and I use them on high for long periods of time. No problems.

So no new clear ano as of yet… mm keep om waiting i guess

Any pictures of the clear anodizing? How different is it from the previous ones (maybe a side-by-side comparison)?