Still thinking about dqg tiny 26650 instead because of smaller size. I know it has substantially less max output than TC20, but I’m wondering if it is also less efficient at lower outputs. Would the TC20 run substantially longer at around 100 lumens than the dqg? 500 lumens? (I realize neither light has these exact outputs programmed, just thrown out their as hypotethetical values for sake of bigger question of efficiency)
The TC20 is boosting a 4.2V cell to supply a 6V emitter so the actual current draw from the cell is going to be close to 50% more than current supplied to the emitter. The DQG is boosting a 4.2V cell to supply 21V to the 7 emitters at 1A actual emitter current in Turbo. So the DQG is probably hitting the cell harder in the long run.
I know this about the DQG because I modified mine to take a Cree COB at 21V 1A. (It’s technically an 18V COB but requires 21V to run 1A current at the emitter. At this level, as supplied by the stock DQG driver, it produces 2004 lumens out the front from the mule configuration with an AR coated lens.) I have this COB also as a light source for my Carolina Reaper, running on a power supply, and at .450 mA to the emitter it,s burning through 17.18V. This where I set it with the light within 2 inches of the plant. This is supposed to be a 96 CRI COB.
At any rate, the TC20 should be more efficient on the cell, runtimes should be correspondingly longer.
Thanks.
Does anyone that owns the Olight R50 know if the Thrunite TC20 will fit in the R50 holster?
If I use unprotected IMR battery can I safely charge it with the Thrunite TC 20 Flashlight or do I need a separate charger ?
Today I also became the owner of TC20 :).
The package went the entire 5 days. Flashlight very pleasant, shines wide and strong enough. I like it very much. With measurements, the turbo collection is 10A. Color NW and it came out to me 4959K. Despite the ideal temperature, some bile is. BLF Q8 is clean, despite the slightly lower temperature. Overall, it’s really good:
Of course, I checked the supplied Thrunite battery. I have a comparison for Lii-50. The original is slightly less turbo, but not the whole 10%. The problem is time, because in turbo it lasts 47 seconds and goes down rapidly. On the Lii-50, the turbo will heal for 150 seconds and then it slowly descends for another minute. The flashlight is already very hot 62 degrees Celsius.
That’s not all that hot, try running it at 20A to the emitter for a while 
Y’all are killin me, how can I resist when y’all write all this great stuff about this light?
Haha I also tried to resist and what? Waste of time 
Has anyone gotten an emitter current read yet? What, about 3.6A to the emitter? Would like to find out what the driver is pushing up top…
So 6V diode, which gives us 30W, hmm 10W loss on the controller. 75% efficiency
Thanks Komeko for the valuable info. I received my TC20 two weeks ago and the color temperature is slightly warmer than my zebralight sc5w II 4500k. It is much warmer than my 5000k flashlights and close to my 4000k flashlights, which I prefer. However, it is high above the BBL line so it has more green than my other flashlights. I’m curious where did you order yours from and when did you receive it? I don’t really know how to read your color chart but is yours above or below the BBL line? Is it more or the greenish or rosy side? If it’s below the BBL and more on the rosy side, I want to buy another one because it’s such a perfect practical flashlight and the only thing I currently don’t like about it is the B or C greenish tint they use instead of A or D rosy tint.
It will be 3C near the main line and near 3B. For me, there is no green, there is more yellow which gives the impression of a warmer color than it really is. BLF Q8 has a lower temperature and it seems cooler because it is not so much yellow.
I ordered on the company website and the shipping was from Amazon.
darn I was hoping they revised the light color. I like warmer color temp but I don’t like yellow.
This is probably the general charm of XHP70.2
The Acebeam EC50 III has practically the same lighting characteristics.
The center is white, the crown is yellow.
The XHP70.2 4000k and 5000k MT09R and Acebeam H15 5000k XHP70.2 and none of them had as much greenish yellow as the TC20. The 4000k 80CRI on the MT09R had much better tint. But don’t get me wrong, the TC20 tint is not ugly. I’ve seen much worst. It’s just not as ideal as I hoped for. I still really like the light because it can maintain the high lumens so much better than other lights making it my most practical portable light.
>> I still really like the light because it can maintain the high lumens so much better than other lights making it my most practical portable light.
I’m size sensitive - the larger a light the less likely I am to use it. But of course I like large output, and decent runtime. D4 size is great, but runtimes seem absurd, just can’t justify buying it for such a short wow time. I’m guessing that until there’s another large leap in LED efficiency the TC20 is the current king of output/size with high output runtime that’s longer than a joke…
With today’s offerings it can be difficult to choose the right light for balance, we now have choices that skew the parameters far and wide so coming back to a happy medium get’s complicated.
The problem is that for most people only lumens are important. Manufacturers wanting to “meet the requirements” of these customers, install P2 diodes because they are the most efficient. Of course, the color suffers. There are XHP70.2 diodes which have 5000K and CRI 80 and 90. They are N2, M4 and M2 models, but for comparison their performance:
P2 CRI70 1830 lm for 85 degrees
N2 CRI80 1590 lm for 85 degrees
M4 CRI90 1480 lm for 85 degrees
M2 CRI90 1380 lm for 85 degrees
Knowing me, as soon as I get N2 I will make a change
I look for M4, but hardly available to buy.
Mike