[PART 1] Official BLF GT Group Buy thread. Group buy officially closed! Lights shipping.

Eh, I’m not even phased any more.

That is not even close to the 650 orders ($100,000) they will get over about a weeks time when the last batch of PM’s go out.

The sooner they can get all the issues sorted from the first 850 sales (missing or damaged items, etc…), the sooner they can get serious money rolling in.

It wasn’t me who gave you a rude mark.

Thank you?

Finally got my Gtvn with CFT-90. I measured 1.535m cd. This thing is insane




Now that’s interesenting point of View of a fellow member or a business partner? So many words ,but let’s assume that you would of payed on 2december and by now,instead the light that you got,you would have a shipping number dated on 7february that ever since, is saying : preregistered,pending of deposit ,and there is nobody capable to give you a proper answer where your light is it……yes,i was about 200 on the list and payed right away but of course,you were luckier than me to have the3 light and now only see how good Lumintop/Neal has done everything (and nobody really payed you to do so)

Yes, that’s how it went. Why does that imply “You wrong”?

Me or Pulsar? You quoted us both.

If me, I think I know what you are asking. It’s just worded strangely:

If I got tired of waiting, I would ask for a refund and move on.

If the paypal protection deadline got close and I still got no response about a refund, I would move to make a dispute. Maybe a week before the protection runs out. If the light showed up during paypal dispute, I would close the dispute.

  1. on list.

Paid $14 the day I got the PM.

Paid in full Jan 12th:
Thank you for your purchase! You ordered the following item(s):
8pcs Samsung 35E x 1 - $40.50
BLF GIGAThrower (DHL) x 1 - $101.78
IMPORTANT:
Please reply to this email and send me your phone number AND the BLF username
I will ship as soon as possible or contact you if i need anything else
greetings
Neal

Got email from Neal Jan 29th requesting phone number.

Today received a TEXT MESSAGE for shipping via DHL from Hong Kong with a tracking number that says it’s already in Los Angeles, but is still also in Hong Kong.

The DHL tacking page also does not show my full mailing address in Hawaii, it only shows my name/state/zip/USA… but no street address? Is that ok?

I am hopeful!

Must of been a Bitch centering/focusing that LED. The emitter is offset to the pad and the whole board is offset to the emitter hole in the reflector, to put the emitter in the center of the reflector, WOW!

They gave you a link via the Schrödinger Tracking service? :smiley: That’s kind of bad; when they locate or actually physically handle it in either one of those locations, it ceases to exist in the other. You better hope someone sees or touches it in LA first!

There’s gotta be a smart method to do this. Perhaps you could just set up a camera or microscope stand and or a laser, then eyeball center things, add reflector+window to test it. Lots of work anyway, but then again the stock emitter is not and can not be perfectly centered either. There’s only so much you have to do or even can do. Perfect x,y centering is not even needed to achieve maximum throw, but of course good for efficiency, practicality, appearance, decent beam profile, everything else. Perfect z centering is kind of independent of x,y and several methods could be used. No way to make use of any regular centering ring part, obviously. Not as more than a shim.

I mean it’s hard to properly focus but not necessarily any harder than swapping in anything more typical if you can’t use the stock MCPCB and centering ring. It’s asymmetrical package preinstalled on an weird rectangular board, but that’s it. :open_mouth:

I don’t mean to say any less wow, that’s a definite success and some beautiful work.

The die is centered on the holes, so if you use screws to mount it then it doesn’t matter that the board is offset.
Or you could simply read the datasheet and do some measurements and use math to center the LED properly on the shelf.

So it seems like a Neal’s crush or a just a sensitive personal without empathy……

I got some “rude” too when I posted the print of the sarcastic reply of this guy I think I’m the wrong here and I did should thanks neal for his outstanding work here….

I understand that,I’m very ungrateful personal and another one was G_sintornillos how he can expected a better reply than “its expensive to send to Uruguay, so it sent to usa”……

For those who are getting problems with the shipping I will share my experience: both paypal and credit card have 180 days protection and after that you cannot place a dispute or charge back anyway, so keep an eye in this, paypal requires time and not affect the charge back which is your last attempt to get your money back!

Knowing the board or emitter Center Lines of it’s layout is one thing, laying it out on the emitter shelf by hand and then machining or drilling and tapping the hold down holes is a different matter. I didn’t see any milling machines like a Bridgeport in Vinhs work shop. where he could indicate the diameter of the heat sink and coordinately use the handles or a read out to put the holes in for the board? Unless he is having it done on the outside, he does have a buddy that owns a machine shop. Or he could of had a jig made, where all you do is drop the jig in and then drop the board into it and transfer the holes that way, either way it would have to be some what precise because just a bit off makes a really big difference with this very large reflector.

How many Big Reflectors have you tuned Enderman in a fixed head/reflector light?

It’s simple, you know the dimensions of the MCPCB, and the diameter of the shelf, so you just do some math to measure the distance you want between each of the 4 sides of the MCPCB and the side of the shelf.
All you need is a calculator, a caliper, and scribe or pen/pencil.
The hard part is not centering the MCPCB on the flashlight, it is centering the reflector over the MCPCB, since there is no centering ring, so it can easily shift when tightening the head.

It actually does not need to be perfectly centred either to get the highest intensity either.
The amount of lux projected into the spot is uniform, so it really only makes a difference to how straight the beam appears to your eyes when exiting the flashlight.

Oh, it’s also possible to simply mark where you need the holes on the shelf, center punch, and drill+tap them on a drill press.
I don’t think vinh used screws though, it seems like just thermal adhesive from the pics.

From the last batch of reflectors, only 50 got used.
The other 75 to 100 reflectors?

They are supposed to be stockpiled for the upcoming Group Buy.


Yeah I read some of your build, you should/could have external adjustment with your recoil light seeing that the emitter is on the OUTSIDE of the reflector, didn’t you have to open up the holes in one or the other (the reflector) or both to make adjustments because your design, drawing, machining, or was it errors in the dimensional stack up of tolerances was off, to cause the need to tune your light better?? Or did the machinist just center punch and drill all the holes in all your parts he made for your lights? :smiley:

Once it’s glued you could be screwed, unless you have a way of keeping it in place while it’s curing…I tried glue once! :person_facepalming: Now I glue it after it’s been set and cycled hot enough for the thermal paste to hold it and just glue the edges.

I centerpunched and drilled the holes myself.
The reflector can be adjusted, the LED cannot.
The parts were cut by waterjet, there was just some holes I had to do by hand and I punched one in the wrong place :smiley:

Hi T_A, did Neal answer you already?

I can show all the information that I have