Review: KD 7135 V2 drivers 3040/2280/1520 mA with mode configuration

[brted]

Thanks, Langcjl, but that's a 105C. I know how to do those. These KD ones are a little different.

[Trancersteve]

@garrybunk

@Trancersteve

Does anyone know of a budget 3xAA host for these drivers?

See JohnnyMac's SAIK-305 mod here. Might be a little more modding than you wanted, I don't know. I too bought this light to do the same thing.

-Garry

Thanks for pointing this out Garry. It is definitely interesting. While I really appreciate JohnnyMac's work, this solution involves too much heavy modding for me.

**Solarforce, are you reading this?!**
There is a massive gap in the market for a 3xAA P60 host with the same configuration as the Saik SA-305, using a 3xAA cradle.
**Solarforce, are you reading this?!**

I'm not much of a fan of it, but the Dereelight Javelin with the extender seems like the better option for me.

While also being useful to me; this driver is screaming out to be gifted out in a 3xAA host to friends/family (non-flashalcoholics).

[Langcjl]

@brted

Thanks, Langcjl, but that's a 105C. I know how to do those. These KD ones are a little different.

I did realize that after I posted. This one is just two little solder pads that have to be bridged. I had a heck of a time doing it but it should have been really easy.

I really like this driver and have used a bunch of them, the only problem I have is that the tiny spring will give fits in some applications. Sometimes I have to stretch the spring to make contact. The last setup I had trouble with was a SF L2T. I tried all of my longest batteries and it was still too short. The spring is very stiff so I dont just pull it to stretch it. I bend each coil up one at a time.

[ezarc]

@sixty545

default (no solder blobs): Low(glowing) - Medium(35%) - High(100%) - Low(glowing) - Medium(35%) - High(100%) -Strobe(10Hz) - Blink(2Hz) - SOS(slooow) - Beacon

2. High(100%) - Medium(35%) - Low(glowing) - High(100%) - Medium(35%) - Low(glowing) - Strobe(10Hz) - Blink(2Hz) - SOS(slooow) - Beacon

3. High(100%) - Medium(35%)

4. High(100%) - Strobe(10Hz)

5. Medium(35%) - High(100%) - Blink(2Hz)

6. High(100%) - Medium(35%) - Blink(2Hz)

7. Low(glowing) - Medium(35%) - High(100%)

8. High(100%) - Medium(35%) - Low(glowing)

The Beacon mode is 2 sec on - 10 sec off.

The SOS mode is super slow (12 sec signal, 8 sec pause).

The PWM frequency (for low and medium) is very high at 15000 Hz.

The KD 7135 V2 has four soldering pads (numbered S4,S3,S2,S1 from left to right) on the bottom side to select mode groups by applying a solder blob connecting one or more of the pads to the corresponding ground pad.

Beware of the schematics on KD's site. It is faulty for the last 4 modes, the mode selection should be:

1: no solder blobs

2: connect S2 to ground with a solder blob.

3: connect S2 and S3 to ground.

4: S2, S3 and S4

5: S3 and S4 (not S2)

6: S4 (not S2 and S3)

7: S2 and S4 (not S3)

8: S3 (not S2 and S4)

Mode Memory

This can be selected by applying a solder blob at S1. The mode memory snaps in about 0.5-1 second after a mode switch. I normally prefers memory after switch-off so I do'nt have to tap twice to shift level.

Just to double check before I make a mistake when mine arrive.

If I want Low > Med > High, I would solder S2 and S4

And for memory just solder S1 as well?

[DrJones]

FX-32 wrote about reprogramming these:
> I haven't tried yet, but with an "Arduino Duemilanove" and a "Soic 8 Clip" I think it's enough.

I still need confirmation that someone really reprogrammed this driver - and how exactly. It uses a different micro-controller.

[sixty545]

@ezarc

Just to double check before I make a mistake when mine arrive.

If I want Low > Med > High, I would solder S2 and S4

And for memory just solder S1 as well?

Exactly!

[Mr.BrightLights]

@sixty545

@ezarc

Just to double check before I make a mistake when mine arrive.

If I want Low > Med > High, I would solder S2 and S4

And for memory just solder S1 as well?

Exactly!

What do u do just put a bead of solder on top of each or do u connect them to something? Thanks

[sixty545]

Each of the solder pads S1, S2, S3 and S4 has an adjacent pad connected to the outer ring (connected to battery minus) -see picture.

Notice that S2 is situated just below the center of the spring (badly marked).

Just connect pad S1 to its adjacent pad with a blob of solder if you want to activate S1 (memory). The same for the other pads.

[EDIT] changed 'opposite' to 'adjacent'. Sorry, english is not my native language.

[brted]

So in that picture, none of them are actually connected, right?

[Mr.BrightLights]

@sixty545

Each of the solder pads S1, S2, S3 and S4 has an opposite pad connected to the outer ring (connected to battery minus) -see picture.

Notice that S2 is situated just below the center of the spring (badly marked).

Just connect pad S1 to the opposite pad with a blob of solder if you want to activate S1 (memory). The same for the other pads.

So connect the pad behind the pad to activate?

[sixty545]

@brted

So in that picture, none of them are actually connected, right?

Correct, but they have been when I tested it (residual solder on the pads).

The upper pads are S4, S3, S2, S1. The lower pads are their adjacent pads and are part of the ring. A connection would be a small vertical line connecting an upper and a lower pad. (I don't know how to paint over the picture). Is it clear now?

[EDIT] changed 'opposite' to 'adjacent'.

[agedbriar]

I received one of theese a few days ago, and now the included instructions match the mode selection table in the OP.

The instructions also advise applying thermal epoxy to avoid thermal protection kicking in prematurely. What is anyone's experience in this regard? I would rather skip that messy step...

[benckie]

The last one i did i did not add any and it works fine but it is a V1 and its only used for short burts, i use my big guys for the long hauls

[jamesearljonesisasca (jamesearljonesisascab)]

@Mr.BrightLights

@sixty545

Each of the solder pads S1, S2, S3 and S4 has an opposite pad connected to the outer ring (connected to battery minus) -see picture.

Notice that S2 is situated just below the center of the spring (badly marked).

Just connect pad S1 to the opposite pad with a blob of solder if you want to activate S1 (memory). The same for the other pads.

So connect the pad behind the pad to activate?

S1 & S3 bridged/

wanted to add pic of firefly mode

sc600 L turboX M F15 R

beams are dimmer thann pic. Zl lowest then 47s then TF.

[nekdo12]

@sixty545

.....

• Has a very high PWM frequency giving a steady light

.....

So lower modes are PWM, but on high ti is current regulated?

[Andi]

Yes, you can use 26650 Li-Mn and have not more mA. ;)

[Trancersteve]

@nekdo12

@sixty545

.....

• Has a very high PWM frequency giving a steady light

.....

So lower modes are PWM, but on high ti is current regulated?

I will be annoyed if so, no PWM is the reason why I bought this driver. KD state that all modes are current regulated.

[Hikelite]

@Trancersteve

@nekdo12

@sixty545

.....

• Has a very high PWM frequency giving a steady light

.....

So lower modes are PWM, but on high ti is current regulated?

I will be annoyed if so, no PWM is the reason why I bought this driver. KD state that all modes are current regulated.

All 7135*8 are current regulated. They are current controlled on High mode and PWM on Medium an Low. A difference, regulated - controlled. They want to say constant current.

This driver using the 380mA chips seems the same.

[ezarc]

I got mine in the mail today, they are tiny...

My soldering iron is way too big to even attempt it and I doubt hold my hands steady enough to hold the soldering iron anyway.

Or maybe I can find smaller tips but there isnt any electronics shops around here.

[dthrckt]

before I got an iron w/ small tip I would do tiny stuff by stripping more of the wire, putting a little blob of solder on the end of it, putting that in place and then holding the iron onto the wire as close as i could get to the blob...

and, as for pwm - i must be the luckiest budget light guy, w/ respect to pwm - i have to try to notice it and it doesn't bother me (though, I'm sure I haven't seen the worst stuff that's out there...)