The setting on the picture is 1.5 lumen, so 1/10 the light output of a candle which is rather perfect for night use in my son’s bedroom when we stay the night somewhere else (myself I prefer no light at all at night), the runtime should be about 100 hours on a battery load.
Yes, it should get along very well with copper. And yes, this CCT is great for very low lumens so I am wondering if there is a nice twisty AAA host with a firefly mode, where the board can be installed after heavy sandung. Like, Fenix E05 form factor, but with a <~1lm lowest mode
I usually put a ping pong ball or any white milky plastic bottle on my EDC to get more of the lights directed to the table when outside (dim cafe or restaurant). And use it ceiling bounced in the room or tent.
I just played and tested a Tiny 26650 DQG for Pavlo. Saw some of the smallest EDC in George’s collection. I plan to get some for myself. Maybe I’m late at this but just amazed at how he boosted single 26650 to feed 7x XPG2 at 1A.
His smaller EDCs could be a great host for this 2000K
I have a Spy waiting for an Optisolis. Actually it is waiting for Arctic Alumina, which I will cover the central pad with to avoid grounding of the LED.
I just recalled that you installed some e21s to E05, didn’t you? Did you use your boards?
On the topic of extra-warm emitters, Digikey has some XTE 2200K emitters (80 CRI).
Just put one in a headlamp for night reading. The tint is very close to an incandescent filament bulb at a low setting and is very cozy, but on high modes it can be obnoxiously yellow/orange.
Mounting it on a DTP X-series board (noctigon) could possibly get it up to 2 amps or more. Maybe someone will put an XTE emitter to the test to see what they are really capable of
I hope more companies start producing high powered LEDs in the 2300-2500K range. I would love to have a floody caving headlamp that can mimic the tint and CRI of a carbide headlamp.
^ thanks, very nice measurements. The datasheet gives an example of the spectrum and R-values, but no promises for the real product. This confirms that the leds are about as good as the example in the datasheet
Red, Green, Blue, and Amber E21A. The E17A already soft launched. This could be the answer for more powerful colored lighting (arrayed)
Unlike traditional color LEDs, all of them will have same forward voltage and characteristics. Thus simplify driver and configuration options.
I’ve just found a 4×3535 PCB on your site, but I looked at the recommended optics section.
All listed optics seem to be for 3 emitter boards there.
Could you please update the recommendation?
(Specifically, I would consider using them in Astrolux S41 lights, and I am curious about if that would work )
(Also noticed, that emitter orientations are rotated 22.5 degrees compared one to another around the board to mix the beam better for LEDs with square emitting surfaces - seem to be a nice feature)
For the same diameter optic a triple will manipulate the lights better than a quad. This means you have more control over the beam angle (if there are selection available). This is critical if you want a medium to narrow beam output. Both can give you floody beam but the quad will never give you narrower overall beam than the triple. Even those “punch” 7x super narrow optic like used in DQG tiny 26650 (7x 10mm individual) also creates very wide and bright spill. If let’s say the same 35mm optic optimized for narrow beam 3up LEDs rather than narrow beam 7up LED, the latter will have broader spill and less center beam intensity.
Depends on your application, choose quad TIR for brighter or more efficient setup. triple TIR for medium or narrow overall beam pattern.
Damn.
Just replace
Compatible with Carclo 10507, 10508, 10509, 10510 and 10511 optics
with
Compatible with Carclo 10610, 10611, 10612, 10613, 10621, 10622, 10623, and 10624 optics.
Oops, did I missed something here?
I thought he only asked triple vs quad optics. Now I see that my pasted text from Hank’s website didn’t include the quad optics.
Damn, thanks Kiriba-ru
Yup, reading email while working is not my specialty. Please ignore the optic recommendation, use what Kiriba-ru wrote above. I will change it later when I have access to PC.