Review: KD 7135 V2 drivers 3040/2280/1520 mA with mode configuration

FX-32 wrote about reprogramming these:
> I haven't tried yet, but with an "Arduino Duemilanove" and a "Soic 8 Clip" I think it's enough.

I still need confirmation that someone really reprogrammed this driver - and how exactly. It uses a different micro-controller.

Exactly!

What do u do just put a bead of solder on top of each or do u connect them to something? Thanks

Each of the solder pads S1, S2, S3 and S4 has an adjacent pad connected to the outer ring (connected to battery minus) -see picture.

Notice that S2 is situated just below the center of the spring (badly marked).

Just connect pad S1 to its adjacent pad with a blob of solder if you want to activate S1 (memory). The same for the other pads.

[EDIT] changed 'opposite' to 'adjacent'. Sorry, english is not my native language.

So in that picture, none of them are actually connected, right?

So connect the pad behind the pad to activate?

Correct, but they have been when I tested it (residual solder on the pads).

The upper pads are S4, S3, S2, S1. The lower pads are their adjacent pads and are part of the ring. A connection would be a small vertical line connecting an upper and a lower pad. (I don't know how to paint over the picture). Is it clear now?

[EDIT] changed 'opposite' to 'adjacent'.

I received one of theese a few days ago, and now the included instructions match the mode selection table in the OP.

The instructions also advise applying thermal epoxy to avoid thermal protection kicking in prematurely. What is anyone's experience in this regard? I would rather skip that messy step... Wink

The last one i did i did not add any and it works fine but it is a V1 and its only used for short burts, i use my big guys for the long hauls

S1 & S3 bridged/

wanted to add pic of firefly mode

sc600 L turboX M F15 R

beams are dimmer thann pic. Zl lowest then 47s then TF.

So lower modes are PWM, but on high ti is current regulated?

Yes, you can use 26650 Li-Mn and have not more mA. ;)

I will be annoyed if so, no PWM is the reason why I bought this driver. KD state that all modes are current regulated.

All 7135*8 are current regulated. They are current controlled on High mode and PWM on Medium an Low. A difference, regulated - controlled. They want to say constant current.

This driver using the 380mA chips seems the same.

I got mine in the mail today, they are tiny...

My soldering iron is way too big to even attempt it and I doubt hold my hands steady enough to hold the soldering iron anyway.

Or maybe I can find smaller tips but there isnt any electronics shops around here.

before I got an iron w/ small tip I would do tiny stuff by stripping more of the wire, putting a little blob of solder on the end of it, putting that in place and then holding the iron onto the wire as close as i could get to the blob...

and, as for pwm - i must be the luckiest budget light guy, w/ respect to pwm - i have to try to notice it and it doesn't bother me (though, I'm sure I haven't seen the worst stuff that's out there...)

I received my set of five today and didn't waste any time.

You need steady hands for soldering on to this drop-in, it's the size of a 5p coin!

I soldered the supplied wires for the LED and soldered the points to allow for memory and Hi-Med-Low sequence.

After a little sanding of the drop-in I placed it inside a Ultrafire C8.

This is all a very much first impressions basis, however the drop-in appears to be fantastic! Low is very low, I'd call it 'near moonlight', it's actually brighter than the typical 0.2L of moonlight - very useful.

Medium is a perfect brightness. Inside a C8 body you can leave medium running until the cows come home without fear of thermal issues.

High is very bright!

Tailcap Measurements

Hi: 3A
Mid: 880mA
Low: 7mA

PWM

Low: ?? - Unable to detect.
Med: 15.4khz
Hi: ?? - Unable to detect.

The PWM on medium is fantastic, this drop-in shows that PWM can work well. Not only is it of a high frequency but also a high duty cycle is implemented. I'm very sensitive to PWM and I'm unable to see evidence of PWM with my eyes.

Low leaves me scratching my head a little, as I'm unable to measure the PWM frequency, which is rather unusual. I'm guessing that the frequency used is too high for my testing method. As you can imagine, I can't see any signs of PWM with my eyes.

Building my first couple of drop-ins has been so much fun, I definitely recommend it to those that haven't done so.

I now have a neutral tinted (T6-3C) C8 and a cool white (T6 1A) C8 with will spaced modes, no flashes, moonlight mode with crazy runtimes and I am able to use all 3 modes without the annoying strobing affects of poorly implemented PWM, the likes of which is found in so many budget lights/drop-ins.

I plan to write up a more in depth write up soon, but this is all for now. :)

Is there any way to disable the modes on these drivers and make them single mode only?

The reason I ask is to use one in a light for a gun and obviously you do not want to be sending SOS messages to your quarry.

I am absolutely with you on that one. I really have to work hard to notice any modest PWM. Besides, I think my hands are shakier than what the average PWM will produce (and they're really not that shaky) so it's a moot point anyway! haha

Smelly: You could solder a small wire from the mode controller's VCC pin to it's PWM pin, then it'll be just single mode.