Hmmmm a square MCPCB? mine is round on the one I have.
EDIT: komeko , Am I missing something or is that really the centering piece that came in your TC20? Mine has a perfect round one like it should that came in the light.
Here is the LED in my TC20 as Dale mentioned in his post above after I sliced and diced it…………
And here is what the beam looks like at 20 feet on medium / High / Turbo ….(Exposure cut back a little so pictures didn’t wash out)
And here at 100 yards from gate on High and Turbo with normal settings I use on all my beamshots…….
The TLC forum has already reported that the first versions had a round tile and the newer ones have a square one. Picture from that forum:
Further shaving of the diode will not do anything, it will blow yellow and that’s it. I am waiting for a new diode 3A and then we will see how it will be.
At this point, all my flashlights have the same color as in the chart:
Everything under the BBL line is cool. H03 has a very delicate bile symptom, so small that it practically can not be seen.
I’ll see what I can do to make TC20 like it too Maybe the N4-3A diode will be what I need.
Not shave the emitter more , but get right to the very edge of the die itself and get all of the yellow off the edges of the substrate, that is where the biggest part of the yellow comes from. Mine was a yucky mustard yellow almost when I sliced the dome only , but then the tint changes considerably when the extra yellow is taken off the edges around the main die.
I just used an Exacto blade and cut straight down on all sides of the die to the substrate and then gently used the back of the Exacto blade to remove the excess phosphor around the edges , being very careful not to hit the phosphor on the die itself.
Mine is / was cool and yes the cool is much better for shaving or dedoming as a neutral will end up too warm most of the time
Rofis does not have NW, it’s just cold white and I do not like it. Of the two, I would choose MF-01 but UI is bad so I would probably change the driver on NasilM
It is not less efficient. What counts is the rate of heat dissipation on the casing, and this ensures copper and good contact (paste and pressure). The surface itself no longer matters, especially such a size difference.
Call it like you see it I guess, I sure wouldn’t power up a 70.2 on that square MCPCB. The larger round MCPCB makes more surface contact with the host body, I usually recut the emitter shelf on an L6 so it can take a 26mm MaxToch MCPCB for example, then push it to 20A or more for in excess of 9,000 lumens. Depends on how far you’re taking it of course, but I like to use maximum contact surfaces… go big or go home.
OK, I have not followed thread recently. But I see a lot of MODS that were done to improve light? I will order the TC20 CW version. What should be done for better throw, tint color, spill? OR leave as is. Anyone on here with keen knowledge or do MODS for small fee? Please advise. Thanks.
To be honest, they got me with the diamond knurling, the big diamond block knurling. I’ve got normal knurling on most everything, but only have that diamond look on one or two and I’ve liked the Catapult V5 for a long time, just never got one. So now they’ve made it compact, 26650 WITH included cell, and built in charging at 2A, utilizing the XHP-35. How could I resist? AND they’re offering the same 20% discount as on the TC20, win win either way, so while I already have plenty of general purpose style lights for out here in the country a compact thrower is a welcome addition.
I also really like diamond / pineapple knurling. I almost bought a MecArmy PT18 because of it, but the tail cap kind of turned me off.
For some reason I like the look of that knurling better on the thinner 18650 tube. It appears deeper on that one too. I’d like the V6 head on the V5 tube.