It itches me to find a pair of jumpers to connect the pairs of minus soldering pads of a quad board. With the jumpers closed all 4 LEDs are powered with jumpers open - just 2 LEDs. In my new 2x 5000K + 2x 6500K config it’d give me an easy access to 6500K, 6200K, and 5700K output. Just screw out the bezel, pop in/out the jumper(s) and put the bezel back.
I noticed today the VR16S1 I’ve been testing for a few weeks is ever so slightly too large for the cutout in my Wizard Pro, which meant it hadn’t been making any contact with the body of the light. To get it to contact the surface I had to file a tiny bit off all the edges of the MCPCB and carefully deburr everything. It’s now seated properly and making good contact. Performance isn’t a whole lot different, at least on 18350, which I assume is because the 6V emitter is very underdriven. I will have to make similar adjustments to the VR16SP4.
Posting this just to prove it actually worked before I put it out of its misery
This was mostly just very rough job to see how easy the VR16SP4 is to modify for the Wizard. Definitely not something you want to do with a populated board you care about, since the phosphor coating is just as fragile as reported. Now of course I need to order more boards…
You can rework it, just change the damaged LED only. With careful handling reflow soldering E21A is relatively easy, it takes more time though. Avoid using lead free solder whenever possible.
I actually had to reflow a couple of the LEDs already and was surprised to find it wasn’t too difficult. I only want to replace the MCPCB because the alteration I made is pretty ugly and I want extras for other lights
Clemence, do you still have the old gapless quad boards for sale? Looks like if the board is shifted so that 2 of the 4 LEDs are centered then their dies are in quite a good focus in an aspheric, even with the gap between the LEDs, the gapless board is going to be even better.
The plan is to sand and recenter the board with just 2 individually adressable LEDs, in a way that djozz did in his triple setup with the rgbw driver, so they would never operate at the same time.
Why? I am in love with the 2000K E21 (had never imagined that) and want to have it for the low modes
Clemence, are you still planning to proceed with triple boards? I really hope so. Just in case it is not too late to suggest things: it would be great to have individual addressing for color mixing.
Are you aware of Charles Wiggins dragon 2-channel driver?
I wonder if there is a alternative 16mm mcpcb that would host more than 3 Optisolii, clustered around the center point? Either 4x like those quadrix one for e21a, or 5x, cross type, or 6x = 2x3? The more the better, ideally I am dreaming of the LEDs populating the entire board and creating kind of light emitting honeycomb.
Thanks Clemence, I am aware of these. But they are 20mm sized so would not fit an aleph head which I prefer now. And the location of the pads is not ideal for a mule.
I was thinking about something like this, but was unsure about the bond, so thanks much for suggesting JBweld. Do you know of any tutorial on this subject?
and btw, when do you expect the new arrival of optisolii?
At best, I can only complete the payment to Nichia in 180622 or 180625. It’s a long holiday here. The last time I was about to complete it, Nichia couldn’t process my order because the Optisolises were out of stock. Now when they’re back, there’s this holiday.
- Almost invisible (from afar and when lit) yellow marking for enhanced aesthetic
Special solder footprint dimensions for precise LED positioning. Very easy to solder with DIY techniques. No more overflow solder - bumps which can impede optic placement.
NOTE: Ignore those erroneous guide boxes, they won’t affect the board/soldering performance. The LEDs self align perfectly.
This board is sure overkill for 757 LED family, the board thermal resistance is much lower than the LED thermal resistance itself. But with some scrapings here and there this board can be used for other high power (2 pads) LEDs as well.
NF2L757GT-F1 sm273 P9 Rfh00
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. VR21SP4 (larger version of VR16SP4)
New features:
- The closest performance to DTP copper MCPCB
- 1 Oz. copper
- Tighter LEDs spacings at 0,3mm
- Smooth backside
- 2,5mm holes can be tapped for M3x0,5 screws for alternate mounting options with thin heat sink plate.
- Diameter = 21mm
- Thickness = 2mm
Almost invisible (from afar and when lit) yellow marking for enhanced aesthetic
A quick test with VR21SP4: good news, with proper optics it can be used as a thrower. Not as throwy but decent at 8 - 10 degree hot spot (estimated).
Tested with Armytek Viking OP reflector, 37mm, and 45mm colour mixing TIR optics. Will post the beamshots if I have the time between soldering the 219B GB orders.
I will put mine in the Convoy L6 (medium to large size OP reflector) and will report back how that works. Iight convert the light to use the new Gaggaione 67mm silicone TIR optics.
