The new Jaxman E3 flashlight comes in the new year

Commercial Sellers' Spot
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The site says they now have the 3 mode version and can make the 2 mode version available for the asking. :wink:

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I’m interested in the Nichia 4000K but I’d like to know the lumen output specs, in the Aliexpress generic area of description shows: Lumen: 160

I’m hoping that’s not the max output with a 14500 cell.

I have the E2L nichia triple, the listing for that shows the lumen output for all 3 mode levels. Jaxman, please add that information for this one or post it here.

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In the picture on ali there is: 1, 60, 350 lumens.

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@jaxman, could you please make the listing on aliexpress clearer? it would benefit us all, including your sales, I imagine :smiley:

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I see where some clarification might benefit new-comers to the flashlight hobby, but for me, I know it’s made by Jaxman and that’s all I need to know… it’s gonna be good by default. :wink:

102

I learned from Jaxman that PWM is 500Hz for medium mode, which is way too low for me. Pity that this alone prevents me from buying one.

103

I hear that kind of thing a lot, how the PWM is too low or too noisy or whatever, but in the hundreds of lights I’ve had in hand over the past few years I’ve personally never found PWM to be an issue. Not once. My son has excellent hearing and he’s heard a light whine, says it sounds like some small bugs, but I couldn’t hear it unless I held it close to my ear and quite frankly, I use a light at night so I can see to do something, never have had one in my ear giving me fits. Everyone has different perceptions of what works for them, of course, just saying that for me it’s never been an issue.

If I had one that was a problem, I’d fix it… of course. Simple enough to do especially when it’s known the driver is a standard 17mm diameter.

For example, as nice as the M4 is in build it kind of bugged me that it was 2x AA in the power supply. So I built a Zener modified FET driver and put an XHP-50.2 in it. Now it uses 2 14500 cells and makes 3000 lumens, it’s really a nice light! :smiley: Richard sells these drivers, simple enough to make the swap if one simply wants to. Don’t solder? Neither did I a few years ago. Even an ornery old dog like me can learn new tricks, and here I am with what… 500 or so modded lights behind me? Simple enough…

104

I find it annoying when PWM has a frequency low enough that bugs look strobed, same with quick hand movements. I have some like this, and I hope it’s not the case with the E3 (I don’t know what is the frequency on the infringing flashlights I have)

As for drivers, while MTN drivers are cool and I have a fet+1 on my S2+, I find myself looking for these aa/14500 flashlights exactly because of their dual chemistry possibilities, and these drivers are a lot less common. To the point I wished Sofirn would sell their SF14 driver separately.

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Since Sofirn has been very forthcoming to BLF thusfar ( :+1: ), you could try asking if they will sell drivers separately.

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Thanks, it’s kind of hidden, (from my old eyes anyhow :person_facepalming: )

Do we know what battery type those lumen specs are for?

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I don’t see mention of the actual cell tested but any cell should make the specs, they say 1 hour High runtime on the Li-ion and that would mean a 700mAh cell would be pulling 700mA, virtually any cell out there can do that, and the 350 lumens supports that current pull. As long as a button top is used it should be fine. Protected cell might give length issue, don’t know. Not necessary at these power levels of course. :wink:

108

OK thanks I was wondering if the 350lm was with AA primary, but thinking now that probably wouldn’t be possible :person_facepalming:
Just figured this would have better output since most newer 14500 lights are 500-800lm.

Also I assume the 350lm rating is for XPG2, so the Nichia may be even less.

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Virtually all the 14500 lights out there that can do 500 lumens heat up very quickly. It’s like taking your Chihuahua coon hunting, not exactly the way to go. Very small lights are not typically equipped to be powerhouses, ask me how I know… :wink:

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There’s an 14500 Li-ion light out there that actually makes 800 lumens out the front? I’ve missed it? I mean, stock? Interesting… names and numbers?

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Mainly I was just curious about the specs. I’ll be fine with this output for my purpose of bedside / around the house in the middle of night / movie theater etc. For bedside it must have a tail switch.

I have a Thorfire TK05 now for other uses, nice pineapple knurl on that one BTW.

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Manufactures rated specs. The 800lm one is the Utorch UT01 (775 measured)
I own one …but because of it’s switch issues it’s pretty much unreliable to use.

Manufactures specs:

This reviewer (giorgoskok) measured 775lm on an Efest IMR:

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My Thorfire TK05 is rated 600lm:

robo819 measured 537lm on that one:

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I know it’s a larger body but it is a 14500 Li-ion light: (1400lm stock) https://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-S3-XPL-HI-1400LM-EDC-LED-Flashlight-14500-p-1037855.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN

You and I both have the Kronos BLF X5 in Copper, mine’s still stock and I’d say it does at least 800lm. I think I’ve seen what you’ve done with yours. :slight_smile:

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Ahhh, not an apples to apples comparison if you go to straight Li-ion supply line with an FET driver.

When we’re talking about a light that can do AA or Li-ion either, then your choices are more limited. I have the Utorch UT01 and the TK05 will be here tomorrow, I’ll do some checking on my lightbox and see how they do. I’ve got 2 friends with the TK05 that tell me right at 600 lumens with the XP-G3, one of these guys dropped in an XP-L V6 3D and it really upgraded the little 14500. Even with a Eneloop the beam is really nice and it’s an adequate carry light, just saw pics taken about an hour ago from both of em.

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I, uh, seem to have already de-domed an XP-G2 in my UT-01 :blush:

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Yeah the UT01 was the 800lm one I was referring to, I knew what you meant, I just added the X5 post to try and get a rise out of ya. :stuck_out_tongue:

I didn’t mention it but the Lumintop EDC05 is another AA/14500 light that lists 800lm on 14500, (400lm on AA)

Apparently the UT01 is made by Lumintop but the EDC05 doesn’t have the switch or battery length issues of the UT01. I fixed the battery issue with a ring of copper wire (“paper clip” mod) If I can’t get the switch working properly I’ll eventually just get an EDC05. http://www.lumintop.com/edc05.html

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Can’t wait to see your test results, right now the best cell I have for the UT01 is an Imren IMR 700mAh, not sure it’s high drain, Imren doesn’t list amperage specs. But it’s real bright on that cell. I’ll be ordering a couple of the Windyfires soon to try. I don’t think George stated which tint he measured in his review, mine is the 5000K, but it looks way warmer. Komeko measured it at 3789K.

I just reprogrammed the levels on it, they somehow got changed, probably went into programming trying to get the switch to work.

It seems to work okay with really hard presses, so I’m going to try the “plastic piece” mod that Komeko said cured the problem for him. Discussion : - Utorch UT01 - #128 by komeko

EDIT: I just did Komeko’s switch mod, it’s working great now! Almost too sensitive. Discussion : - Utorch UT01 - #171 by beam0

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I’d also like to swap out the emitter on my TK05, it’s on the high end of neutral, a bit too cold for me. XP-L V6 3D sounds good, I suppose that would increase the output too?

Do you know where to buy those already mounted with MCPCB? or did your friends re-flow them? I think it’s a 14mm board. Otherwise I guess I’d need to learn how to re-flow emitters, haven’t tried that yet.