The new Jaxman E3 flashlight comes in the new year

I don’t see mention of the actual cell tested but any cell should make the specs, they say 1 hour High runtime on the Li-ion and that would mean a 700mAh cell would be pulling 700mA, virtually any cell out there can do that, and the 350 lumens supports that current pull. As long as a button top is used it should be fine. Protected cell might give length issue, don’t know. Not necessary at these power levels of course. :wink:

OK thanks I was wondering if the 350lm was with AA primary, but thinking now that probably wouldn’t be possible :person_facepalming:
Just figured this would have better output since most newer 14500 lights are 500-800lm.

Also I assume the 350lm rating is for XPG2, so the Nichia may be even less.

Virtually all the 14500 lights out there that can do 500 lumens heat up very quickly. It’s like taking your Chihuahua coon hunting, not exactly the way to go. Very small lights are not typically equipped to be powerhouses, ask me how I know… :wink:

There’s an 14500 Li-ion light out there that actually makes 800 lumens out the front? I’ve missed it? I mean, stock? Interesting… names and numbers?

Mainly I was just curious about the specs. I’ll be fine with this output for my purpose of bedside / around the house in the middle of night / movie theater etc. For bedside it must have a tail switch.

I have a Thorfire TK05 now for other uses, nice pineapple knurl on that one BTW.

Manufactures rated specs. The 800lm one is the Utorch UT01 (775 measured)
I own one …but because of it’s switch issues it’s pretty much unreliable to use.

Manufactures specs:

This reviewer (giorgoskok) measured 775lm on an Efest IMR:

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My Thorfire TK05 is rated 600lm:

robo819 measured 537lm on that one:

I know it’s a larger body but it is a 14500 Li-ion light: (1400lm stock) https://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-S3-XPL-HI-1400LM-EDC-LED-Flashlight-14500-p-1037855.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN

You and I both have the Kronos BLF X5 in Copper, mine’s still stock and I’d say it does at least 800lm. I think I’ve seen what you’ve done with yours. :slight_smile:

Ahhh, not an apples to apples comparison if you go to straight Li-ion supply line with an FET driver.

When we’re talking about a light that can do AA or Li-ion either, then your choices are more limited. I have the Utorch UT01 and the TK05 will be here tomorrow, I’ll do some checking on my lightbox and see how they do. I’ve got 2 friends with the TK05 that tell me right at 600 lumens with the XP-G3, one of these guys dropped in an XP-L V6 3D and it really upgraded the little 14500. Even with a Eneloop the beam is really nice and it’s an adequate carry light, just saw pics taken about an hour ago from both of em.

I, uh, seem to have already de-domed an XP-G2 in my UT-01 :blush:

Yeah the UT01 was the 800lm one I was referring to, I knew what you meant, I just added the X5 post to try and get a rise out of ya. :stuck_out_tongue:

I didn’t mention it but the Lumintop EDC05 is another AA/14500 light that lists 800lm on 14500, (400lm on AA)

Apparently the UT01 is made by Lumintop but the EDC05 doesn’t have the switch or battery length issues of the UT01. I fixed the battery issue with a ring of copper wire (“paper clip” mod) If I can’t get the switch working properly I’ll eventually just get an EDC05. http://www.lumintop.com/edc05.html

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Can’t wait to see your test results, right now the best cell I have for the UT01 is an Imren IMR 700mAh, not sure it’s high drain, Imren doesn’t list amperage specs. But it’s real bright on that cell. I’ll be ordering a couple of the Windyfires soon to try. I don’t think George stated which tint he measured in his review, mine is the 5000K, but it looks way warmer. Komeko measured it at 3789K.

I just reprogrammed the levels on it, they somehow got changed, probably went into programming trying to get the switch to work.

It seems to work okay with really hard presses, so I’m going to try the “plastic piece” mod that Komeko said cured the problem for him. Discussion : - Utorch UT01 - #128 by komeko

EDIT: I just did Komeko’s switch mod, it’s working great now! Almost too sensitive. Discussion : - Utorch UT01 - #171 by beam0

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I’d also like to swap out the emitter on my TK05, it’s on the high end of neutral, a bit too cold for me. XP-L V6 3D sounds good, I suppose that would increase the output too?

Do you know where to buy those already mounted with MCPCB? or did your friends re-flow them? I think it’s a 14mm board. Otherwise I guess I’d need to learn how to re-flow emitters, haven’t tried that yet.

beam0, pick some Efest IMR 14500 instead the Windyfire, they will be good for high drain devices at higher Amps :wink:
MTN sells them!

I pretty much use Efest purple 14500’s exclusively, I have a few Windyfire and even AW but the Efests have always done an excellent job in my 14500 sized lights.

Only one of my two buddies swapped in the XP-L V63D, the other is waiting for me to mod mine so he can make a decision on what he wants me to do to his. Pretty sure the 3D was swapped onto the stock MCPCB, I’ll reduce a Noctigon and am thinking of slicing the dome off but will go with the 3D pretty sure. May end up building a driver and putting Anduril on it for the candlelight and lightning modes, love that firmware from Toykeeper! :smiley:

Will also look into the possibility ofusing Richards new 17mm boost driver, who knows… I could end up with the Fat Boy MT-G2 in mine! :wink:

UT01 needs button top correct? MTN has been out of stock on the button top Efest for a long time, so I was getting the Windyfire’s because they describe them as “outperforming the Efest”:

“This is one of the best ”high drain” 14500 cells available, outperforming even the venerable AW and Efest 14500 cells”
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_87&product_id=477

Windyfire lists the same discharge current as the Efest: (6.5A continuous / 9.75A pulse)

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If you guys think the Efest is better I can get the it here:
https://liionwholesale.com/collections/batteries/products/efest-imr-14500-aa-size-700mah-4-5a-li-mn-button-top-battery-wholesale-discount?variant=1306371192

Although it’s 700mAh instead of the 650mAh from MTN, I guess it’s the same? (Same discharge current as 650mAh: 6.5A / 9.75A)

I can’t find this new 17mm boost driver at MTN, can you post the link please?

Richard hasn’t released his boost driver yet, close though, it’s done well in testing so he’ll be listing it soon. :slight_smile:

I go the TK05 in the mail today, on a Windyfire fresh off the charger (first avialable 14500 I saw) it makes 579.6 at start and 508.9 at 30 seconds. The beam profile is ugly with the XP-G3 though. Jaxman’s choice of emitters make for a much better overall light without the need to modify it. :wink:

Jaxman please put a link to the E3 in the OP for our convenience. Thanks.

I have to keep searching through posts to find the link MascaratumB posted.

Thanks for the update on the 17mm boost driver.

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I don’t have one to try, does UT01 work on a flat top?
EDIT: found this answer (post #25): Discussion : - Utorch UT01 - #25 by Jerommel

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Jaxman has good tints but tend to use XPG’s instead of XPL’s, and they don’t like to drive their small lights too hard. So they end up wanting power modded. I think the E3 would be a much better overall light if it had it’s current output levels, plus an added high/turbo level of 500-700lm

Does the Jaxman E3 work with flat-top 14500s?

I have PKCell 14500 (which are flat-tops), and they work intermittently on my couple of UT01 (more often than not, the flat-top 14500 does not work, or if it worked, slight shaking the flashlight will turn it off and not work).

I don’t know I didn’t get one yet, but this makes photo makes me think maybe not?

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Thanks, looking at the + post on the driver I had a feeling flat tops could be in issue,
I’ll stick with button tops then.

hi friends all,

so many threads in so few days…I cant read and reply smoothly, it will need too much time to read every threads carefully……

the middle modes is powered by PWM which works at 500 Hz, and it will not be seen by your eyes. but maybe seen by a camera, and I think the middle mode will be seldom used in most time, so I choose PWM for a convenience. The low and high is not PWM.

Rgs