[GB ended,discussion only] CRI > 80+ NICHIA 2000K-6500K [E21A/219B/219C/319A/144A/757GT-F1(Optisolis)]

I have a Spy waiting for an Optisolis. Actually it is waiting for Arctic Alumina, which I will cover the central pad with to avoid grounding of the LED.

I just recalled that you installed some e21s to E05, didn’t you? Did you use your boards?

No E21A in E05 (yet). It’s very possible, just a simple lathe job to make the board 10mm. Still waiting for my new mini mill to arrive.

- Clemence

On the topic of extra-warm emitters, Digikey has some XTE 2200K emitters (80 CRI).

Just put one in a headlamp for night reading. The tint is very close to an incandescent filament bulb at a low setting and is very cozy, but on high modes it can be obnoxiously yellow/orange.
Mounting it on a DTP X-series board (noctigon) could possibly get it up to 2 amps or more. Maybe someone will put an XTE emitter to the test to see what they are really capable of :slight_smile:

I hope more companies start producing high powered LEDs in the 2300-2500K range. I would love to have a floody caving headlamp that can mimic the tint and CRI of a carbide headlamp.

Optisolis 3000K in H02 headlamp


And test result by x-rite colormunki photo(it is not profesional spectrometr but still…)

CCT = 2955K
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 97.3 [ R9 = 93.3 ]
R1 = 98.8 R2 = 98.0 R3 = 96.1 R4 = 95.8 R5 = 98.4 R6 = 97.8 R7 =
96.8
R8 = 96.8 R9 = 93.3 R10 = 95.8 R11 = 94.7 R12 = 94.7 R13 = 98.6 R14 =
97.3

^ thanks, very nice measurements. The datasheet gives an example of the spectrum and R-values, but no promises for the real product. This confirms that the leds are about as good as the example in the datasheet :slight_smile:

NF2W757GT-F1 Rfc00 5000k

16mm XML

AA driver
Low:7mA
Mid:100mA
High:500mA

Left Rfc00 5000K,Right XPG3 3000K 90CRI

Same driver high mode

Nice one Steel, just add sandblasted glass and it’s a perfect flooder great for headlamp.

- Clemence

Store’s update:

I have a meeting outside Bali scheduled in 1804(22-25). Any orders placed in between will be processed after 180430.

Thanks,
Clemence

Coming Soon (approximately in August):

Red, Green, Blue, and Amber E21A. The E17A already soft launched. This could be the answer for more powerful colored lighting (arrayed)
Unlike traditional color LEDs, all of them will have same forward voltage and characteristics. Thus simplify driver and configuration options.

- Clemence

Hello Clemence,

I’ve just found a 4×3535 PCB on your site, but I looked at the recommended optics section.

All listed optics seem to be for 3 emitter boards there.

Could you please update the recommendation?

(Specifically, I would consider using them in Astrolux S41 lights, and I am curious about if that would work :slight_smile: )

(Also noticed, that emitter orientations are rotated 22.5 degrees compared one to another around the board to mix the beam better for LEDs with square emitting surfaces - seem to be a nice feature)

For the same diameter optic a triple will manipulate the lights better than a quad. This means you have more control over the beam angle (if there are selection available). This is critical if you want a medium to narrow beam output. Both can give you floody beam but the quad will never give you narrower overall beam than the triple. Even those “punch” 7x super narrow optic like used in DQG tiny 26650 (7x 10mm individual) also creates very wide and bright spill. If let’s say the same 35mm optic optimized for narrow beam 3up LEDs rather than narrow beam 7up LED, the latter will have broader spill and less center beam intensity.
Depends on your application, choose quad TIR for brighter or more efficient setup. triple TIR for medium or narrow overall beam pattern.

- Clemence

Damn.
Just replace
Compatible with Carclo 10507, 10508, 10509, 10510 and 10511 optics
with
Compatible with Carclo 10610, 10611, 10612, 10613, 10621, 10622, 10623, and 10624 optics.

Oops, did I missed something here?
I thought he only asked triple vs quad optics. Now I see that my pasted text from Hank’s website didn’t include the quad optics.
Damn, thanks Kiriba-ru

- Clemence

Yup, reading email while working is not my specialty. Please ignore the optic recommendation, use what Kiriba-ru wrote above. I will change it later when I have access to PC.

- Clemence

Thank you for the clarification :slight_smile:

On the other hand, thanks Clemence for those additional details. Primarily, I’d aim for floody to super-floody beam for now.

Sorry for my disconnected answer. Those were caused by talking with two guests, setting up milling machine, reading email, and replying email at the same time. I’m not a personal assistant material by any means. :laughing:

- Clemence

No, triple, quad, 7-up…as long as the cups are the same, beam is the same. Same half-angle, same full-angle, same cd/lm.
OK, if you’re anal about it, 7-up beam will be always several mm wider than a triple. But this difference in width is constant regardless of distance and unless you’re shining at your hand doesn’t really matter.

I hope I responds right this time. Please check my post again. I meant same diameter overall optic, not the individual TIR lens used by each LED.

- Clemence

Oh. I see. Yes, that’s clear to me now.

Today, a Skilhunt H03 headlamp's emitter replacement has been completed. Clemence, thank you for sourcing the E21A for us, designing the MCPCB, and your reflow service :THUMBS-UP:

The stock XM-L2 emitter is now replaced to 4× E21A sm503-D220-L2-R9080.

Steps, what I have done:

  • The MCPCB was a little bit filed around, but then it was easy to fit in
  • I replaced the original thermal grease with Arctic Silver Ceramique 2 - I've read, that it is non-degrading over time
  • The configuration was finished by soldering the additional wires according to the figure
  • Reassembling light - optics was an easy fit over the quad array

I am generally very happy with the result, maybe I got a bit more lumen drop compared to the stock one, than I expected. However, the beam improved a lot!

With the stock emitter, I have a blue/purple ring in the far spill, which became unnoticeable as I close in to the center of the beam, but when I reach around 20 degree, it starts having some green/yellow hue (egg yolk effect).

Now with 4×E21A, I have an astoundingly even tint across the whole beam! The beam became even more floody, as the hotspot became much less pronounced, and it became square shaped, but just barely noticeably.

I think, I will get a measurement on the optic's physical dimension, and look for a better replacement. I suspect, that the internally reflecting part of that starts not enough close to the base of the board - I have seen similar problem reported for an Armytek headlamp.

In the next sample of Skilhunt H03 (which will be ordered in a few days), I will use the sm203-D160-R9050 set... I am awaiting that with excitement :-)