Dr. Meter released the LX1330B , and later the other no-name LX1330B appeared . I don’t know if the internal components and it’s calibration are the same or not .
For a DIY setup there are a few possible options but they are not simple. I am trying to find a more consistent option that is simpler.
Worst case this is what we might have to do.
I have the worst case situation setup in the GT right now with the ultra low Vf 80cri 4000k emitter. I am going to do some testing and see what the limits of the system are. I am worried that it could overdrive the emitter as it maxes out lower then P2 bin emitters.
I am testing a Texas Avenger driver for the xhp70.2. Since the GT is so large it was pointed out that we might as well give it all the power.
The stock buck driver is good for around 6A, which is good enough but also leaves a few thousand lumens on the table with a P2 bin emitter that maxes out around 10-12A (at 12V).
I plan to order a P2 emitter for testing this weekend or next week.
In the early test I am guessing it was around ~7A but I was only using laptop cells since I did not want to melt the springs. With high drain cells it would be a lot more power.
Properly setup I am guessing it will be around ~10A+ with high drain cells and bypassed springs on a P2 emitter. That should be good for over 9k lumens (possibly peaking over 10k lumens for the first few seconds).
A quick measurement on the prototype showed a slight improvement corresponding to the slight increase in output with the dome on (just under 1400m vs ~1350m at 6A on the old driver and this is with laptop cells).
So I assume with the shaved dome and a P2 emitter that the prior numbers would only be improved upon but won’t know for sure until I try it.
Either way, why hold the LED back if the light can take the heat is my thinking. The regulated runtime would be short anyways with the xhp70.2.