I hear ya… no worries at all.
I’ll stick with the LEDs only for now.
I hear ya… no worries at all.
I’ll stick with the LEDs only for now.
For US ( you pay in :money_mouth_face: PP fees 4%+0.2$ or something similar. I think PP is the best way at the moment
For US ( you pay in :money_mouth_face: PP fees 4%+0.2$ or something similar. I think PP is the best way at the moment
’K, I’ll leave the PhD math to you to work out.
I need to get some sleep now… :weary:
Order list addition:
14pcsLH351B
3pcs XP-G3
Added and ordered.
I’m interested in 15 pcs, please.
The last 13 are available.
They also offer (link is external) the Luxeon MZ 3V with 5700K 90CRI. That is a great LED! It’s very efficient for a high-cri LED, has a very low Vf, tolerates a high max current and has a perfectly even tint.
EDIT: it’s the 12V version. Sad
If they could order the 3v MZ’s,I would be interested in 3 or 4.I think others would as well.Mouser.fr lists them,but does not stock and shipping is steep.Led4Power does not stock them because Mouser does!
No big deal if not possible,but I thought I’d ask.
I’ll take 6. Thanks
Are these leds still available? I’m interested in 3 pcs, please.
Also 3 pcs of LH351B 3000K 90 CRI.
Are these leds still available? I’m interested in 3 pcs, please.
Also 3 pcs of LH351B 3000K 90 CRI.
Added
BTW: I just checked out the dimensions of this LED. The ceramic package has a thickness of 0.43mm (similar to Nichia 219C: 0.4mm). The Cree XP-L and XPL2 have a thickness of 0.58mm, the XP-G2 0.73mm. This can be important when focussing a light and when using TIR optics which seat directly on the LED package.
Sent you a PM
BTW: I just checked out the dimensions of this LED. The ceramic package has a thickness of 0.43mm (similar to Nichia 219C: 0.4mm). The Cree XP-L and XPL2 have a thickness of 0.58mm, the XP-G2 0.73mm. This can be important when focussing a light and when using TIR optics which seat directly on the LED package are used.
Yep, this is a significant issue with the 219C when the stock optic is designed to seat perfectly on an XP-L HD. Even if the dome is exposed a fraction of a mm it dramatically alters output and beam pattern, especially since the 219C is physically smaller to begin with.
All 320pcs are reserved.
All 320pcs are reserved.
That was fast
But as the Wuben TO46R didn’t suffer in output at all compared to the XP-G3 (0.73mm as well), I don’t think it’s a problem with the Samsungs. Unless there was a thicker MCPCB with wide holes that allowed the optic’s feet to sink in deeper.
Also interested in 5 LH351B
AEDe also sent me a 3000K CRI90 351B to test. It’s just as good as the 351D. Very nice tint and non visible tint shift. Here’s some measurements at 1 amp with a small OP reflector from the Reylight Pineapple.
CRI data measured from the hotspot:
I have sunken deep into this hobby, I made a Jaxman E2L triple (shorty) with the LH351D leds from the OP, with the sole purpose to see how it looks like in the Carclo 10570 optic, and to see how the tint and output compares to the other high CRI Carclo 10570 builds that I have around. Of course I did not mind it to become a nice EDC-light (it is), but that was not the purpose :person_facepalming:
Ok, some data: E2L shorty with LH351D 4000K 90+CRI leds on Jaxman DTP-board, everything thick wire and bypassed, BLF-A6 direct driver, 630nm red tail leds for the good looks.
Output at 30 seconds on a (picked for best drain) Vapcell 18350 1100mAh: 1920 (djozz- ) lumen. Current = 10A. So at max with full battery the system efficiency is ~50 lm/W which is ok for a high CRI light.
For comparison two other direct drive E2L shorties at 30 seconds:
I can not find my E2L with 219C 4000K 90CRI R9050 leds, which should be the most comparable led
The beam=good.
Compared the XP-L Hi that is often used in the 10570, the LH351D makes a wide fairly pretty round beam, no squares around the hotspot, much better despite the similar sized die. As I already noticed in my LH351D reflector light, Samsung made this led with good optical properties.
The tint=good.
Unlike the Nichia 219B V1 R9080 which has consistent tint at all currents, this LH351D starts slightly greenish at low currents (nothing ugly though), at higher current the reds join in and the tint is at its best, without the overly rosy tint of the Nichia.
Tip: do not use the stock AR-coated lens of the E2L, it kills the tint, use a common non-coated lens, like from a S2+.