djozz wrote:

skinny_tie wrote:

I recently purchased a BLF X5/X6 driver from Banggood, and it produces a bright flash when switching to low, even from off. Do they all do that?

Many different drivers do that and the electronics experts have a good explanation for the phenomenon. There are design options for drivers that prevent it. That is all I know.

Thanks djozz. I had hoped there might have been something like a firmware fix – three more of the drivers arrived this morning!

skinny_tie wrote:

djozz wrote:

skinny_tie wrote:

I recently purchased a BLF X5/X6 driver from Banggood, and it produces a bright flash when switching to low, even from off. Do they all do that?

Many different drivers do that and the electronics experts have a good explanation for the phenomenon. There are design options for drivers that prevent it. That is all I know.

Thanks djozz. I had hoped there might have been something like a firmware fix – three more of the drivers arrived this morning!

I keep reading that a light can be locked out by unscrewing the tailcap slightly because the threads are anodized.

I understand that the cell circuit for the flashlight is completed when the tailcap is fully tightened, thereby making electrical contact with the un-anodized end of the tube and un-anodized retaining ring (or whatever) of the inner tailcap.

This implies that anodization is an insulator?

If that's the case, how durable is the anodization?

That is, how much wear can anodized threads tolerate before the anodization wears away to the point that continuity is created just through the worn threads?

How rapidly does the wear progress on properly lubed threads?

Quote:

There may be a firmware fix, anyone?

keithd wrote:

My turn!

1) Can you DD an XHP70.2 with 3S/9V?

2) Driver recommendations for a max-effort Trustfire TR-J19 – running 3x XHP70.2 P2 1A (likely 2S/6V)?

I have a TR-J19 which can run either 32650 2S or 3S, with a really bad driver in it. It’s been collecting dust since I bought it, and I want to update it. It’s massively heavy so it can take a lot of heat.

Anyone?

slmjim wrote:

… how much wear can anodized threads tolerate before the anodization wears away to the point that continuity is created just through the worn threads?

How rapidly does the wear progress on properly lubed threads?

slmjim wrote:

This implies that anodization is an insulator?

If that’s the case, how durable is the anodization?

That is, how much wear can anodized threads tolerate before the anodization wears away to the point that continuity is created just through the worn threads?

How rapidly does the wear progress on properly lubed threads?

The anodisation is quite hard it has Mohs hardness of 9, 10 would be diamond. And you can have different thicknesses of it
With lube it should last therefore years.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminium_oxide

Hi all new guy here and my stupid question is what does 2SPS mean/stand for?

"Hi all new guy here and my stupid question is what does 2SPS mean/stand for?"

2S2P means 2 serial, 2 parallel, like this:
- -
- -

4S1P is 4 serial, 1 parallel, like this:
- - - -

2SPS isn't a thing in battery circuitry.

Thank you

joechina wrote:

slmjim wrote:

This implies that anodization is an insulator?

If that's the case, how durable is the anodization?

That is, how much wear can anodized threads tolerate before the anodization wears away to the point that continuity is created just through the worn threads?

How rapidly does the wear progress on properly lubed threads?

The anodisation is quite hard it has Mohs hardness of 9, 10 would be diamond. And you can have different thicknesses of it With lube it should last therefore years. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminium_oxide[/quote]

 

Thanks joechina.

Are illuminated tail caps always ON?
Will a light with a twisting tailcap lockout turn the tail led on/off?

Thanks

A lighted tailcap is on when the flashlight is off. As soon as you turn the flashlight on, the LEDs in the tailcap turn off. When you twist the flashlight tail out, the lighted tailcap turns off, and accordingly the flashlight can no longer turn on. The lighted tailcap is on the same circuit as the flashlight.

NeutralFan wrote:

A lighted tailcap is on when the flashlight is off. As soon as you turn the flashlight on, the LEDs in the tailcap turn off. When you twist the flashlight tail out, the lighted tailcap turns off, and accordingly the flashlight can no longer turn on. The lighted tailcap is on the same circuit as the flashlight.

That’s what I thought/figured.
Thanks for answering.

If I want to eliminate a thermistor, can I just connect the wires going to each end and bypass it with no resistance? I’m switching leds in my TM16GT from XPL HI to XHP35 HI. Not sure if eliminating the thermistor is such a good idea, but want to keep my options open. Since I’m going from a quad MCPCB to 4 individuals, I’d have to find a way to mount the thermistor. I could probably file down an old XPE star and mount it on there, then glue it down.

Does the protection circuit of a low voltage protected cell add resistance?

I have a protected 3000mah Thorfire 18650. If I use it in a light with a MOSFET driver am I limiting the potential output?

These protection circuits are pretty easy to remove, correct? (I’ve salvage lots of cells from power tool and laptop packs)

Thanks

Nooner wrote:

Does the protection circuit of a low voltage protected cell add resistance?

I have a protected 3000mah Thorfire 18650. If I use it in a light with a MOSFET driver am I limiting the potential output?

These protection circuits are pretty easy to remove, correct? (I’ve salvage lots of cells from power tool and laptop packs)

Thanks

I would say yes they do. You’ll get more from a non-protected cell. I’ve never had this happen myself, but I believe you can also trip the protection circuit with a FET or direct drive light. You can remove the circuit, but just be careful…all that stuff is connected really close, so it’s easy to short out with wire cutters or whatever tools you are using. You’ll most likely need to rewrap the cell when done.

Thanks WillyD

What robust tool(s) are experienced modders using to loosen sometimes very tight/chemically locked retaining rings?

slmjim wrote:

What robust tool(s) are experienced modders using to loosen sometimes very tight/chemically locked retaining rings?

I got a set of Tekton snap-ring pliers for that. Pretty good quality (I haven’t snapped the pins off yet ), excellent customer service.

Thanks lightbringer.

Why do people chew mashed potatoes?

Or grits?

Or applesauce?

slmjim wrote:

Why do people chew mashed potatoes?

Or grits?

Or applesauce?

So you don’t choke on the bones, of course.

slmjim wrote:

Why do people chew mashed potatoes?

 

Or grits?

 

Or applesauce?

Don’t forget the yogurt chewers

As a relative newcomer to this forum this has been a valuable thread for me. Both reading past posts and getting answers to questions I’ve posted. A lot of good information.

Thing is I think it would be a lot better if people stopped making jokes. It dilutes the information. If someone wanted to read past posts to see if their question has already been answered they’d have to sift through a bunch of blah blah blah.

I wasn’t going to say anything but maybe I’m not alone in this sentiment.

Anyways. Feel free to call me lame and a party pooper (or worse I don’t care). I’m a big boy. I can take it.

Thanks guys

Lol.
Ok I take it all back.
That is funny.

Nooner wrote:

As a relative newcomer to this forum this has been a valuable thread for me. Both reading past posts and getting answers to questions I’ve posted. A lot of good information.

Thing is I think it would be a lot better if people stopped making jokes. It dilutes the information. If someone wanted to read past posts to see if their question has already been answered they’d have to sift through a bunch of blah blah blah.

I wasn’t going to say anything but maybe I’m not alone in this sentiment.

Anyways. Feel free to call me lame and a party pooper (or worse I don’t care). I’m a big boy. I can take it.

Thanks guys

You might have notices some threads that has a lot of off topic chatter. That is part of what makes BLF BLF.

It’s not that I completely disagree with you but it would make everything way too serious.

Are there any lights that use 14500’s with a medium mode and a long run time? I’m trying to find a small AA sized light that can run at 30-50 lumens for as long as possible.

The problem is most of the lights in this range only last around 7-8 hours on an alkaline/nimh, but if you jump to a 14500 they just crank the brightness up in medium mode rather than providing a long run time.

I’d love to get 12-15hrs out of a small light at 30-50 lumens for camping.

For comparison, a skilhunt h03 can run for 75 hours at 20 lumens on an 18650!!!