Yep I’m in the queue too! :+1: That rainbow one is fantastic, so is the other lol.
I’d be ok with a spring to solder so I’ll have a look, thanks.
I will set up my sales topic in the next few days
Rainbow would be perfect for my colored S41S
Why doesn’t it work, do you know?
I use boards that replace the washer, so they are way more effective than on the switch board
any color combination you want
green and blue based phosphor LEDs(white, pink, ice blue) are most efficientGen one with balance resistors and trimmers 2x3 LEDs
6 LED
8 LED rainbow
Gen. 2 version has a voltage regulator and trimmers for brightness adjustment
the v2 cross pattern for trimmers are ordered
Ok…Sooo…Those weren’t turnkey so where are the lead wires supposed to be soldered to (which I’ll have to have someone else solder)???
I find this thread after just buying these
The rainbow ones look very cool.
Positive wire gets to the tube contact
negative gets to the spring
replace washer with board and just connect to to both switch connections
pinkpanda3310: led4power:….I’m don’t know if it fits S41.
I just tried it in my manker E14 (same as S41) and it does not fit.
Why doesn’t it work, do you know?
I guess it could be made to fit as it is close. Diameter is the problem, I think it would fit nicely otherwise. However, myself, I’m not willing to file down the switch nor open up the threads in the tail.
I will soon offer ILC-1 kit without brass ring at significantly lower price than assembled ILC-1, top and bottom pcbs have 16.5mm diameter , so such "ringless" ILC-1 should fit in more lights (brass ring is not really necessary, but without it switch and top pcb should be glued to prevent twisting).
Aah, that makes sense why the brass ring is there
Pulsar: pinkpanda3310: led4power:….I’m don’t know if it fits S41.
I just tried it in my manker E14 (same as S41) and it does not fit.
Why doesn’t it work, do you know?
I guess it could be made to fit as it is close. Diameter is the problem, I think it would fit nicely otherwise. However, myself, I’m not willing to file down the switch nor open up the threads in the tail.
I can’t see the images
That’s how I see them
Try again…
Did it work?
If not - it’s just a pic of some measuring calipers in the tail cap and on the switch. ID of tail cap = 18.05mm OD of switch = 18.19mm
Positive wire gets to the tube contact
negative gets to the spring
replace washer with board and just connect to to both switch connections
How’s do you get to the spring when the board the switch is mounted on, is between it?
Try again… Did it work? If not - it’s just a pic of some measuring calipers in the tail cap and on the switch. ID of tail cap = 18.05mm OD of switch = 18.19mm
I see you didn't remove kapton tape from brass ring?
Lexel:Positive wire gets to the tube contact
negative gets to the spring
replace washer with board and just connect to to both switch connectionsHow’s do you get to the spring when the board the switch is mounted on, is between it?
both contacts are on the switch
I see you didn’t remove kapton tape from brass ring?
Doh! Good eyes led4. Without the tape it measures 18.08mm. I guess I could force it but since I don’t want the switch in that light I’m still not going to …
Depending on the machining it might well fit in other E14’s / S41’s :question:
I don't have any of those lights, are tailcap parts compatible with Convoy(especially threads)?
I couldn’t tell you, I don’t have any convoy lights (yeh, I know, a blf’er without a convoy :zipper_mouth_face: )
MastyrOfPuppitz: Lexel:Positive wire gets to the tube contact
negative gets to the spring
replace washer with board and just connect to to both switch connectionsHow’s do you get to the spring when the board the switch is mounted on, is between it?
both contacts are on the switch
Can you post pics at different angles of one soldered to switch contacts?