What about using a 6 inch to 4 inch reducer on the regular lumen tube and then have a correction factor specifically for using that reducer?
That way it keeps the cost size and shipping weight down and only adds one extra piece to be used on rare occasions. The rest of the time you have the normal three and a half inch inlet and can read the lumens directly off the meter.
I have considered this as well but it would have to remain attached at all times, the calibration would change too much to be easily compensated for when it was added or removed I think.
Installing it on top would make it top heavy and I don’t think it would sit flat anymore.
Using a 6” to 3-4” 90* bend is another option I am thinking about but talk about expensive!
I will see what the specialty place has, if they don’t have it, then I don’t think I will be getting it.
Interested so put me on the list. Wouldn’t it be cheaper to just ship the diffusers and meter then we can get the pvc long radius streets and the reducer ourselves?
No, because they have to be assembled in a very particular way, then calibrated to TA’s meter (through “magic”) to give accurate results. Like he said before, even the orientation of the diffuser panels can alter the readings.
I am guessing that once he has finished construction and made all the final adjustments he will glue the pieces together to lock them into place. Perhaps with the exception of the 90 that the flashlight head goes into. He can mark the position that the 2 pieces need to be, then rotate the end 90° so it can be boxed up flat. When you get it, you rotate it back into position and be back at accurate readings.
That is my understanding of it.
Keep in mind that even different batches of pvc pipe from the same company can exist which might throw off the readings. The white pigment could differ slightly, the surface finish could differ slightly, etc… By TA doing it his way, he can compensate for all this.
I don’t think he means 5-6x the price of the entire unit…. just for that opening piece where the head goes. Correct me if I’m wrong….if so, $5-600 dollars is very expensive.
But if it’s about $50 more, id buy it.
Yes, there will most likely be some calibration needed on a per unit basis based on my past spheres. Once I have built this batch I will have a much better idea of if making a kit would be reasonable.
When I have all my work lights on my desk on the lumen meter reads 0 or maybe 1 lumen, the 1 lumen is usually getting through the opening. ~1 lumen is not something I personally care about.