Thanks! I didnât see that one earlier. It helps a lot having more than one person looking for requests.
Oh, that one is not an error. The list has the correct number (1) for kahvitahra. To check this, look in the right column of the list, which shows requests per person).
I just for the first time ever carried a side-switch EDC light in my pocket for a week (Utorch UT-01 with 4000K R9080 E21A) and although the size, output, beam, tint, and everything else is wonderful, the switch on the side is a royal pain in multiple everyday use, even though in the UT-01 it sticks out well enough to feel it. I swapped back to a tail clicky EDC (E2L shorty with BLF-A6 driver and 4000K R9050 SM407e, lighted tail) this morning and thankfully everything is back to normal: draw and click-on, instead of draw, fumble, click-on.
Morale: the design decision of the FW3A to move the e-switch to the tail is a very good one, and for me essential to make it EDC-worthy.
Morale II: please sign me up for a second FW3A, preferrably in desert tan ano :innocent:
Couldnât agree more. Side switches work OK in benign conditions, but when youâre hands are frozen, or gloved, useless.
That said, I really like my Olight S15 and On The Road M3 for EDC, but only because they have pocket clips that I have glued into place 180 degrees from the side-switches, so no difficulty finding them. Un-glued they can gradually rotate and lead to confusion. Without the clips I would be lost.
BTW, what did people think about the muggle-mode UI poll? I was thinking of doing a similar one for emitter type, if people found the poll method acceptable. Itâll need more explanation though, since the emitter tradeoffs are more complex.
Are we talking 3000 lumens out of this lamp? Sorry if I missed the output(s), but whatâs the turbo Lumens and time as well as a sustainable âhighâ lumems spec if there is one at this point? If not, a target brightness would be interesting.
The FW3A specs are vague because the emitter type hasnât even been nailed down yet. However, itâll probably do somewhere around 2000 to 4000 lumens on turbo. And the highest sustainable level at room temperature while tail-standing will probably be under 500 lumens, due to thermal concerns. The sustainable level during actual use depends on how the light is cooled⌠itâll be capable of more in cold weather than in hot weather.
I didnât vote on that poll, I just expressed my preference here (if I recall correctly)! Is it still active?
Concerning the emitters, as the option is still open, I would consider to make a poll!
BUT, before opening it, I guess the ârealâ options must be considered before making a list. Due to the availability of the LEDs, due to the original concept, due to the interaction with the driver and heatsinking, and so onâŚ
A general thing as âXP-G3â / âXP-G2â / âLuxeonâ / âXP-L HIâ⌠will probably not be enough for this âtough crowdâ (me included).
If you, TK, or the FW3A Team advance with this, I guess the âreal optionsâ (type of LED, bin, etcâŚ) must be discussed first so that we donât âdemandâ or âdaydreamâ about something that will not be possible!
My opinion of course
As an example, there is a group buy on the Wuben TO46R and TO10R that is facing some issues due to a sudden lack of the expected High-CRI LEDs. Member =the= is trying to reach a final product along with the manufacturer.
So, looking to this, the stocks or the possibility to get the emitters must be considered before even givin us âoptionsâ!
Thanks for the initiative and the constant information you´ve been giving us TK!!! :+1:
Not all of the first prototype where glued. One off the Germans disassembled the tail. The clip is hold in place by an o-ring (not in the cut away)
You clamp the outer tube to the inner tube and you clamp the clip (over a spring = o-ring) with the back piece. And on the other end you need contact to the head.
Donât know how easy it is to assemble till everything has contact. Maybe glue is away to go.