[GB ended,discussion only] CRI > 80+ NICHIA 2000K-6500K [E21A/219B/219C/319A/144A/757GT-F1(Optisolis)]

NF2W757GT-F1 Rfc00 5000k

16mm XML

AA driver
Low:7mA
Mid:100mA
High:500mA

Left Rfc00 5000K,Right XPG3 3000K 90CRI

Same driver high mode

Nice one Steel, just add sandblasted glass and it’s a perfect flooder great for headlamp.

- Clemence

Store’s update:

I have a meeting outside Bali scheduled in 1804(22-25). Any orders placed in between will be processed after 180430.

Thanks,
Clemence

Coming Soon (approximately in August):

Red, Green, Blue, and Amber E21A. The E17A already soft launched. This could be the answer for more powerful colored lighting (arrayed)
Unlike traditional color LEDs, all of them will have same forward voltage and characteristics. Thus simplify driver and configuration options.

- Clemence

Hello Clemence,

I’ve just found a 4×3535 PCB on your site, but I looked at the recommended optics section.

All listed optics seem to be for 3 emitter boards there.

Could you please update the recommendation?

(Specifically, I would consider using them in Astrolux S41 lights, and I am curious about if that would work :slight_smile: )

(Also noticed, that emitter orientations are rotated 22.5 degrees compared one to another around the board to mix the beam better for LEDs with square emitting surfaces - seem to be a nice feature)

For the same diameter optic a triple will manipulate the lights better than a quad. This means you have more control over the beam angle (if there are selection available). This is critical if you want a medium to narrow beam output. Both can give you floody beam but the quad will never give you narrower overall beam than the triple. Even those “punch” 7x super narrow optic like used in DQG tiny 26650 (7x 10mm individual) also creates very wide and bright spill. If let’s say the same 35mm optic optimized for narrow beam 3up LEDs rather than narrow beam 7up LED, the latter will have broader spill and less center beam intensity.
Depends on your application, choose quad TIR for brighter or more efficient setup. triple TIR for medium or narrow overall beam pattern.

- Clemence

Damn.
Just replace
Compatible with Carclo 10507, 10508, 10509, 10510 and 10511 optics
with
Compatible with Carclo 10610, 10611, 10612, 10613, 10621, 10622, 10623, and 10624 optics.

Oops, did I missed something here?
I thought he only asked triple vs quad optics. Now I see that my pasted text from Hank’s website didn’t include the quad optics.
Damn, thanks Kiriba-ru

- Clemence

Yup, reading email while working is not my specialty. Please ignore the optic recommendation, use what Kiriba-ru wrote above. I will change it later when I have access to PC.

- Clemence

Thank you for the clarification :slight_smile:

On the other hand, thanks Clemence for those additional details. Primarily, I’d aim for floody to super-floody beam for now.

Sorry for my disconnected answer. Those were caused by talking with two guests, setting up milling machine, reading email, and replying email at the same time. I’m not a personal assistant material by any means. :laughing:

- Clemence

No, triple, quad, 7-up…as long as the cups are the same, beam is the same. Same half-angle, same full-angle, same cd/lm.
OK, if you’re anal about it, 7-up beam will be always several mm wider than a triple. But this difference in width is constant regardless of distance and unless you’re shining at your hand doesn’t really matter.

I hope I responds right this time. Please check my post again. I meant same diameter overall optic, not the individual TIR lens used by each LED.

- Clemence

Oh. I see. Yes, that’s clear to me now.

Today, a Skilhunt H03 headlamp's emitter replacement has been completed. Clemence, thank you for sourcing the E21A for us, designing the MCPCB, and your reflow service :THUMBS-UP:

The stock XM-L2 emitter is now replaced to 4× E21A sm503-D220-L2-R9080.

Steps, what I have done:

  • The MCPCB was a little bit filed around, but then it was easy to fit in
  • I replaced the original thermal grease with Arctic Silver Ceramique 2 - I've read, that it is non-degrading over time
  • The configuration was finished by soldering the additional wires according to the figure
  • Reassembling light - optics was an easy fit over the quad array

I am generally very happy with the result, maybe I got a bit more lumen drop compared to the stock one, than I expected. However, the beam improved a lot!

With the stock emitter, I have a blue/purple ring in the far spill, which became unnoticeable as I close in to the center of the beam, but when I reach around 20 degree, it starts having some green/yellow hue (egg yolk effect).

Now with 4×E21A, I have an astoundingly even tint across the whole beam! The beam became even more floody, as the hotspot became much less pronounced, and it became square shaped, but just barely noticeably.

I think, I will get a measurement on the optic's physical dimension, and look for a better replacement. I suspect, that the internally reflecting part of that starts not enough close to the base of the board - I have seen similar problem reported for an Armytek headlamp.

In the next sample of Skilhunt H03 (which will be ordered in a few days), I will use the sm203-D160-R9050 set... I am awaiting that with excitement :-)

Nice Adam, glad you like it. In general the hotspot will always gets bigger with this quadtrix, which I find useful for headlamp application.
Beam shot(s) please =)

- Clemence

I placed the requested beamshots in an imgur album, please, take a look :-)

Beamshots available here

I added a Jaxman E2L (with default optics) to the comparison, just for further reference. I slightly decreased contrast of the images to let better examine the beam patterns.

Additional experiences:

Color rendering is lovely, to say the least. Some greens/yellows seem to be a little bit less outstanding comparing to what I have experienced with 5700K or 5000K 219C emitters, but the deep oranges and reds are literally popping out - I have never seen anything like this even with 219Cs. Cyans and deeper blues are also very good. On turbo, the light tint acquires a very slight additional purple/deep blue punch. While that is not bad at all, I still prefer to use the level one below turbo.

Regarding the low Vf: I can use a Panasonic NCR18650B button top in the emitter replaced light without any problem to get the most of mAhs out. While I noticed dropped lumens at turbo with the stock emitter even around 3.85V, I just checked the battery to read 3.46V, when I still didn't notice serious lumen drop (was able to fill the battery with 2335 mAh charge then).

I examined the stock optics, and had to admit, that there seem to be no serious flaws regarding optical efficiency, just because the emitting area is bigger, the candela/lumen ratio dropped further. I tried to find out, that the supplied optics whether has 45 degrees beam angle, or 60 degrees, but it is hard to tell, as there are not really any hard boundaries in the beam. Regardless of that, I will look for, and purchase optics with 30 degrees or less beam angle, just for any cases I would need bigger throw capability :-)

UPDATE 180517:
For those pre-orders the High CRI Tiara C1 Pro (and some Wizard), please be patient. I’m still in the making. Below is one of the problem I’m facing:

Precise drill those VR16SP4 was not as easy as I thought. The ultra hard ceramic dulls my HSS-Co end mills in a single pass!

- Clemence

Question about Nichia 219B SW45K R9080 & SW40 R9080

Do you guys think there are still demands for these LEDs? If yes then I’m thinking a committed group buy at reduced BLF price to get the last of it’s kind. These LEDs are discontinued already (you won’t find them at Nichia’s website anymore).

Please let me know….

- Clemence

I’d have at least some sw40, always wanted to try them. The number depends on the price. Thank you Clemence!