Led4power.com : LD-4 CC linear drivers, ILC-0/1 illuminated tailcaps, optics, MOSX, copper DTP MCPCBs...

Yes.

Awesome.

I need some advise for the LD-B4HV, I’m not really too technical on drivers, I can install them but don’t really know what makes them tick, therefore I have to ask some questions to make sure it will work for my application, so first I’ll give an overview about the light an my plan:

I’m upgrading a LedLenser, converting from 3C to Li-ion’s, I plan to run an XHP50.2 with 2*26650 in series (might end up using 2*21700) I have a solid brass pill with threaded connections to the head so I think it will shed heat fairly well, the driver wil be secured by retaining ring.

However the switch may be the weak link, it has a side switch (not an e-switch) but I’m not sure it’s current rating. I have a feeling it may be pretty good so I’m thinking the 4A-6A version would work. The switch works like a reverse clicky, once its fully clicked on you can do half presses (which currently only flashes the led off and on, since it’s single mode)

I’ve been looking at drivers from mtn, the choices (I thought) were a QLITE/zener mod or FET/zener mod, however after sort of deciding on the QLITE I was informed it would be better to use the MTN-MAXlp HP Buck Driver (1A-5.5A)

I was told the reason is the QLITE is a linear driver and since I’m using larger cells the difference between the input and output voltages would be too great.

I really like many of the features of this LD-B4HV, especially the adjustable current and CC/DD Enable/Disable for high. So now the questions:

  • Since this is also a linear driver, will it work good for my purpose, or will the voltage difference be too great since I’m not using smaller cells?
  • Is this also a zener mod?
  • Mode order set to Backward means It will start up on 100%?
  • LD-B4HV is linear driver, but since mosfet is not on driver's pcb, there is no problem with heat, so you can use any cells without problems.
  • LD-B4HV has LDO (smaller sleep current)
  • Yes, driver will cycle modes backward

New order.

ILC-1B

Change to 40uA per channel please.

Thanks, but then maybe then I don’t understand this at all, where is the mosfet mounted, on the led board? Is that included or I would need to buy separately? If separately do you also sell it?

OK I see it now, so for XHP50.2 I’d need your mosled board and the mosfet installed, and run 5 leads to the ledboard.

Maybe luxeon MZ is better. But this might be complicated for me right now.

Yes, B4HV has 5 wire connection, 2 for NTC, 1 for gate, and two thick wires for LED. If you want, I can solder wires on MCPCB and install XHP50.2+fet+ntc (I think I have one spare XHP50.2 somewhere).

Thanks! In that case I can put this back under consideration again. I’m not sure if it would be easier for me to solder the wires on to the mcpcb or the driver! So I’d need to decide that, please let me know your thoughts on that.

Having you install/reflow the XHP50.2+fet+ntc would be most helpful, that’s the main thing I was worried about.

Let me know if you find the XHP50.2 and what CCT, I’m needing NW around 4500-5000K. Or if there’s something else you have with similar output and beam. I’m sub’d to this thread so you can just post about it here or pm, either way is fine.

Also could you pre install the phosphor bronze spring on the driver?
And can that spring be stretched a few mm longer? (I need about 15-16mm total from driver board) or maybe add a few mm solder blob on the free end?

Thanks!

Soldering wires to mosX boards is not trivial, so I recommend that option. I have one piece of 4000K J4 XHP50.2, is that ok?

It's this LED: https://hr.mouser.com/ProductDetail/941-XHP50B00D0BJ440E

I can preinstall spring, but I don't think I have spring that long, which host is that?

Thanks, yes that LED might be OK. I have a few 4000K XML/XPL lights I like a lot them but they’re quite warm, not sure how it will be in XHP. I’m also getting your LuxeonV 4000K on 16mm for another light. The warmer tint is fine in the smaller lights but on the larger lights I prefer more towards 5000K, which is what I was leaning towards for this light, but 4000K could be fine, so I need to consider.

And yes great if you could add the wires to the mcpcb it will be very helpful.

For the spring the one listed on your store are 12mm length correct? (High current gold plated phosphor bronze spring 12x9x1mm)

So it only needs about 4mm more, can that spring be stretched a few mm longer? Then add a few mm thickness solder blob on the free end?

.
The host is a rebuild/conversion of an older Led Lenser V2 TL Tactical Light, (Made in Germany)
It looks exactly like this current one but has only one switch button:


The latest version has a side led (map reading light) built into the side of the head, reason it has the second switch.

I’ve also considered XHP35 HD CRI80 http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S026064.Cree-XHP35-HD-D4-50E-White-5000K-LED-Emitter

The Led Lenser V2 TL has a TIR (spot) optic. Maybe the xhp35 would be better suited? Heat and current for xhp50.2 could be a concern, (one reason I like your set up with the temperature sensor in the led board) although it’s a very solid built light, thick walled and tight fitting threads

I see he driver also works with XHP35 but are the voltage difference is too great? (12V-8.4V)

XHP35 is 12V led, which type and how many cells you plan to use in that light?

I’m using 2*26650, 8.4V

Then it isn’t possible to use a xhp35 with this driver.
You’ll need a boost driver for that.
You can use the xhp50.2/70.2 in 6V configuration.

4*26350 then choose 4S option for the driver.

Btw, is that even a mechanical switch? It looks like it could be an electronic switch and if that’s the case you need to find another driver anyways.

Also, if this is a 3xC cell light and you are trying to make it a 2x 26650 I dont think you should just be using longer springs to take up the room. You should either make or buy a “dummy cell” (a 0 voltage spacer)

3xC you could possibly do 4x26500’s for the XHP35…

Thanks everyone. Ok just so I understand, the driver is not boost or buck it does not change the voltage, and it’s okay to run the 6V led at 8.4V with the 2S cell config, and since 4S was suggested I assume it’s okay to run the 12V emitter at 16.8V? Are there limits for powering emitters at higher voltages than their listed/rated voltage?

  • Switch: I believe it’s a mechanical switch. You cannot do momentary presses until after the switch has been fully clicked ON, like a reverse clicky. (it’s currently single mode so after 1 full click to ON the half presses just blink the led) From my understanding of them a momentary e-switch doesn’t “click” or “latch” to ON.
  • longer spring: The longer spring isn’t for the battery length, for the battery compartment spacing (about 12-14mm) I plan to make a short dummy cell type spacer. The longer spring is for the distance between the bottom of the driver and the top of the switch, which has a center contact. The switch sits between batt+ and driver+ and occupies/seals off the forward part of the tube (like a Maglite)
  • Cell configuration: It will also fit 3x26500 for 12.6V, however 26500 seems to be nearly non-existent, MTN has some but I’m not sure what currents they can provide as they don’t list the spec. there but they may work. I’ll need to look into the 4*26350 idea and consider the costs to go that route.

Do you have an eta on when an e-switch driver will be available?

@vinte I'm currently busy with other stuff, so I can't tell eta.